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Brake Pad Life?

CoachTony

CoachTony

Member
Member
What is the average life span of the factory brake pads on the C14?
A stealership told me my front outside pads are wearing faster than the inside, and should be changed in the next couple hundred miles. The bike has 16,000 miles on it. I did noticed that when on the center stand, the rear tire does not spin freely, there is a little brake rub, and I can only get about half a rotation from a hand spin.
Any advice is welcome.
 
At 16K on the factory pads the fronts are likely just about done. Do you use the rear brake a lot? If you do then that pad set may need replacing. DIY, CoachTony and save your self some money and time. Plenty of help here if you have any questions.
 
I'm with Moore on this one. Pads are relatively cheap and pretty easy to do. Plus it be a good time to flush the brake fluids front and rear. Take a scotch bright to.the rotors to clean off any build up.

U didnt mention what year ur c14 is. The fact that ur rear is rubbing could mean a few things,.like build up of crude (technical term) around the caliber boot preventing it from retracting completely, or depending on the year, the brake linkage/stone recall.

Count on the stealership to only change ur pads and not do a thorough cleaning of the affected components..

Join for the bike, stay for the people..
 
Konehead34 said:
I'm with Moore on this one. Pads are relatively cheap and pretty easy to do. Plus it be a good time to flush the brake fluids front and rear. Take a scotch bright to.the rotors to clean off any build up.

U didnt mention what year ur c14 is. The fact that ur rear is rubbing could mean a few things,.like build up of crude (technical term) around the caliber boot preventing it from retracting completely, or depending on the year, the brake linkage/stone recall.

Count on the stealership to only change ur pads and not do a thorough cleaning of the affected components..

Join for the bike, stay for the people..
Click to expand...
Thank you! I have a 2015. I have set up with a local independent mechanic to swap out all the pads, and make sure everything is good to go. I have two long trips coming up, and I want to be in tip top shape.
 
CoachTony said:
Thank you! I have a 2015. I have set up with a local independent mechanic to swap out all the pads, and make sure everything is good to go. I have two long trips coming up, and I want to be in tip top shape.
Click to expand...
If you use the rear brake alot the one side of the front will be wore a lot more. I pretty much only use the front brakes.
 
If you have a 2015, (I think) you have the early linked brakes like I have on my 2014.
When you apply both, they apply a bit aggressively.
The best thing you can do is "don't apply" the rear brakes.
The Bike will do it for you, and you'll be a lot smoother in the twisties.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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kzz1king said:
If you use the rear brake alot the one side of the front will be wore a lot more. I pretty much only use the front brake
Click to expand...
That makes sense with what the dealership said. I am replacing all the brakes on my bike, so I know exactly where I stand before I take off on two long trips.
Will have to work on using the front more in twisties, I have gotten into the habit of using the rear with linked braking to keep my throttle hand free.
 
CoachTony said:
That makes sense with what the dealership said. I am replacing all the brakes on my bike, so I know exactly where I stand before I take off on two long trips.
Will have to work on using the front more in twisties, I have gotten into the habit of using the rear with linked braking to keep my throttle hand free.
Click to expand...
Two fingers on brake you can still operate throttle.
 
connie_rider said:
If you have a 2015, you have the early linked brakes like I have on my 2014.
When you apply both, they apply a bit aggressively.
The best thing you can do is "don't apply" the rear brakes.
The Bike will do it for you, and you'll be a lot smoother in the twisties.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
Which brake lever connects to which brake pads? When I use the front brake lever on my 2010 am I also activating the rear brake? I notice when using the front brake and then applying the rear brake in conjunction with the front brake the braking increases substantially.

My front brakes work very well by themselves and I am grateful for how well they work. Those cheap sinistered pads on E Bay for $30 from China work great too.. they have a normal life span and it's not all that long. lol !

I suppose I could just put it on the center stand, turn off the traction control then put it in gear and apply the front brake lever to find out.
 
There's a great factory produced video on the thread titled...linked brakes; stupid question, that explains alot of what's going on...
 
