3 drops in 3 days

[javmcs6719]

I’ve been riding for 2 years and I hadn’t dropped my last two bikes but I dropped my C14 three times in three days…

Why? Combination of rookie mistakes and my short inseam for such a tall seat height.

First drop was on 12-10-2024. The day after I got my bike back from the shop after having its valves adjusted, throttle body synced, new tires put on, and I had my suspension adjusted. This drop I attribute to a combination of my short legs and the stiffer rear suspension which I was not used to yet. I was backing out of my driveway which is on a slope and when I hit the dip where my driveway ends and the street begins my rear end bounced and I lost my footing. The bike fell over on the right side and I was not able to stop it. Damn I was so embarrassed. After I picked it up the damage wasn’t horrible but still noticeable. My right back cover got scraped, my lower black cowling got scuffed, my front ebony cowling under the turn signal and Kawasaki badge got deep scratches, and my mirror assembly got scraped. Nothing broken though! lol. I thought “Heck I can live with this for now.

Then fast forward to 12/12/24 which is two days later and I dropped her again! Twice!

I was turning right in front of my house and stopped abruptly with the wheel turned to the right using the front brakes. Bike went down on its right side once again and this time I went down with it. Dumb mistake on my part to stop like that when turning. On my other bikes when I did that I was able to put my foot down and hold the bike from falling but the Connie is just too tall for me and unforgiving. Bad habit. Lesson learned. Rear brake when slowing down to a stop with the wheel turned from now on. Anyways I picked up the bike without first flipping up the kickstand… once upright I leaned over to flip up the kickstand but guess what… the bike now fell over on the left side, the pristine side! What a terrible day I was having over easily avoidable mistakes. I guess I just wasn’t thinking straight that day. Picked up the bike once again and took it for a spin before my neighbors caught on to my stupidity. Same damage on left side now that I had on the right side. At least now the bike is symmetrical right?

Already ordered a new left mirror, left bag cover, left lower cowling, just need the left and right front ebony cowling, right lower cowling, right bag cover, and right mirror to make her pristine again ugh. Those parts aren’t cheap, if anyone knows of anyone selling them please let me know! I have a 2012 model.

The cowlings and mirrors are around 200 each new and the right bag cover is 400 new. I may have a buddy that paints just use filler and sand then paint my damage parts. He said he will charge me 300 plus the paint.

Also looking for crash bar recommendations.

 

[javmcs6719]

First drop


Second and Third drops

 

[Bud]

When you have a long list of parts, I learned from another member that you will save a ton of money if you will buy your parts from Germany.

That darned turkey

I was on my way to Walmart when a turkey decided to run out in the road and into the side of my 14. I wasn't in a situation to stand on the brakes or swerve as it was a relatively busy two lane state highway. The speed limit was 45. I was not speeding. All was fine except the bike. Markel is...

forum.concours.org

 

[Konehead34]

I’ve been riding for 2 years and I hadn’t dropped my last two bikes but I dropped my C14 three times in three days…

Why? Combination of rookie mistakes and my short inseam for such a tall seat height.

First drop was on 12-10-2024. The day after I got my bike back from the shop after having its valves adjusted, throttle body synced, new tires put on, and I had my suspension adjusted. This drop I attribute to a combination of my short legs and the stiffer rear suspension which I was not used to yet. I was backing out of my driveway which is on a slope and when I hit the dip where my driveway ends and the street begins my rear end bounced and I lost my footing. The bike fell over on the right side and I was not able to stop it. Damn I was so embarrassed. After I picked it up the damage wasn’t horrible but still noticeable. My right back cover got scraped, my lower black cowling got scuffed, my front ebony cowling under the turn signal and Kawasaki badge got deep scratches, and my mirror assembly got scraped. Nothing broken though! lol. I thought “Heck I can live with this for now.

Then fast forward to 12/12/24 which is two days later and I dropped her again! Twice!

I was turning right in front of my house and stopped abruptly with the wheel turned to the right using the front brakes. Bike went down on its right side once again and this time I went down with it. Dumb mistake on my part to stop like that when turning. On my other bikes when I did that I was able to put my foot down and hold the bike from falling but the Connie is just too tall for me and unforgiving. Bad habit. Lesson learned. Rear brake when slowing down to a stop with the wheel turned from now on. Anyways I picked up the bike without first flipping up the kickstand… once upright I leaned over to flip up the kickstand but guess what… the bike now fell over on the left side, the pristine side! What a terrible day I was having over easily avoidable mistakes. I guess I just wasn’t thinking straight that day. Picked up the bike once again and took it for a spin before my neighbors caught on to my stupidity. Same damage on left side now that I had on the right side. At least now the bike is symmetrical right?

