• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Fork Seal replacement without compressing springs

Jorge

Member
Member
Wondering about a fork seal replacement technique I saw that does not require compressing the springs.
This technique loosens the cartridges by removing the bolt at the bottom of each leg, allowing "opening" the tube with the cartridge in one piece.
This is a link to the video:

Has anyone here tried this? How did it go? How were you able to properly tighten the screw at the bottom of the leg?

Thanks!
 
Wondering about a fork seal replacement technique I saw that does not require compressing the springs.
This technique loosens the cartridges by removing the bolt at the bottom of each leg, allowing "opening" the tube with the cartridge in one piece.
This is a link to the video:

Has anyone here tried this? How did it go? How were you able to properly tighten the screw at the bottom of the leg?

Thanks!
Too bad the guy making the video didn't actually show doing it. Basically says it can be done and showed cartridge s separated on a mat.
 
I do see an advantage to doing it this way. Your setting all stay the same. It looks easy enough. Do you have to make a tool to keep the cartridge from spinning or will an impact spin it right out?
 
That's what I wonder also...how do you keep the cartridge from turning, when loosening and when tightening.
Hope someone has 1st hand experience with this- good or bad!
 
I just now saw this. At first I thought it was brilliant and does technically work as long as the bottom bolt tightens up properly. BUT it doesn't allow for the oil that's going to leak out of the cartridge as it lays there on the ground. It's about 2 ounces, I've measured it. Plus it's dirty and should be drained. So there's no way to prime the cartridge prior to reassembly. If you could overfill the fork and let it prime itself while pumping the forks it would work, but you can't overfill the fork that much.
 
If you could overfill the fork
I don't know why I keep thinking you can't overfill. Extend the fork down and overfill by the amount in the cartridge. I think it would work in a pinch just to change seals. It may work fine so you'd never have to compress the spring again. It's worth a try. Can't hurt.
 

Attachments

  • cartridge oil.jpg
    cartridge oil.jpg
    126.4 KB · Views: 46
I don't know squat about C-14 shocks, but I just watched 2 video's.
1 was a C-14 fork seal replacement. The other was a Dave Moss Dump and Run.

Fork Seal

Dump and Run;

Like I sed; I don't know squat, but learned a lot from watching the video's.
I think you could use the "oil volume method" that Dave Moss used and do the " Fork Seal replacement without compressing springs". He pumps the oil into the cartridge pretty easily.

But the "Fork Seal Video" makes it look relatively EZ to make a tool and just compress the springs. So I think I'd use that method.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
I personally don't care for either of those methods simply because you can't clean the accumulated sludge out of the bottom of the fork. The first time I took mine apart at about 25k miles I had to scrape the sludge off the bottom and especially at the corner of the bottom where it was 1/8inch thick. The picture shows it nice and shiny. That black spot in the middle is the bolt hole that holds the cartridge to the bottom of the tube. The picture of the oil is much later probably 2019, and that is the amount of aluminum flakes after a few years. The original came out black and thick with sludge in the bottom. I suppose if you flush yearly you could do the dump and run.
 

Attachments

  • 20190805_162223.jpg
    20190805_162223.jpg
    101.7 KB · Views: 57
  • 20190805_161834.jpg
    20190805_161834.jpg
    110.7 KB · Views: 57
I don't know squat about C-14 shocks, but I just watched 2 video's.
1 was a C-14 fork seal replacement. The other was a Dave Moss Dump and Run.

Fork Seal

Dump and Run;

Like I sed; I don't know squat, but learned a lot from watching the video's.
I think you could use the "oil volume method" that Dave Moss used and do the " Fork Seal replacement without compressing springs". He pumps the oil into the cartridge pretty easily.

But the "Fork Seal Video" makes it look relatively EZ to make a tool and just compress the springs. So I think I'd use that method.

Ride safe, Ted
Fork seals are pretty easy I think. I bought the kit from traxion. Comes with a tool to set fluid level to .
 
Top