Can Chain Tensoiner

[John__NC]

My mechanic thinks my 1999 Connie needs a new Cam Chain Tensioner. He told me that the part number for this item changed many times, leading him to believe that this part may have been improved or changed over the years. Is there a specific part # or maker of this part he should order? Thanks...John PS: This is keeping me from the Rally. A quick response would be appreciated.

 

[2linby]

Same Part from 94 - 2006. Doubtful it needs to be replaced either. The noise coming from it is most likely that of the noise associated with the tensioner when it is in between notches on the adjuster arm. I'm sure they have failed before I've just not heard of it. You can remove it easily enough for inspection without a mechanic to assist. Follow the link. http://www.ldrider.ca/techpages/camchaintensioner-stock.htm http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/40/Year/1999/ModelID/4421/Model/Concours/GroupID/138718/Group/Camshaft(s)/Tensioner http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=12048-1113&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com Again I doubt it is broken and if it is not, find a new mechanic. AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)

 

[richreed701]

Bob 2linby is correct. There is enough material covering this subjecy on this and other websites that you should find exactly what you need. Regardless of the year, it's an issue of wear and geometry. Experience has shown that when the chain has "stretched" to 1/2 its service limit, the chain tensioner has difficulty going to the next setting. It's the old 7th grade science lesson where you can easily hold a brick when you hold it close to your body, but when you extend your arm, it gets mighty heavy might quick. Same the tensioner; when new, it easily has the oomph to snap to the next setting in the cog, but as it extends, the spring loses its push. I'd venture to guess you have 30K to 50K miles on your bike. Replacing the tensioner won't do it, as it has the same issue as the old one. Oh, it may halp for a while, but for the long run, replacing the cam chain (not a hard job, actually) is the real answer. In the meantime, you are perectly safe doing a "manual adjustment" of the automatic adjuster. Just follow those links.

 

[John__NC]

The bike has 15000 miles on it. I'm not sure what the problem is. I'm doing some research on COG for my new mechanic. He was under the impression that the tensioners had problems and they should be replaced about every 16000 miles for good measure. Today in my research I discovered the APE manual tensioner. Do you have an opinion on this product? The problem was a slight lack of pick up and a taping sound. It started about 2 weeks ago. I took it to the Durham dealership and asked them to fix it. I got a call and was told it was ready. When I went to pick it up Friday they had done a "partial service." Basically they gave me an oil change topped of my fluids which were fine for $160. The tech who filled out the service order said I never mentioned the sound which was the only reason I brought it there. I mentioned it about 5 times. So now I have taken my bike to a mom and pop shop. The mechanic there listened to it and said he did not think it was the valves. He was not sure, but it could be the cam tensioner. He asked me to find out from COG if there was a new and improved tensioner for this model. He mentioned that the part number changed a lot over the years. If you have any insight I would appreciate hearing for you...John

 

[rowmer1]

Hi John, I run mine with the manual adjuster. It works very well, just be careful not to over tighten. After I installed mine I ran the adjuster in until it made contact with the cam chain tensioner. Then I started the bike and made minor adjustments until everything was smooth and quiet. 3000 miles and still perfect. Have you had the valves adjusted?

 

[danodemotoman]

Followed Jim Pavlis' fix for his noisy cam chain. Again like Jim said this was NOT a OEM auto tension problem. Yesterday replaced the rear chain guide and what the heck the cam chain also. The 'knocking noise' is gone and the oem tensioned is doing it's job without having to manually 'encourage' it to tension to the next serration. On the 170 mile ride today it sure seems to have the old snap back! Along with the AV CC and Steve's exhaust cam gear mod it was pleasure to ride, dandacartahmahn

 

[slybonesjesse]

I understand that chain replacement is based on stretch. But is there a corresponding mileage where people start to see cam chains need to be replaced. OR maybe a number of notches in the tensioner. IF the tensioner is out over 50% replace, or 75% ?? Could that be helpful. 2003 Concours, 51K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm

 

[slybonesjesse]

Followed Jim Pavlis' fix for his noisy cam chain.

Is there a link for this. 2003 Concours, 51K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm

 

[jimp]

Sorry, no link as I didn't document how to do it since it's been covered before. Basically... remove the valve cover remove the timing cover on the crank align the timing marks on the plate and cam gears remove the tensioner remove the top chain guide remove the timing plate remove the chain, dropping it out the bottom remove the intake cam to get at the rear guide remove rear guide Reassemble in the reverse order paying close attention to the timing marks - make sure nothing has moved. The chain run between the cam gears will be tighter than you'd expect when installed correctly. Pretty basic stuff, really. Unbolt a bunch of stuff, put new bits in, bolt stuff back on. If you want to do the front guide, you'll have to pull the exhaust cam, also. I didn't because I had been sent the wrong part. HTH Jim