Already ordered a new left mirror, left bag cover, left lower cowling, just need the left and right front ebony cowling, right lower cowling, right bag cover, and right mirror to make her pristine again ugh. Those parts aren’t cheap, if anyone knows of anyone selling them please let me know! I have a 2012 model.

The cowlings and mirrors are around 200 each new and the right bag cover is 400 new. I may have a buddy that paints just use filler and sand then paint my damage parts. He said he will charge me 300 plus the paint.

Also looking for crash bar recommendations.

View attachment 40605

View attachment 40606
View attachment 40607View attachment 40608

T-rex for front and rear crash protection. Occasionally a set of canyon cages comes up for sale as well as those God aweful ugly police cages....check eBay for parts and the older cages.

As ted mentioned on ur other thread lowering links would help. You'll lose the center stand. Sergeant makes a low seat but hard as a rock. Corbin 2 piece seat was lower for me BUTT. Pun intended, as hard as a rock.

 

[Murph]

I dropped the Top Block bars about mid year, if there is enough interest I will look at getting them back on the shelve.

 

[Daboo]

Crash bars will help keep the damage down.

Just a thought for you to consider...in those three drops, did you hit the front brake?

Chris

 

[javmcs6719]

I dropped the Top Block bars about mid year, if there is enough interest I will look at getting them back on the shelve.

Are they these?



It shows them as available to purchase

 

[javmcs6719]

T-rex for front and rear crash protection. Occasionally a set of canyon cages comes up for sale as well as those God aweful ugly police cages....check eBay for parts and the older cages.

As ted mentioned on ur other thread lowering links would help. You'll lose the center stand. Sergeant makes a low seat but hard as a rock. Corbin 2 piece seat was lower for me BUTT. Pun intended, as hard as a rock.

I want to get ones that won’t scrape when leaning hard. I was going to get the T-Rex engine guards but I read that some members have been scraping them on turns which scares me.

 

[javmcs6719]

Crash bars will help keep the damage down.

Just a thought for you to consider...in those three drops, did you hit the front brake?

Chris

Yes sir on the 2nd drop

 

[Daboo]

I want to get ones that won’t scrape when leaning hard. I was going to get the T-Rex engine guards but I read that some members have been scraping them on turns which scares me.

Yes sir on the 2nd drop

There's also R&G for crash bars and probably more. I'd look at the damage you have now, and then chose what crash bars will prevent that from happening again. As for the crash bars touching when leaning hard...whoever is doing that is probably racing on public roads...or overcommitted going into a turn.

I bought crash bars for my XR. Some of the choices protected only the engine. Well, that was dumb. If you look at the front of the bike, you can see that the only way the engine gets damaged is if the fairing is totally destroyed. So I bought some crash bars from Heed in Poland for about the same price as those made to only protect the engine itself. I love them. The shipping time was really fast, despite coming from Poland.

As to the second drop...physics says that no one can stop that drop from happening. If you hit the front brake and your front wheel is slightly turned...unless you've learned to feather that brake...you're going over and your next thought will be as you look up to the sky.

Chris

 

[2andblue]

I’ve been riding for 2 years and I hadn’t dropped my last two bikes but I dropped my C14 three times in three days…

Why? Combination of rookie mistakes and my short inseam for such a tall seat height.

First drop was on 12-10-2024. The day after I got my bike back from the shop after having its valves adjusted, throttle body synced, new tires put on, and I had my suspension adjusted. This drop I attribute to a combination of my short legs and the stiffer rear suspension which I was not used to yet. I was backing out of my driveway which is on a slope and when I hit the dip where my driveway ends and the street begins my rear end bounced and I lost my footing. The bike fell over on the right side and I was not able to stop it. Damn I was so embarrassed. After I picked it up the damage wasn’t horrible but still noticeable. My right back cover got scraped, my lower black cowling got scuffed, my front ebony cowling under the turn signal and Kawasaki badge got deep scratches, and my mirror assembly got scraped. Nothing broken though! lol. I thought “Heck I can live with this for now.

Then fast forward to 12/12/24 which is two days later and I dropped her again! Twice!

