• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Anyone raise their fork legs, drop the front a bit?

1882

Bicycle
I did about 10mm on my ZX14 with great results with turn in and line holding and am going to do the same to Connie, any thoughts y'all?
 
  As far as the Concours goes. I did it on my 03 C10 along with other suspension upgrades. (but although they share a name, that's still a different bike) But since I mentioned it, I'll add it. Since I did the upgrades on the C10 all at once, I can't tell you for sure how it effected the C10. But overall the effects of the upgrades where dramatically better.
    But never tried it on my C14. Although not perfect. The OEM suspension on the C14 is pretty good. But in past experience on other bikes, I'm sure it would make turn in slightly quicker. But always a question is: Would there be any negative effects in changing the bikes geometry? That's something that's always possible when making such changes. It can effect certain bikes differently than it might others. 
 
I've had more experience with endures. When I dropped the clamps and raised the forks, the added effect was bad. Decreased stablity and it was more likely for steering wobble. Thats my experience, I don't own a Concours yet. Hopefully get a 2013 when they come out.
 
Good reading for sure, I definitely agree that it's all a compromise. I rarely take my 14 or Connie deep into triple digit speeds and I live in WV so cornering prowess is of higher priority than stability for Texas style riding. The improvement on my 14 was pretty remarkable as I dropped the front 10mm and went with a 190/55 rear so I've changed my geometry from both ends. The 190/55 is already on Connie and the improvement was noticeable so I'm thinking the front end lowering should yield similar results. We shall see....
 
You've got to be careful about the placebo effect sometimes.  When you want a mod to work and then invest the time&money to do it, quite often the butt dyno is already calibrated in favor of the mod.  This is so often the case with replacement tires.  To be objective on comparing to the new tires, you have to remember back to how the "old" tires handled when it was still "new".  For most folks, that could be a year or more ago.  For others like me who bought pre-owned... we never got to sample them when they were brand new.  Just about any replacment tires are going to feel great compared to your old ones that were worn out and possibly worn unevenly & cupped.

190/55 is theoretically supposed to be about 10mm taller than 190/50, but if you look up the mfr's spec chart, that is sometimes not the case.  I've seen some 195/50, 195/55 in the same model list almost the same ride height.

Not to say 10mm down front and 10mm up rear makes little difference, but just may be the quicker turn-in is actually due to the different tire(s) than the suspension changes.

I've raised the triple on my gixxer track bunny during lunch break on track day, based on recommendation from more seasoned riders.  I honestly could not tell any difference in how the bike handled over the exactly same course at the exact same pace.  May be a much better rider could have felt it, but my own butt dyno lacked the precision necessary to detect.
 
was going to , but thinking it will wear out the front tire even faster with more weight on it , so i left it stock
 
Isn't the C14 is too big and heavy to have stability issues with some minor geometry changes?

You have to remember that your weight effects the rake/trail too.  I weigh 160, so I'm not going to squat the bike down as much as a 220lb guy like Kawasaki perhaps intended.  So I can get away with dropping the front more, since I'm lighter

When I get mine, I'm going to put a 55 on the back and lower the front the exact same amount the taller tire raises it up the rear.  Then set your suspension setting or do aftermarket stuff.  Small changes that are equivalent to the difference between a light and heavy rider on a sport-touring bike at real world speeds aren't going to do much anyway. Do what feels right.
 
I tried raising the tubes on the C-14 and found increased tendency to wobble. That was with PR-2's. Now back to stock (flush with the triple clamp)
 
Not only does it change the rake and trail geometry, but lowering just the front will cause weight to transfer off the back wheel and onto the front, which will alter the sag and the dynamics of the fork and rear shock damping. So just be aware, you'll probably need to go back to square one and start all over getting your suspension settings dialed in properly. It also can impact the aerodynamics and change the airflow in the cockpit slightly.
 
Top