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7th gear mod

slybonesjesse

Sport Tourer
For those who followed my belly pan thread, I had an oil leak and was just trying to live with the leak, and leave the belly pan off. -- Mostly since it was the bevel drive gearcase gasket and I new it would be a project to get that replaced. When I finally got around to getting it done I chose to do the 7th gear mod and install a Factory Pro shift kit at the same time. The 7th gear unit comes from Steve not only updated with the new gears, but rebuilt as needed and with a new gasket. It also looked freshly painted and the works. A complete assy ready to go. Installation is a reasonably good size project in that there are plenty of steps. Not an very hard project, but time consuming as there is a lot to do. I was very nervious at first about trying to tackle this job. But now that its out of the way, I can say its not near as hard as I though. I was worried about the swingarm and driveshaft part. Turns out these are easy. Overall I would say that if you have removed the rear tire before, messed with rear shock before, then you can do all that is necessary in the back end. The swingarm and driveshaft are not any harder. If you can remove the plastic up front and adjust your own valves, then you can also do the water pump, clutch slave, bevel drive gearcase, etc. None of this is any harder. Only makes a bigger mess getting coolant all over the place. Initial ride reports would be broken into a few parts. On the back roads around the house and in town, I will definitely be using 3rd a lot more where I used 4th before. Before I used 3rd and 4th. Now you really have to go 45mph plus to want to use 4th. That I recall 3rd used to be pretty dang close to 1:1. If I was going 35mph 3500 rpms. 40mph, 4000rpms. Now 35mph yields a tick over 3000 and 40mph is more like 3600. Upshift to 4th at 40mph and the bike accelerates to 45mph. I couldnt seem to ride that slow in 4th. I guess I am just not used to it yet. On the freeway I cruised along at 70 and it seems like about 400rpm drop. Those gear charts show 4200RPM at 70 for a stock tire Connie, and with the wings tires I ran about 4100. Now it seems more like around 3700 range for 70. The lower RPMs on the freeway really do help reduce noise and buzz. For everything above 70mph this makes a nice difference. On the gearing charts 80mph is 4800 rpms with the stock rear tire. With the 7th gear unit and wing tires I was around 4250 range. This thing is now running 80mph at a tick more rpms than I used to go 70mph. This thing purrs down the freeway at 80. I found my self more than once merging into traffic going a little faster than I thought. The Connie accelerates down the freeway on-ramps quite nice, except now 5th is all most as fast as 6th was before. Even with the wing tires its not quite as fast. 4100 at 70 before in sixth. 4500 in 5th at 70 now ( versus like 4900 before ). I was used to a certain feel and sound of the engine, etc. Now that has to be relearned. Zipping down the on-ramp at that same sound and feel is now faster. In 6th freeway roll-ons dont seem as snappy as before. But you are also starting from lower rpms. While you dont gain rpms as fast, you are traveling faster for those revs. So it could be all equaling out. I have no measurements. Still its nothing that a shift to 5th wont fix. 5th on the freeway still pulls nicely, better than 6th gear used to, but your going almost as fast. Passing power is not a problem. I recall early adpoters of the 7th gear claiming the bike accelerates just as good and your going faster. And the critics saying that can't be so, that the gear ratio change has to slow down acceleration everthing else being equal. -- My opinion would be that while the critics may technically be correct, from a practical perspective I'll side with the group that says your just going faster. Feels good to me. 2003 Concours, 46K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Nice write up thanks ---------------------------------- I will answer any question. It is up to you to figure out if I should have.
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<p align="left"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20211686@N05/">My Photos<br
 
Since the first time I've heard about it, I was much intrigued by the 7th gear mod. For 15 years before my '05 Connie, I rode on Honda ST1100s and I liked very much the relaxed purr of the engine. It's much different on the Connie, which I plan to keep for a long time because I see no replacement (and no C14) to my liking, but that's another story.... Slybones experience is pretty convincing: time consuming but no big hassle and great reward. Steve in Sunny Fla estimates 8 hours in a previous discussion to do the conversion (probably after doing 10 or 20 of them....) Even if it takes 18 or 24 hours for us wannabe mechanics, the reward seems to be be great ! Thanks Slybones for this excellent and informative piece !
 