I was turning right in front of my house and stopped abruptly with the wheel turned to the right using the front brakes. Bike went down on its right side once again and this time I went down with it. Dumb mistake on my part to stop like that when turning. On my other bikes when I did that I was able to put my foot down and hold the bike from falling but the Connie is just too tall for me and unforgiving. Bad habit. Lesson learned. Rear brake when slowing down to a stop with the wheel turned from now on. Anyways I picked up the bike without first flipping up the kickstand… once upright I leaned over to flip up the kickstand but guess what… the bike now fell over on the left side, the pristine side! What a terrible day I was having over easily avoidable mistakes. I guess I just wasn’t thinking straight that day. Picked up the bike once again and took it for a spin before my neighbors caught on to my stupidity. Same damage on left side now that I had on the right side. At least now the bike is symmetrical right?

Already ordered a new left mirror, left bag cover, left lower cowling, just need the left and right front ebony cowling, right lower cowling, right bag cover, and right mirror to make her pristine again ugh. Those parts aren’t cheap, if anyone knows of anyone selling them please let me know! I have a 2012 model.

The cowlings and mirrors are around 200 each new and the right bag cover is 400 new. I may have a buddy that paints just use filler and sand then paint my damage parts. He said he will charge me 300 plus the paint.

Also looking for crash bar recommendations.

View attachment 40605

View attachment 40606
View attachment 40607View attachment 40608

Thank You for sharing this experience and sorry to hear of your challenging moment on your new to you machine. Good job wearing your gear and staying protected, the first or second drop from a mounted position cold lead to injury fairly easily to the unprotected rider.

Please fill out the CDA application here, you'll receive your own CDA# that you can add to your signature, purchase some CDA swag with your # insignia to sport proudly OR you can ban the number from your memory forever... LOL We have all been here at one moment or another, not all days are perfect.

As a follow-up is there a good sized ridge where the road meets the apron of the driveway - meaning crossing from road to apron there is a location whereas the front and rear tires elevate the clearance and thus the rider's distance to the ground? I have been on a couple rides whereas this has been the culprit for some folks, they learned to identify these risk areas and stop before or after this danger area and always be moving through this specific location fully balanced as their feet were not touching.

Again it stinks - but all good lessons learned.

Wayne, Carol & Blue

 

[javmcs6719]

There's also R&G for crash bars and probably more. I'd look at the damage you have now, and then chose what crash bars will prevent that from happening again. As for the crash bars touching when leaning hard...whoever is doing that is probably racing on public roads...or overcommitted going into a turn.

I bought crash bars for my XR. Some of the choices protected only the engine. Well, that was dumb. If you look at the front of the bike, you can see that the only way the engine gets damaged is if the fairing is totally destroyed. So I bought some crash bars from Heed in Poland for about the same price as those made to only protect the engine itself. I love them. The shipping time was really fast, despite coming from Poland.

As to the second drop...physics says that no one can stop that drop from happening. If you hit the front brake and your front wheel is slightly turned...unless you've learned to feather that brake...you're going over and your next thought will be as you look up to the sky.

Chris

Definitely a lesson learned to cut out bad braking habits on a bike this top heavy and high.

 

[javmcs6719]

Thank You for sharing this experience and sorry to hear of your challenging moment on your new to you machine. Good job wearing your gear and staying protected, the first or second drop from a mounted position cold lead to injury fairly easily to the unprotected rider.

Please fill out the CDA application here, you'll receive your own CDA# that you can add to your signature, purchase some CDA swag with your # insignia to sport proudly OR you can ban the number from your memory forever... LOL We have all been here at one moment or another, not all days are perfect.

As a follow-up is there a good sized ridge where the road meets the apron of the driveway - meaning crossing from road to apron there is a location whereas the front and rear tires elevate the clearance and thus the rider's distance to the ground? I have been on a couple rides whereas this has been the culprit for some folks, they learned to identify these risk areas and stop before or after this danger area and always be moving through this specific location fully balanced as their feet were not touching.

Again it stinks - but all good lessons learned.

Wayne, Carol & Blue

That’s good advice thank you. I have to watch the terrain and make better decisions. I sent in my application

 

[2andblue]

@javmcs6719 You have been awarded CDA # 579 and entered permanently into the CDA scroll after the 578 that have come before you.

Thank You for sharing your experience as it is another reminder of roadway irregularities that can contribute to offsetting footing, etc. For what it is worth, I definitely would not be backing my machine over that dip - I would manage the turnaround uphill on even ground (even if at an angle) and cross that area under power of course after verifying an open roadway.

Glad you remain unhurt and that your C14 is as steady after the 3 drops as before - these machines are strong.

