2014 Concours Front Fork Bolt Stripped

[blockmasterII]

Hi Everyone,

I have a serious issue, I managed to first strip my front caliper bolt, then to make things worse when I attempted to extract the bolt with a hammer drill the tool broke off inside the striped bolt head. So, has anyone by chance screwed up this bad and if so or not could you provide some tip as to how I can remove the bolt?

Thanks,
Donald

 

[Bud]

Weld a nut to the exposed head.

 

[chrismpero]

... or a twist lock socket. As it grabs the outside of the screw it tightens up. Like an EZ-out but on the outside not the inside.

 

[Konehead34]

Buddy did this on his c14, so dont feel bad it happens alot. He cut the head off being careful not to damage the caliber. He slid the caliper off and then extracted the remaining stud with vise grips. Apply some warming heat to the area the studs threads into first to break the loctite bond..

He replaced them with hex cap bolts..

 

[laker9142]

You could drill the head off rather than cut. And then do as kone head said. The broken tool bit should come out with some hammer and chisel work. A cheap carbide tipped drill might get the tool bit out also. The guy I know that did this was able to turn the bolt out with his fingers after the head was drilled off. Cutting the head off would obviously work But I'd be afraid of damaging the caliper

 

[jwh20]

Those bolts are made of some sort of cheese. They strip out very easily. I drill the head off so you can remove the caliper and then you can grab onto the remaining part with some vice grip type pliers and get it out.

When you re-assemble, use some anti-sieze so this doesn't happen again.

 

[freebird6]

Curious about this. Anti seize for sure. Any thought to replacing with a different supplier bolt or re order stock bolts?

 

[Konehead34]

See my post #4. Hex cap bolts...

 

[freebird6]

See my post #4. Hex cap bolts...

I saw that but I am not sure of grade and source. Figured we had enough engineers here who could direct me to the right product.

 

[Bud]

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[laker9142]

This is the only one I see of all the Mcmaster offerings that fit. The hi strength stainless are too small in diameter. And the blue dyed ones are only course thread. I personally have never had a problem with the Kawasaki ones. Nice high strength stainless. I have replaced them once in probably about 30 removals, and I keep a set in reserve if one starts looking like its rounding out. Dont use an impact or overtighten, and all is good. If someone other yourself is working on it then all bets are off.

The black oxided ones shown will rust but will be hard to round out the hex. Although some dummy could easily overtighten to point of stripping threads.

 

[Fred H.]

Drill off the head with a drill bit slightly larger than the diameter of the shank of the bolt. Stop drilling when you get far enough in that the head will come off.

 

[connie_rider]

I don't know length but think I'd go with 316.
Guessing at 60 mm length....

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

92290A544	3.12
Super-Corrosion-Resistant 316 Stainless Steel Socket Head Screw, M10 x 1.5 mm Thread, 60 mm Long Packs of

 

[laker9142]

Length is 60 as shown. 316 is soft and will stretch easily. Also they are not offered in 1.25mm pitch

 

[lrbuck]

If drilling the head, cobalt bits are not much more money.

Larry