It's a great mod. I've done it a few times, here's some pics. http://good-times.webshots.com/album/568391154FybMyH Roger ('07 Wee Strom) COG 5903 Virginia Beach, VA
 
Well, I'd a look at my Connie, I checked the OEM manual, the Clymer manual, the pics posted by Roger and now, I'm not so sure I want to undertake this big, big, big job ! But I WANT the 7th gear mod ! Do I have to remove the shock and the whole suspension linkage and not just the 2 bolts from the tie rods to the swing arm? Can the water pump be removed without disconnecting the hose & the pipe and just tied out of the way? What are the short cuts that are worthwhile and can really save time? I need advice from the experts ! Thanks.
 
Personally, having done this job several times, I've found that no real shortcuts exist. I know some will suspend the swingarm, to me it's not that big of a deal to just remove it. Plus, it's a good time to lube swingarm and suspension bearings, change coolant, etc. The job really isn't as bad as it seems. Someone mentioned I figure 8 hours to do this job - it's not 8, it's actually 5 to 6 for a first timer with mechanical ability - especially if you don't waste time looking for "shortcuts" (like I did). Steve Shleper of the 7th gear unit and performance exhaust cam sprockets. My bike - "SHOODABEN" - 1109cc's of what an 04 concours "shoodaben"!
 
Colin posted in the belly pan thread its possible to do w/o removing the shock. I think you will need to remove both the lower shock bolt and the lower linkage bolts. Follow Colins instructions. For the water pump, yes I think you need to remove the hose to get it out. But its not that hard. It was pretty easy on my Connie. Other than draining the coolant first from at lower drain bolt does not get all the coolant out. And I made a mess when removing the hose. Short of that it was not a big step. One shortcut mentioned in the Clymer instructions is to only remove the mounting bolts for the clutch slave and hang it out of the way. No need to remove and deal with clutch fluid. Another observation was my 7th gear came with the lower oil tube already attached. No need to remove the lower oil tube as it says in the Clymer. Leave it there and dont have to hassle with needing replacement copper washers. I understand. I was nervious too. I too was not sure I wanted to undertake this big big job. But now that its done, it was not really that hard. Also note I did it over 4 days doing the main work over a 3 day period, and the putting the plastic back on later after test rides were complete. It took some time. I had 12 hours into it, including getting all the plastic and tipover bar back on after the test rides. 8 hrs of that is real time and 4 hrs of that is being a dumb ass. I did dumb stuff like put the shift linkage and clutch slave all in and forgot to hookup the wires for the neutral light and oil pressure sender. You can read all about it in the belly pan. Later I found I installed the shift pedal backwards. I am pretty good at the shift pedal now. All in all I call it time consuming and lots of steps. But they are not overly techincal steps and do not require special tools. Typical metric wrenchs, sockets, allens, pliers, etc. will do it and a torque wrench. -- I think if you can adjust valves you can do this. 2003 Concours, 46K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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the guy who owns it posted that it's a gustaffson. Shleper of the 7th gear unit and performance exhaust cam sprockets. My bike - "SHOODABEN" - 1109cc's of what an 04 concours "shoodaben"!
 
in the pictures you link to Roger, who make the wind screen on the blue bike?
it's a Gustafsson http://tinyurl.com/6rnyak I got it for a COG member that sold his connie roger123,Tommyhof,and me did the 7th gear mod in about 4 hours of course we have already done one before, so we had a little bit of experience
 
Thanks to every one for the quick response. I feel much more confident now. The whole job seems less daunting than first perceived. And probably quicker removing the shock, after all, it's only one more easily accessible bolt. I still have one nagging question. Is it possible that the gasket sticks to the crankcase? I positively hate scraping semi-permanently stuck gaskets from aluminum cases, for fear of scratching and subsequent leaks.... and it seems to be an uncomfortable place to do some serious scraping. Anyone had a bad experience? For valve adjust, I always remove the pickup coil cover to rotate the engine. The first time, the gasket stuck to the engine and it stayed there and after 6 adjustments, no leaks. But for the bevel gearcase, I guess it's better to replace the gasket.
 
your 05 has a steel shim gasket, so it won't stick at all. The earlier ones used a paper gasket, and apparently leaks were common, hence the later model steel gasket. I also provide a new kawasaki gasket with each unit. it's a plug n' play. I'm building 4 units this week, and exhausting my current supply of gearsets. Time to do some more gear hunting... Steve Shleper of the 7th gear unit and performance exhaust cam sprockets. My bike - "SHOODABEN" - 1109cc's of what an 04 concours "shoodaben"!
 
