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Battery Connections

motospec

Guest
Guest
I know you have all read stories about “check and/or clean battery and ground terminals”. I have been a professional motorcycle mechanic for almost fifty years. Today riding my 2012 with a good riding friend on his 2008 I stopped for gasoline and my friend stopped with me. He turned his 2008 off (he needed no gas) and when he pushed the key down to restart there was no click, no LCD, nothing!!! I went simplest first and changed the FOB battery and nothing. I then pulled the covers for the battery and slid it out. I first disconnected the negative from the frame and put a 10mm wrench on the positive bolt (the bolt and terminal were perfectly clean) to check tightness and at the first movement I thought it may not be tight enough. I backed off and retightened all the perfectly clean positive and negative bolts on the terminals and pressed the key and everything was restored electrically. My point in posting this after reading so many posts about this is that they can all look PERFECT and STILL have an incomplete connection. I will clean and wire brush all of them later. Thanks for listening.
 
It's may have been the stuck KIPASS activation switch under the key as happens occàsionally on that model, for which the K rock term was invented. Repeated pressing of the key may have freed it up un this occasion.
 
It's may have been the stuck KIPASS activation switch under the key as happens occàsionally on that model, for which the K rock term was invented. Repeated pressing of the key may have freed it up un this occasion.
No, all of that was tried.
 
Makes sense Paul...
Some of those connections were to aluminum. Aluminum oxide is an insulator, and if thin, can be in almost invisible. Loosening and re-tightening can break up that oxide and allow a connection.
Applying dielectric grease on the connections after they're cleaned them will help (somewhat) seal the connections and reduce oxidation. Although the grease in non-conductive, it squirts out from the contact points.
I use it frequently...hoping to not have those issues you ran into.
 
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Makes sense Paul...
Some of those connections were to aluminum. Aluminum oxide is an insulator, and if thin, can be in almost invisible. Loosening and re-tightening can break up that oxide and allow a connection.
Applying dielectric grease on the connections after they're cleaned them will help (somewhat) seal the connections and reduce oxidation. Although the grease in non-conductive, it squirts out from the contact points.
I use it frequently...hoping to not have those issues you ran into.
All of which will be done when NOT at a gas station on a Sunday morning👍👍👍👍👍
 
It's may have been the stuck KIPASS activation switch under the key as happens occàsionally on that model, for which the K rock term was invented. Repeated pressing of the key may have freed it up un this occasion.
That's where my mind went. I need to find that box with the BDF thing for his 2008. I never got a chance to put it on mine before it bit the dust. I think it is out in the barn with the original USPS box and instructions. Someone with an 08/09 would probably be in need of it. My 13 and 18 have the upgraded non rock needed switches.
 
Motospec, my last battery change WAS in a gas station...but on a Saturday morning-LOL
2017 or 2018 in Jacksonville FL.
Fortunately there was an OReilly about 1/2 mile.
Battery went from "fine" to a dead cell while I waited for my wife to get gas. Still, not the worst place/time possible, so we were thankful.
 
Makes sense Paul...
Some of those connections were to aluminum. Aluminum oxide is an insulator, and if thin, can be in almost invisible. Loosening and re-tightening can break up that oxide and allow a connection.
Applying dielectric grease on the connections after they're cleaned them will help (somewhat) seal the connections and reduce oxidation. Although the grease in non-conductive, it squirts out from the contact points.
I use it frequently...hoping to not have those issues you ran into.

Jorge is an electrical engineer who works for battery mfg companies and we finally know what really happens “down there.” Thanks for the explanation Jorge!

My “next to last “ battery change was in Oregon, 3,500 miles from home after a battery expired on my Goldwing at a two pump gas station in a one horse town. Made me think.😉

When I got home, I changed the one in the C-14, too.
 
I plug a lighter socket into my tender lead that I use for charging items when in extended trips. I plugged it in the night before and it would not work. Took the socket all apart and had continuity to both as sides. Voltmeter showed power out of the tender lead. I was so pumped so pulled the battery cover and the positive was loose! Bike always started great but the tender lead evidently didn't have a good connection.

It's the little things, the itty bitty things

 
Dielectric grease is an insulator. Contacts should be metal to metal.

Larry

When I was doing X-Ray repair for a living, we kept tubes of this stuff on hand to protect battery connections on mobile x-ray systems. Keeps corrosion to a minimum, after tightening the connections. Also used in high voltage connections to help keep them clean, reduce leakage currents, and arcing. Good stuff when used properly.
 
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