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C14 shock Q for use on C10's (disassembly of shock inquiry)

m in sc

m in sc

Street Cruiser
I have looked around and couldn't find this answer... not sure if anybody even has one.

has anybody removed the lower aluminum mount off the body of the c14 shock? 
 
If I'm understanding your question.
Your referring to removing the lower/aluminum portion of the shock that has the damping adjustment screw in it?
No, never been done.

Ride safe, Ted
 
got it. wasnt sure. I can get it recharged, not an issue. just wasn't sure if anybody here had had it apart.
 
My mistake. I thought you wanted to remove it to do your mount.

I'm sure someone has taken a C-14 shock apart.
Also think that Race Tech rebuilds and modifies them.

Ride safe, Ted
 
well, i do. sort of. i want to take it apart, and modify the lower mount of the shock itself if i can. i've rebuilt shocks before, so disassembly and assembly really not an issue vs experience... . i just was looking for specific pitfalls before i attempted it, if i do it at all. 
 
I got a question for you m in sc, I assumed the click adjustor with large black knob is for compression damping, was told that no its a spring preloader for setting sag.I turned my adj the full 11 clicks both directions measuring spring length each time, and there was zero change in spring length, well you sure as heck cant preload a spring if you dont compress it a little bit, so we know its not for setting preload.So when you go inside your shock will you investigate what in the hell that clicker knob is doing when you turn it, we will all appreciate it. thx
 
to be fair, i havent look at the shock aside from when i received it. id imagine the lower screw is for rebound, but i'm not 100% sure. I'll get around to it soon enough. However, if i can move the lower hole even 1/2", and the sag is as everything i have read is, might be ok for me. I need to measure it all out, see what my options are before i start tearing the shock apart. even if i just move the holes UP the lower shock fork a bit in the mill (slot them)and tig on aluminum slugs to re position it a bit, i'll be good to go i think. like said, worst case, ill make new lower link arms if its all too much a PIA

 
 
The C-14 shock is 1" longer than the C-10 shock..

When I did my install, I also considered moving the lower hole.
Don't recall exact dimensions, but the hole can be moved only about 5/16" - 3/8".

You could move the hole only that amount, and allow the bike to sag in order to get the seat height you want..
But that uses up a lot of usable travel and offsets the benefits you get from installing the new shock.

In order to move the hole up more, material must be removed at the top of the pocket.
  Unfortunately, very little material can be removed in that area.
{because of the "rebound" damper screw, related oil passages, and size of the rocker}
Here is a C-14 shock. Look at the area.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-Kawasaki-Concours-14-ZG1400C-ABS-REAR-BACK-SHOCK-ABSORBER-DAMPER-ZG-1400-12/263755964903?hash=item3d6914a1e7:g:DZAAAOSwz35bIXHO

As you have machining capabilities; I think it better to make new rocker/links, or modify the existing rocker/links.
Both are a relatively big project.

NOTE: I've been thru some of this.
          I made custom (3/8" longer) Links for my C-14 as I wanted to lower my bike only a little.
          Commercially available links dropped the bike more than I wanted.

Ride safe, Ted
 
ted,

we are def very similar in thought process for sure.  :great:
im 205-210 but with a 30" inseam, so i'm used to 1 footing a bike.. since forever. I'm actually pretty confident i could stuff it on and just go as is, but i'll look into pocketing the lower bit some. if i can get 1/2" id be happy, sounds like its very possible to do so, the japanese are usually pretty generous with material in areas like this. or, i'll ruin the shock and waste 45 bucks.  :coffee2:

 
Ok, if your only removing 1/4"-3/8" it may be possible.
  I love projects too and have thoughts.  >:D
(Assuming you have a mill) I don't think you have to disassemble the shock.
Just clamp the strongest area of the lower shock in the vise (at correct angles) and remove the material..
NOTE: Material has to be removed on 2 planes to assure the rocker has room to move.
          1/4" End mill should remove the material, and give you the radius you need in the corners.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: PM me your cell number and I can send photo's of my install, and stock rocker, and stock Links.

 
cool. i'll pm you.

yes, i have a j-head bridgeport and a small #3 vintage pratt and whitney that can be used vertically and horizontally.  :beerchug:
 
connie_rider said:
          Commercially available links dropped the bike more than I wanted.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
By any chance do you remember the company name of these links that lower a C10 with the C14 shock.I dumped my c10 today because of being on my tippytoes trying to push thru a tigghttight turn and the extra 4-5 degrees of lean was all she wrote, I couldnt hold it up, so I'm in the market for an inch or two of lowering.
 
The Links I was talking about were used on my C-14.

Norm Soucy makes a lowering Rocker which is what I used on my {C-14 shocked} C-10..
I think most use that method.

There is 1 (adjustable) Lowering Link that some have used. {Soupy's}
It works, but needs to be spaced outboard a bit to clear the Shock Spring and there may be some center stand issues..

Ride safe, Ted
 
Thx, found Norms phone and email in one of your other posts,shot him an email but no answer yet, hope he still has one in stock,this tippytoe balancing makes me feel like I'm on a bike dirtbike.
 
Great, let me know how it works out.

1 thought.
I had to grind material off, {at the end of my Rocker} to clear the center-stand cross-brace.
Was EZ to do, and I did it with Rocker installed...

Check yours carefully after install.
Mine would only bind occasionally, {I think mine would bind if I was setting on the bike}.
So give it a thorough check while "varying" conditions.

NOTE: The Rocker I have was bought used. {and may not be Norm's, or was a prototype version}

Ride safe, Ted
 
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