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cleaned carbs did not help

kevin

Training Wheels
still breaks up seams like electrical till warms up tack drops to nothing if you keep it over 3 grand till warmed up its ok stalls some time at intersection i replaced junction box over a year ago i replied more info about instead of editing
 
Kevin, Who worked on the carbs and what did they do? Can you give us more info, what year, how many miles, has it been sitting, etc? Be as specific as possible. Maybe the engine is going south fast and it's on it's last legs? David David in Jax COG# 7898 www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com /reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline. com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zz r1200/index.html
 
As always check the cheap things first. 1. Plugs 2. Vacuum lines 3. Air cleaner 4. Plug wires 5. Coil wires 6. Carbs sync'd? 7. Valves adjusted? 8. Timing chain? Marks lined up? 9. Frayed or worn wires ANYWHERE? 10. Fuel line kinked? Blocked? 11. Carbs properly adjusted? Air fuel mixture? Floats? Jets cleared? AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor 133K and counting! http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)
 
Quote: "1987 65000 miles started acting up last fall put i 16000 miles on her backfires rpm drop if you hold it above 3000 rpms till it marms warms up changed plugs even sprayed carbcleaner over intake and air boots no change in rpms runs good after warmed up some time stalls at stop i do not know when last valve shim done" Am I reading this right? Valve shim? Our C-10 Connies are screw adjuster on the valve tappets. And 16,000 miles riding since you got her? Valve clearance check is 6,000 miles, but has been extended by some after 30,000+ miles. If it really has been 16,000+ since a valve clearance check, I would start there, even if something obvious is discovered in the previous areas to check... my 0.02
 
+1 on what Vic said (Happy Birthday Vic!!!!) It could be a tight valve and riding it a lot further could cause damage. Also, once you get the tank off you can check all the vacuum lines in the process. David in Jax COG# 7898 www.dreamjobresumes.com
 
couple of other potential culprits to investigate if the obvious ones are not the problem. Early connies ( and all other Kowalskis) had problematic ignition switches, the first sign of trouble was having to jiggle the switch to get the tail lite to come on, advanced cases of wear caused system wide trouble. Early mitsubishi igniters were feeble at best on cars and bikes, and while some were problem free others exhibited bizzaro gremlins.And it might sound odd but they have a tendency to be more pronounced when cold or damp.(my 99 dodge dually has a wounded body control module that intermittently shuts off the gauge cluster until it warms up, longer if its damp) also if you do a valve adjustment, make sure to use kawi's timing marks as these cams have very long quieting ramps and if you use the old school method of assuming the heel of the cam is 180 degrees from the top of the lobe you'll be wrong. junk yard dog Remember it's only funny till someone gets hurt.....then its hilarious
 
jYD makes good points. I have a kawasaki voyager igniter that's bad, and it would sure seem like a bad carb problem. Swap your igniters to see if that's the problem. Steve
 
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