• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Broken drain bolt on final gear plug and…

L

ldmatthewward9891

Guest
Guest
Hi,

Yesterday, took my ‘06 Connie out. Changing oil and final gear drive oil. Ran into a couple problems.

First, torquing the final drive drain bolt, the head literally twisted off. In the manual, instructions state torque 13ft/lbs. Now half the bolt is still lodged in that drain hole. Do I just get an extractor and try that? I certainly don’t want the remaining bolt to go back in that drive oil bay… So far, it’s holding - it isn’t leaking.

Second, changing the oil. When I removed the oil filter housing, I noticed there was no washer. (in the book, it goes spring-washer-oil filter). Now it’s just spring-oil filter. That spring is contacting the rubber on the oil filter. My question is this…. not thinking, I just re-assembled and filled the oil. Will that spring-rubber contact (not having that washer in there) do more harm than good?

Any advice here is appreciated. I’m at the point I ride the bike the 3 miles down the road to the shop and have them do it.
 
I dont remember there being Washer between the spring and filter. U tube videos, doesn't show one either. ..

That seems like an excessive amount of tongue for that bolt. But yes I would get it out. Try a reversed drill bit, but one way or another it's got come out...
 
Here’s the washer position / orientation and I would replace it otherwise if your spring pierced through the rubber base of the oil filter you lose contact with the other end. Or if the spring adds a bit of an angle to the filter also not as designed. Spring is functional to keep filter pressed against the pickup.

Then for the drain plug this kit at harbor freight will get you by and you will use it again.

Hope this helps - BTW where are you located?

Wayne, Carol & Blue

C7754871-7589-4AAB-823D-94342223A4D0.jpeg
 
P.S. I am confident many have lost this washer over the decades and had many worry-free smiles, miles and enjoyment for years to come without it… I guess I would rather not be #1 that had a problem.
 
Konehead34 said:
I dont remember there being Washer between the spring and filter. U tube videos, doesn't show one either. ..

That seems like an excessive amount of tongue for that bolt. But yes I would get it out. Try a reversed drill bit, but one way or another it's got come out...
Click to expand...
I just watched the YouTube video and he didn’t have a washer in his filter housing. Hmm.
 
2andblue said:
P.S. I am confident many have lost this washer over the decades and had many worry-free smiles, miles and enjoyment for years to come without it… I guess I would rather not be #1 that had a problem.
Click to expand...
I agree 100% with you, Wayne. The washer, as minuscule as it is, is there for a reason. Thanks for the kit link; looks perfect for the job. I am located in central PA. Thanks again, Wayne!
 
Common issue was for that washer to stick to the filter's grommet, and not being noticed, they got pitched with filter in the trash.

As for the drain bolt. How flush is the remaining portion of the bolt to the hub's surface? If relatively close, I would take a VERY sharp smallish punch, position the tip close to the edge of the bolt, make an initial dimple straight on. Then, with the body of punch at an angle with the tip facing in the CCW direction, take taps in that direction to see if it begins to back out. If it has no indication that it wants to start backing out, then the previously mentioned LH drill bit in a reverse turning hand drill will probably be your best bet. If it doesn't begin to move during the reverse drilling procedure, only drill the hole deep enough so a screw extractor can get a bite in the hole. Do not drill the hole all the way through so you avoid getting shavings in the drive. Then, use a screw extractor to back the broken section out.

Good luck with it.
 
gbyoung2 said:
Common issue was for that washer to stick to the filter's grommet, and not being noticed, they got pitched with filter in the trash.

As for the drain bolt. How flush is the remaining portion of the bolt to the hub's surface? If relatively close, I would take a VERY sharp smallish punch, position the tip close to the edge of the bolt, make an initial dimple straight on. Then, with the body of punch at an angle with the tip facing in the CCW direction, take taps in that direction to see if it begins to back out. If it has no indication that it wants to start backing out, then the previously mentioned LH drill bit in a reverse turning hand drill will probably be your best bet. If it doesn't begin to move during the reverse drilling procedure, only drill the hole deep enough so a screw extractor can get a bite in the hole. Do not drill the hole all the way through so you avoid getting shavings in the drive. Then, use a screw extractor to back the broken section out.

Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
It’s fairly close to the surface but I think the problem is that it’s not flat…it broke at an angle so the remaining piece is jagged. Might be kinda difficult getting a punch to center. I’ll have to look at it. Shoulda took a picture of it.
 
ldmatthewward9891 said:
It’s fairly close to the surface but I think the problem is that it’s not flat…it broke at an angle so the remaining piece is jagged. Might be kinda difficult getting a punch to center. I’ll have to look at it. Shoulda took a picture of it.
Click to expand...
It shouldn't be centered to try the initial tap and turn procedure. With the extractor method, it should be centered as close as possible. With a good sharp punch, you should be able to position the tip as close to center as possible, then with light taps get a good dimple started, and make it deeper once the tip begins to get a good bite.
 
gbyoung2 said:
It shouldn't be centered to try the initial tap and turn procedure. With the extractor method, it should be centered as close as possible. With a good sharp punch, you should be able to position the tip as close to center as possible, then with light taps get a good dimple started, and make it deeper once the tip begins to get a good bite.
Click to expand...
Ok, I’ll see if I can get a good picture of it to share. See what my best option will be. Thanks!
 
If you can pull your housing off, if all else fail, take it to a machine shop and they’d be able to get it out.
If you have access to a welder, you may be able to spot weld a piece on to grab.
Best of luck
 
Final drives are plentiful and cheap. Machine shop rates generally aren't unless you have a friend in the business. Swap it out at the next tire change.
 
With the broken bolt lodged in, it’s actually leaking slowly. Hence the seal at the washer and not the bolt itself. Will a standard galvanized bolt/washer from Lowe’s be an OK replacement? Or do I need to get an aluminum or special kind?

Thanks for the help, everyone.
 
Hopefully you're talking about zinc plated. Which is technically galvanized, BUT is a very thin electro deposited layer of zinc. Completely different than what is commonly called galvanized. Zinc plated would be the common name.

1678714637751.png
 
M8 is bolt size . 12 is bolt length.
An aluminum or copper washer may be harder to find at a Lowes or Home Depot type of place.
To find the washer you might have to go to an automotive parts store or a good Hardware store. (Here we have Ace hardware)
They should have copper or aluminum washers for Hydraulic applications.
Can't tell you how many times I've gone to Ace hardware after being frustrated at Lowes or Home Depot.
 
Bud said:
Any progress on removal of the old bolt?
Click to expand...
Not yet. My wife is expecting our newborn any day now and have been working a lot. Also, in these parts of the country (PA), it’s been cold and windy. I’m getting there. I got the tools I need and I feel pretty confident so I’ll keep you guys posted!
 
ldmatthewward9891 said:
Not yet. My wife is expecting our newborn any day now and have been working a lot. Also, in these parts of the country (PA), it’s been cold and windy. I’m getting there. I got the tools I need and I feel pretty confident so I’ll keep you guys posted!
Click to expand...
Congrats in advance for your soon to be born riding buddy!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Hey guys, just wanted to give an update.

A courteous fellow forum member mailed me a couple washers for the oil filter assembly. Super thankful for his generosity.

As for the drain bolt - final drive, it was much easier than expected. I took several pictures but cannot find a way to upload here. The broken bolt was probably 5-6mm from the entry point. So I took the smallest punch I have, made a point on the broken metal, then took the smallest reverse (left-hand) drill bit I have and slowly started to extract it. The really cool part is that I didn’t need to use an extractor. While reverse drilling, the bolt started coming out. So much to the point I was able to use needle nose pliers to remove the rest of the way. New bolt, new oil, good to go.

Thanks everyone for all the help. These forums are truly awesome and, although I’ve never met anyone here in person, I’m sure it would be great riding together some time.

Thanks again,
LD
 
ldmatthewward9891 said:
Hey guys, just wanted to give an update.

A courteous fellow forum member mailed me a couple washers for the oil filter assembly. Super thankful for his generosity.

As for the drain bolt - final drive, it was much easier than expected. I took several pictures but cannot find a way to upload here. The broken bolt was probably 5-6mm from the entry point. So I took the smallest punch I have, made a point on the broken metal, then took the smallest reverse (left-hand) drill bit I have and slowly started to extract it. The really cool part is that I didn’t need to use an extractor. While reverse drilling, the bolt started coming out. So much to the point I was able to use needle nose pliers to remove the rest of the way. New bolt, new oil, good to go.

Thanks everyone for all the help. These forums are truly awesome and, although I’ve never met anyone here in person, I’m sure it would be great riding together some time.

Thanks again,
LD
Click to expand...
Yay I’m glad you the drain plug out!

What about your newborn child - any news?

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top