Steve will send a new bevel case gasket as part of the 7th gear unit. Its a much better gasket than the one that was in there from the factory, so you might as well replace it. Its included. In my case the gasket came right out. Very little stuck on. And what did came off easily enough. Although I am only 1 case. So thats hardly conclusive. The bevel drive will come assembled and ready to install. No need for other gaskets there. The water pump has 2 o-rings. The Clymers says to replace these. I just reused mine. You choose. The Clymers says to replace the clutch slave gasket too. I dont see why. I used the same here too. Wouldnt bother. You'll need lots of loctite. Oil change and coolant. Since I recently did the rear diff, I didnt bother with that. Make sure to set aside in a way it doesnt leak all over. You'll want high temp moly disulfide ( or what ever they call that crap ) grease for the splines in the drive shaft when assembling. Also grease gun for the suspension zerks, swingarm, etc. 2003 Concours, 46K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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All in all the Clymer instructions were pretty good about getting everything apart. Getting things back together is sometimes the statement to perform the reverse, with maybe some notes where needed. My two additional notes are to remember to plug in the neutral wire and oil pressure sender wire after the water pump and before the shift pedal bracket and clutch slave. When installing the drive shaft and putting the little pin in place. The output splines on the bevel drive, where the nut is, has a small, flat, round spring metal piece that the pin pushes against. This keeps the pin pushed out where it needs to be to keep the drive line pinned in place. -- Well the new 7th gear unit didnt have one of these ( I removed mine from the old unit ). So initially the pin just pushes through the splines and does not have any spring tension. I am wondering WTF? The other one was not like this. I could not see where the manual mentions this little piece at all. So I had to panic over this one before comparing the two units and swapping the piece from the old to the new. 2003 Concours, 46K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Well, I've no more excuses for freaking out of doing it... finally, it seems easy, you convinced me ! I must first contact Steve shortly to have him stick my name on one of those 4 units. The job itself will have to wait until early spring. It's now around 30 deg. in my insulated but unheated garage; it would be doable, but the grease is stiff, the rubber boots not very pliable and I don't trust bolts torqued at this low temp.! But come the first rays of spring warmer sun ! I'm envisioning the relaxed ride to Fontana ! There shouldn't be many problems to do the install, I don't usually tighten plugs right through cases!!! But I've seen lots of broken bolts, being of the school of thought that says: when in doubt, tighten a little bit more ! For the spring pushing the little pin in place, could it be the spring shown on fig. 109, page 232 of the Clymer Manual, and part no. 3, fig. 37, page 364? When I'll have the parts in hand, it'll be easier to comprehend. Once again, thanks to every one for the information and encouragement !
 
Steve has said this is a sneaky mod. It sneaks up on you. And I think I know what he means. 560mi of slab yesterday. Its a long and boring trip from Mountain Home ID to my house. I have made that too many times. And the 7th gear unit makes the task so much easier. 4200rpms in 6th = 70mph stock, 4400rpns in 6th = 80mph with the 7th gear unit. The Connie rips down the slab and 75 and 80 with the cruise control set, like she was meant for the task. I think this is a sneaky mod, because much of the time I think we ride by feel. You know the sound and feel of the bike at a given task. Sure I look at the instruments, but I think sound/feel had a lot to do with it. In any case, when you make this change it initially screws up your learned sound/feel. You kinda have to relearn your Connie. Over time you easily get used to it. It become natural again without even realizing it. The one day it hits you, damn I love this mod. 2003 Concours, 52K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Roger did one and half conversions that day, took him about 4 hours to do mine, that includes purging and refilling the rear shock. Then we rode over to Paul's, about 45 minutes away so he could put Paul's bike back together with my gear, since he was getting ready to sell. Of course I helped a little. Roger's the man, of course he expects you to bring beer and donuts. Virginia Beach, VA COG 6517 03 Concours (9/11/04) 01 Concours (8/16/08) USN Retired
 
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