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C10 fuel gauge

nomoreusmc6802

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Guest
So I know the fuel gauge is notoriously bad on these bikes, but when my fuel gauge is on empty I only fuel 3.25-4 gallons. Don't these things have a 7.4 gallon gas tank? Is this one too bad to mod or is the 7.4 fuel tank on the c14?
 
All depends on how u ride it of course. When I had my 98, I could go 250 miles to the tank on my 25 mile to work commute.

One of the c10 thread discussed bending the float are if I remember correctly..
 
I thought Harry had worked a resistor to put on the circuit to get it a lot closer to being right?

Somebody did, and I thought the "magic" value was 220 Ohms, or there about.

I put in a 10 turn variable resistor in parallel with the sender leads (didn't document the value :eek: ) so I could easily tweak it in if need be. So far, so good.
 
The black magic of electricity is the main reason I got a civil engineering degree…

I only had 2 - 100 ohm resistors in my very small electronics bag of tricks. I wired them in parallel (for 200 ohms) into the sending unit plug. It did change the reading of the gauge, but made it too optimistic. I had to go to reserve before the needle got near the red area of the gauge. I guess that 20 ohms makes the difference.

I’ve put about 1200 miles on my C10 now. I consistently get 38-39 mpg. That’s pretty much staying under 4000 rpm and trying to go easy on acceleration. Still enjoying the ride!!
 
Attached is my guide for bending the fuel gauge sender arm that I developed in 1998 for C-10 #1. Bending the arm so it conforms to line #3 will allow the fuel gauge to just be hitting the red reserve mark when you will have to switch the petcock to reserve. I'm on C-10 #4 and this graph has allowed me to adjust the arm exactly where it needs to be on all my subsequent C-10s without trial and error.

1686097542245.png
 
I use a 220 ohm resistor and it corrected things perfectly.

I hit reserve between 235 - 250 miles while yielding 41-44 mpg.

At that point the needle is just left of the 'E' white hash and touching the red.

That leaves me with about a gallon and a half (~60 miles) before absolutely empty.
 
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Murph - I did have to take the basic circuit theory class in lower division - 3 times before I finally passed the course! It was all theory with no lab - we never actually touched a circuit element - resistor/capacitor/inductors, etc, never used a VOM, never built a circuit with a breadboard, etc. It was all the theoretical math. Besides, I started as a pre-computer draftsman for a civil engineer in 1980 because I could visualize in 3D making topographic maps manually. In my old age I have studied some of YouTube stuff on simple circuits for M/C and automotive applications. But apparently not enough to realize I should have put my resistors in series!! 🙃 :p o_O
 
With the 220 resistor mod I'm right where it needs to be but why were these so far off to begin with ? Sounds like most bikes were way off from the factory .
 
The black magic of electricity is the main reason I got a civil engineering degree…

I only had 2 - 100 ohm resistors in my very small electronics bag of tricks. I wired them in parallel (for 200 ohms) into the sending unit plug. It did change the reading of the gauge, but made it too optimistic. I had to go to reserve before the needle got near the red area of the gauge. I guess that 20 ohms makes the difference.

I’ve put about 1200 miles on my C10 now. I consistently get 38-39 mpg. That’s pretty much staying under 4000 rpm and trying to go easy on acceleration. Still enjoying the ride!!
2 - 100 ohm resistors in parallel would wind up being 50 ohms. Yes, in series you would get 200 ohms.
 
I'm late the thread... here's my $0.02
The fuel gauge meter in the design is probably an off the shelf device. Since most connies are consistently off I feel any error in the gauge deflection is due to the sender unit mechanics or electronics not being matched well to the meter.

Modifying the mechanics of the sender (bending the arm) is an option, but it's a heck of a lot easier to dial in a good setting electronically Adding a resistor across the sender changes the effective resistance of the sending, and hence the meter deflection.

An enterprising individual might consider using a 400 (or 470) ohm multi-turn trimmer potentiometer instead of a fixed 220 ohm resistor - similar to this one: 3296W-1-471LF. If using a pot, adjust prior to connection to 220 ohm using an ohmmeter - then you can dial in the setting almost perfectly after install.

1687877242172.png
 
I'm late the thread... here's my $0.02
The fuel gauge meter in the design is probably an off the shelf device. Since most connies are consistently off I feel any error in the gauge deflection is due to the sender unit mechanics or electronics not being matched well to the meter.

Modifying the mechanics of the sender (bending the arm) is an option, but it's a heck of a lot easier to dial in a good setting electronically Adding a resistor across the sender changes the effective resistance of the sending, and hence the meter deflection.

An enterprising individual might consider using a 400 (or 470) ohm multi-turn trimmer potentiometer instead of a fixed 220 ohm resistor - similar to this one: 3296W-1-471LF. If using a pot, adjust prior to connection to 220 ohm using an ohmmeter - then you can dial in the setting almost perfectly after install.

View attachment 36291

Yup - that's what I did.
 
'"I'm late the thread... here's my $0.02
The fuel gauge meter in the design is probably an off the shelf device. Since most connies are consistently off I feel any error in the gauge deflection is due to the sender unit mechanics or electronics not being matched well to the meter.

Modifying the mechanics of the sender (bending the arm) is an option, but it's a heck of a lot easier to dial in a good setting electronically Adding a resistor across the sender changes the effective resistance of the sending, and hence the meter deflection.

An enterprising individual might consider using a 400 (or 470) ohm multi-turn trimmer potentiometer instead of a fixed 220 ohm resistor - similar to this one: 3296W-1-471LF. If using a pot, adjust prior to connection to 220 ohm using an ohmmeter - then you can dial in the setting almost perfectly after install.

View attachment 36291

Why would a "frugal Cogger" want to spend money on resistors or a potentiometer when there is a FREE FIX available? 🤓:)
 
Frugality has many forms. Money, time, effort, etc. it’s pretty easy to fish out the fuel sending unit plug from under the tank without removing the fuel tank, draining down the tank, or removing its sending unit. Splicing a resistor or group of resistors into one end the plug is also pretty easy. One just has to have a basic understanding of simple circuitry…:rolleyes::p
 
I'm late the thread... here's my $0.02
The fuel gauge meter in the design is probably an off the shelf device. Since most connies are consistently off I feel any error in the gauge deflection is due to the sender unit mechanics or electronics not being matched well to the meter.

Modifying the mechanics of the sender (bending the arm) is an option, but it's a heck of a lot easier to dial in a good setting electronically Adding a resistor across the sender changes the effective resistance of the sending, and hence the meter deflection.

An enterprising individual might consider using a 400 (or 470) ohm multi-turn trimmer potentiometer instead of a fixed 220 ohm resistor - similar to this one: 3296W-1-471LF. If using a pot, adjust prior to connection to 220 ohm using an ohmmeter - then you can dial in the setting almost perfectly after install.

View attachment 36291
I emptied the tank, filled, the number of liters that corresponds to the reserve and I adjusted my adjustable resistance, motorcycle right, of course.
 
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