Welcome to CDA club - BTW I am in here with you!

Wayne, Carol & Blue

 

[javmcs6719]

@javmcs6719 You have been awarded CDA # 579 and entered permanently into the CDA scroll after the 578 that have come before you.

Thank You for sharing your experience as it is another reminder of roadway irregularities that can contribute to offsetting footing, etc. For what it is worth, I definitely would not be backing my machine over that dip - I would manage the turnaround uphill on even ground (even if at an angle) and cross that area under power of course after verifying an open roadway.

Glad you remain unhurt and that your C14 is as steady after the 3 drops as before - these machines are strong.

Welcome to CDA club - BTW I am in here with you!

Wayne, Carol & Blue

Thank you and yes I’m going to see about turning the bike around inside the garage before leaving my house from now on! Lol

 

[Konehead34]

I want to get ones that won’t scrape when leaning hard. I was going to get the T-Rex engine guards but I read that some members have been scraping them on turns which scares me.

I don't recall anybody touching down the trex crash bars. The only aftermarket item I recall folks have an issue with was the AST footpeg kit. At extreme lean angles a couple guys made contact. I dont think u can get that far over on the trex crash bars unless ur name is ROSSI...

 

[Bud]

I don't recall anybody touching down the trex crash bars. The only aftermarket item I recall folks have an issue with was the AST footpeg kit. At extreme lean angles a couple guys made contact. I dont think u can get that far over on the trex crash bars unless ur name is ROSSI...

I got my set because the previous owner must have been Roger Hayden. He touched down on the right side enough to irritate him so he listed a full set and I got a good deal. I'm happy.

 

[javmcs6719]

I don't recall anybody touching down the trex crash bars. The only aftermarket item I recall folks have an issue with was the AST footpeg kit. At extreme lean angles a couple guys made contact. I dont think u can get that far over on the trex crash bars unless ur name is ROSSI...

I’m going to go ahead and place the order for them but I’m going to wait until the 24th that’s when they go on sale for 10% off. I’m hoping they are still in stock by then!

 

[Murph]

Are they these?

Yes sir,

 

[turbojoe78]

I run the 190 / 55 rear tire and have the Muzzy lowering links that lower the back 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" and raised the forks in the triples 1-3/8". (ZX14 forks)

At 190lbs I can still center stand the bike with nothing under the back tire. I'm 5'-9" with 32" inseam and can fully flat foot with the Sargent low seat, and almost flat foot with the Seth Lamm seat.

Only one drop for me, trying to do a U-turn on a small road ... there may have been a Mai Tai or so involved. Canyon Cages saved the bike

 

[javmcs6719]

I run the 190 / 55 rear tire and have the Muzzy lowering links that lower the back 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" and raised the forks in the triples 1-3/8". (ZX14 forks)

At 190lbs I can still center stand the bike with nothing under the back tire. I'm 5'-9" with 32" inseam and can fully flat foot with the Sargent low seat, and almost flat foot with the Seth Lamm seat.

Only one drop for me, trying to do a U-turn on a small road ... there may have been a Mai Tai or so involved. Canyon Cages saved the bike

When you lowered the front, did you need to adjust it extend the cables or lines? I have 2” risers and I’m unsure if I will have to mess with the lines or cables if I lower the front

 

[connie_rider]

When you lowered the front, did you need to adjust it extend the cables or lines? I have 2” risers and I’m unsure if I will have to mess with the lines or cables if I lower the front

Lowering the front "shortens" the distance from the handlebars to the front brakes.
ie; It will not cause issues with the brake lines.

Because of clearance issues with the fork tubes and handlebar's, you can only slide the forks up approx. 3/4"-1".
(With that little drop in the front the geometry of the bike will not be identical to stock. (but it is closer than NOT lowering the front).
Bottom line, it would be best to lower the front at the same time you lower the rear.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[javmcs6719]

Lowering the front "shortens" the distance from the handlebars to the front brakes.
ie; It will not cause issues with the brake lines.

Because of clearance issues with the fork tubes and handlebar's, you can only slide the forks up approx. 3/4"-1".
(So the geometry of the bike will not be identical to stock. (but it is closer than NOT lowering the front).
Bottom line, it would be best to lower the front at the same time you lower the rear.