I carry Chinese pads as spares and had to use them at a track day.
(I forgot to check my pads before I went).
They worked well and I kept them on the bike.
I was suprise'd that they worked so well.
I liked them enough to buy another set.

www.ebay.com

Front+Rear Brake Pads for Kawasaki Concours 14 ZZR GTR ZX 1400 Ninja [2006-2021] | eBay

Concours 14 (ZG 1400) / GTR 1400 (2008-2021). ZZR 1400 / ZX 14 Ninja (ZX 1400 R)A/BABS (2006-2020). Concours 1400 (ZG 1400 B/D) (2008-2010). ZX 1400 R ABS (ZX 1400 B6F/B7F) (2006-2007). ZX 1400 R ABS (2008-2021).
www.ebay.com

The front lever operates the 2 front calipers and lightly applies the rear.
The back lever applies the rear and 1 caliper on the front.

I notice when using the front brake and then applying the rear brake in conjunction with the front brake the braking increases substantially.

Yupp. That's the reason I went to this method. That abrupt increase stood me up in a turn a couple of times and I decided there had to be a better way. Someone suggested to use the front only. I did and it works for me.
I was like you and had to teach myself to leave the rear brake alone.
After I did, I use it on both the C-10 and the C-14. Works great.
NOTE: In emergencies, I automatically use the rear too. (natural reaction/ without thinking about it)

For the twisties, you should look into trail braking.
NOTE: I used to think that Trail braking used the rear brakes, but it is the front that is used.

 
I didn't know that. Thought the change wasn't until 16 or 17?

Ride safe, Ted

Update;
You mean, I wuz wrooooonnnggggg (again)?
Ohh, the shame..! :eek:
 
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2015 was the first year with the latest changes.

...including new seat, an adjustable vent on the windscreen, a new exhaust heat shield and a low-friction steering stem seal. The fully linked K-ACT ABS has been revised, the first gear ratio is slightly lower and the initial rear spring preload setting is stiffer.
 
Yes. . . linked brakes are better on the revised system. I test rode a 2010 while looking recently and it certainly had more intrusive linked brake control than the 2017 I bought. Pedal gave a lot of feedback. Best was my 08 with non-linked ABS, but I decided I was tired of my shins roasting when it was only 75 deg out. I am still getting use to the brakes. Yeah search on mag reviews of 2015s, they describe all the updates.
 
Pete_COG_TN said:
Yes. . . linked brakes are better on the revised system. I test rode a 2010 while looking recently and it certainly had more intrusive linked brake control than the 2017 I bought. Pedal gave a lot of feedback. Best was my 08 with non-linked ABS, but I decided I was tired of my shins roasting when it was only 75 deg out. I am still getting use to the brakes. Yeah search on mag reviews of 2015s, they describe all the updates.
Click to expand...
Also note - effect of the linked brakes can be controlled by setting on the dash controls. Unsure if all years but the 2017 (guessing 2015 up) has some notable amount of control.

I have my settings reduced to minimum and don’t mind at all the linked brakes, actually like them. it is a one ‘stop’ shop (pun intended) on the right handle bar brake lever and controls everything.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
CoachTony said:
What is the average life span of the factory brake pads on the C14?
A stealership told me my front outside pads are wearing faster than the inside, and should be changed in the next couple hundred miles. The bike has 16,000 miles on it. I did noticed that when on the center stand, the rear tire does not spin freely, there is a little brake rub, and I can only get about half a rotation from a hand spin.
Any advice is welcome.
Click to expand...
Not had any issues with brakes not releasing. Are you sure it’s all brake rub the drive shaft and gear mechanism is not without drag (actually a good deal of mechanicals rotating with the wheel). Take off caliper and see if it is remarkably better or not.

For brake life we have 60K miles or there about. Due to some larger trips (6,000 miles plus in mtns) I’ve preemptively (and probably wastefully) swapped my pads but whatever I’m on the 4th set and never had a problem with them. We do occasionally heat them with some spirited mtn riding but that’s what they are there for…

I bought the whole tach I’ll use that, I bought the whole tire I’ll use that practically edge to edge and I bought a bike with a good braking system I’ll use that to its capacity as well. Note: All the above use cases are to a practical limit (subjective) and my measly street riding capability.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
I agree the influence of the rear brake applied when already using the front brake is substantial on my 2010 Concours. Its just something to get use to through muscle memory in my humble opinion. Knowing how your motorcycle responds to imputes is the key to control.
As far as brake pads go... those sinistered pads from China at $30 ( 8 pads ) work great. My last set lasted a little over 6000 miles. Not to economical as I am sure most would agree, however, the braking power suits me fine and the value is there in my case.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155114248762

I ran some of those Celtric pads a while back... they worked ok but had a definite odor to them when braking moderate to firm usage which had me wondering... what is in these pads / compound that produces this odor?
 
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