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Anybody tried these connectors?

Butt Connectors have been around for years...I guess as long as you're careful they should work...

But, I can't help thinking...if they've been around so long...why isn't everybody using them?

Never have used them, myself...but, I think I'd use solder and some heat shrink tubing to do the job...YMMV...
 
interesting product, may have to add some to my collection...
I don't see any U/L spec on them tho.
and they are limited to stranded copper wire, as solder doesn't bond aluminum wire,
I found a lot of aluminum wire on the C14... when I was adding my trailer harness.

still, unique in it's own way...
 
Never had a problem with butt connectors and heat shrink. But i test them before the heat shrink - pull hard. I'm liking these.
 
I bought some like these, but haven't used any yet.
The ones I bought are made by TE Connectivity (if you don't recognize the name, they are a major worldwide, well established connector manufacturer)
I bought them on the recommendation of a friend who is an electrical engineer, and tole me that they work very well.
I'm not sure I would trust a no-name China knock-off on anything critical or difficult to get to just in case...

Jorge
 
as an engineer, spec'ing products used in my designs, I can not verify efficacy... I simply must go with UL/CE approved components, for every designed assembly..

ymmv

personally, I never spec;d any "spliced" wire junction, ever... but my reputation forced that premise.. bike stuff is completely different...
ymmv
 
I would only use them with a good heat gun. You will have to get the solder hot enough to flow into the wire just like with an iron. The position of the solder has to be right over the wire overlap.
 
Jorge said:
Good points Rich.
After I read their spec spec sheet, I wonder if my heat gun will run hot enough to get these to work properly...650F
Here's a link to the spec sheet; no UL/CE rating, but since they are TE parts, I'd expect, if used properly, they'll work well.

https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Specification+Or+Standard%7FRPIP-824-00%7FG%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_SS_RPIP-824-00_G.pdf%7F114163-000
Click to expand...

Why don't you give one a go and get back to us? Just practice.... >:D
 
Jorge said:
Good points Rich.
After I read their spec spec sheet, I wonder if my heat gun will run hot enough to get these to work properly...650F
Here's a link to the spec sheet; no UL/CE rating, but since they are TE parts, I'd expect, if used properly, they'll work well.

https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Specification+Or+Standard%7FRPIP-824-00%7FG%7Fpdf%7FEnglish%7FENG_SS_RPIP-824-00_G.pdf%7F114163-000
Click to expand...

the ad does state, in the Picture, that the solder begin to melt at 280*F/130*C, but as there is no "flux" involved, and the temp may have to be higher for the "bond" I can't see it being 650*F... a normal flux core solder is in the 700*range... normally...
Normal solder bonds on wires, is when the wires are heated to temp, and solder applied, and melted by the wire temp, not the "external heat", which may result in a cold bond"... I'm gonna buy some just to have tho, BIC lighter and fixing wires always is an option...  I always carry butt crimp, and IDP (scotch lok) splices, and when all else fails in an emergency "twit-em-up-tight" wire twist, and electrical tape... has always got me home.

I do like modern stuff tho, and "in the industry" have seen many new "splice" connections and materials surface, for making emergency "field" splices, with waterproof integrity, in the "large cable" end of the spectrum (like 500-750kcmil/mcm cable and such).
 
Having put together thousands of connectors as an Electronic Technician building broadcast Radio/TV facilities, and classrooms, I have to say these electrical connectors intrigued me.  I jumped on a kit and gave it a try.  Sure enough they work well! 

For the test, I stripped two 16 GA wires, and followed their instructions.  I like in-line splices to hold together mechanically before soldering.  Their instructions say to simply twist the wires together, slide the connector over the splice and use a heat gun.  For this photo (sorry it’s blurry) , I left a bit more stands showing than necessary to see the solder flow.  And darned if the 1500 watt heat gun didn’t melt the solder and skink the wrap in one shot.  I could not pull the joint apart, so I say it’s a winner.  :great:

splice.jpg
 
I may get some to try also. I want to use these in the Bowling Alley (motors and such)  Thanks for the pic 4Bikes.
  I have found I have to treat the mechanical and electrical stuff at the alley like I would motorcycle and marine because of the vibrations in the building.
 
I used these on my last batch of brake strobes. The wires from the LED arrays were so fine that normal soldering was very difficult for me. These let me prep everything, slip the wires into the tubes, adjust everything just so, and then hit it with my heat gun and watch the solder flow. I then did a piece of black heat shrink over the wires/connectors, both for additional strain relief as well as for the aesthetics. I've had no problems reported in over 2 years. Recommended.
 
As a followup to my other post, I used these for real for the first time adding LED bullet brake lights to my license plate bracket.  They worked great. 
 
I had another chance to test these Kuject solder seal connectors. I run the Mondo Moto MM-10 lights and had a wire break free from one of the water proof connectors in the harness they provide. I decided to bypass both connectors, so I extended the wiring harness rather than remove the plastic and replace the entire harness. I used these Kuject connectors on both extensions, so 8 connectors total were installed.

I have to say I’m impressed with how solder melts to join the wires and the heat shrink seals the connection, probably supplying a mechanical connection lacking by not twisting the wires together. Two of the connections were tucked just below the fairing so I used aluminum foil when using the heat gun. With these connectors and heat shrink on top of both of the connectors, they look solid. This is a good test for this non-mechanical solder connections since the front fork action will beat up the wires over time.
 
I first used these at work over 20 years ago.  It is surprising that it has taken this long to become used more widely.  Only issue I had was if you have cheap pvc insulation and a real hot gun you can blow the insulation right off the wire trying to get the solder to flow.
 
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