Ride safe, Ted

Perhaps I can alleviate that by going from the stock 50 ratio to 55 for the rear tire next time

 

[connie_rider]

Yes, the 55 would help raise the bike and increase the clearance. But would be an issue now so do it only after you lower the bike.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[gsun]

I’m have a 29” inseam so I get it. I’m used the Muzzy lowering links for a 1 1/2” drop. I kept a front and rear ramp that I made for when I wanted to use the centre stand. Even made a small version to put in the top box when on the road. raised the forks 7/8” as the math showed. I had to put on one inch risers as the forks hit the handle bars. I had Seth Laam do a seat for me and lowered me another inch or so. Solved the problem. I could flat foot if I slid forward on the seat at a stop.
When i applied for my CDA number, there was nobody handing out numbers. the person either didn’t want to do it or nobody stepped in. I tried for a long time. gave up and awarded myself a number! it’s 560. Hipped nobody minds if they have the same number!

 

[javmcs6719]

I’m have a 29” inseam so I get it. I’m used the Muzzy lowering links for a 1 1/2” drop. I kept a front and rear ramp that I made for when I wanted to use the centre stand. Even made a small version to put in the top box when on the road. raised the forks 7/8” as the math showed. I had to put on one inch risers as the forks hit the handle bars. I had Seth Laam do a seat for me and lowered me another inch or so. Solved the problem. I could flat foot if I slid forward on the seat at a stop.
When i applied for my CDA number, there was nobody handing out numbers. the person either didn’t want to do it or nobody stepped in. I tried for a long time. gave up and awarded myself a number! it’s 560. Hipped nobody minds if they have the same number!

That’s pretty cool! I haven’t dropped mine yet since those two awful days. Knock on wood. I’m just being very careful about the terrain and my footing when stopping now. I went ahead and bought the T-Rex engine and bag guards but am going to hold off on installing them until I get my replacement fairings and bag lids from Japan. I am hoping to just be able to adapt and only stand on one foot instead of lowering it.

Have you found any limitations with having it lowered? Any scraping when leaning hard?

 

[2andblue]

I’m have a 29” inseam so I get it. I’m used the Muzzy lowering links for a 1 1/2” drop. I kept a front and rear ramp that I made for when I wanted to use the centre stand. Even made a small version to put in the top box when on the road. raised the forks 7/8” as the math showed. I had to put on one inch risers as the forks hit the handle bars. I had Seth Laam do a seat for me and lowered me another inch or so. Solved the problem. I could flat foot if I slid forward on the seat at a stop.
When i applied for my CDA number, there was nobody handing out numbers. the person either didn’t want to do it or nobody stepped in. I tried for a long time. gave up and awarded myself a number! it’s 560. Hipped nobody minds if they have the same number!

@gsun please submit your CDA form with your drop story and I’ll be certain you get your very own CDA #.

You’ve gone through some extensive rework of the machine to redo the machine’s height and geometry - nice to know it all worked out for you.

For your effort let’s hear the drop details and get you your #.

Wayne, Carol & Blue

 

[connie_rider]

Here is my bike at the track day in Florida. It's been lowered about 1".
I'm not Roger Racer, but I pushed it pretty hard without dragging.

Part of not dragging is setting up the suspension correctly etc.
& My bike also has shortened pegs on it. (the shorter pegs allow more lean)
** The biggest part of not dragging things is how a person uses weight transfer.
I'm doing a pretty bad job of that in these images but I'm learning.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[gsun]

That’s pretty cool! I haven’t dropped mine yet since those two awful days. Knock on wood. I’m just being very careful about the terrain and my footing when stopping now. I went ahead and bought the T-Rex engine and bag guards but am going to hold off on installing them until I get my replacement fairings and bag lids from Japan. I am hoping to just be able to adapt and only stand on one foot instead of lowering it.

Have you found any limitations with having it lowered? Any scraping when leaning hard?

No problems but I am not a racer. Still had chicken strips.

 

[gsun]

That’s pretty cool! I haven’t dropped mine yet since those two awful days. Knock on wood. I’m just being very careful about the terrain and my footing when stopping now. I went ahead and bought the T-Rex engine and bag guards but am going to hold off on installing them until I get my replacement fairings and bag lids from Japan. I am hoping to just be able to adapt and only stand on one foot instead of lowering it.

Have you found any limitations with having it lowered? Any scraping when leaning hard?

No problems but I am not a racer. I still had chicken strips.

 

[Jorge]

Javier, these beasts have a LOT of lean angle.
Yes, by lowering you lose some less angle, but the week still be plenty left. As Ted mentioned, how you use your body helps keep the peg feelers off the road.
I think my brother may be built similarly to you (5'9", ~29" inseam), and he seems to do OK with his C14.
I think you will do fine either way.