Clutch Release Point

[SethInIllinois]

I got my 2002 back together and out on the road this weekend! I bought it last fall non-running (gummed-up carbs), but otherwise in great shape (stored indoors all it's life, and only 12,000 miles). I spent some time this winter going through the worst of the sitting-itis issues, general maintainace, and cleaning up some of the accessory wiring (I despise scotchlocks). It's running beautifully and I'm getting the feel for it, which is quite different than my ZX600-C.

One of those differences is the clutch. My 600 (and all my previous bikes) have been cable clutches with stock fixed levers, but I adjust the cable so the release point is a comfortable distance from the bar. The Connie has Pazzo adjustable shorty levers on it, but even at the closest setting, the release point is farther out than I prefer. It's smooth and a very easy engagement point, but it's farther than I'm used to. It's at nearly the very end of the master cylinder stroke. I searched around the forums and found a few mentions that this is typical for the hydraulic clutches on these, and there isn't any adjustment aside from the lever.

I did a full rebuild of the clutch system this winter, and cleaned out the plugged-up vent port in the master cylinder, so I'm pretty sure it's working the way it should. I used K&L kits from murph, and a new Galfer line.

I have the stock levers, so I'm leaning towards swapping them on and seeing if that's a more comfortable feel. I've never been a 2-finger lever guy anyway.

Anyway, I figured I'd see what the gang all had to say here. I only have 25 miles on so far, so I'm sure there's a lot that I just need some time to develop new muscle memory for (the shift lever is another thing that feels a lot different; the lever on my 600 pivots behind the nub, instead of in front, which is a lot more noticeable difference than I expected). I am loving the bike, though, and am sure I will so more as I get familiar with it. It's very different machine than the 600, and it's fun experiencing the different character of each. The 600 is going to feel like a lightweight dirtbike next time I take it out! (it's not much over 400lbs)

 

[Stasch]

The only adjustment is on the lever itself with the chrome wheel which has 4 settings.

It really only adjusts your reach, not the clutch engagement point.

 

[SethInIllinois]

The only adjustment is on the lever itself with the chrome wheel which has 4 settings.

It really only adjusts your reach, not the clutch engagement point.

My bike came with Pazzo shorty levers. Here's the reach to the Pazzo lever at setting 1 and 6:

 

[ONOBob]

Seth,
Same here, my clutch also engages at the end of the lever release
Nothing like the cable pull clutches Ive had before.
I don't much like it. But,It's never slipped, so I figured it was just the nature of the beast
Bob

 

[connie_rider]

I don't recall an adjustment either, but there's always a way.. <evil grin>
But try the stockers first.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[connie_rider]

Just had a thought.
May be from another motorcycle, and my memory may be off. (???)
Nahhhh!! Not me..

Anyway,,, If I recall right, we put a ball bearing in the area that the push rod fits.
The ball reduces friction and adds a bit of length to the push rod, which changes the endangerment point on the lever. (Engages sooner)

Ride safe, Ted

 

[SethInIllinois]

Just had a thought.
May be from another motorcycle, and my memory may be off. (???)
Nahhhh!! Not me..

Anyway,,, If I recall right, we put a ball bearing in the area that the push rod fits.
The ball reduces friction and adds a bit of length to the push rod, which changes the endangerment point on the lever.

Ride safe, Ted

Actually, I was just thinking along these lines while doing dishes tonight, and thought about shortening the pushrod a little to move the lever back. I have a spare pushrod, since the rebuild kit came with one and the original one was fine too. I believe the end that fits into the brass button on the lever is a square end, so it would be easy to grind or file it shorter without any damage.

I may try that tonight if I have a few minutes.

I'm still not sure about the shorty levers, but since they are already on it, I may give them a bit more time to grow on me before I switch to the stockers.

 

[brotheriam6109752]

Can anybody guide me to the correct clutch master cylinder rebuild kit? 2002 connie

 

[SethInIllinois]

Can anybody guide me to the correct clutch master cylinder rebuild kit? 2002 connie

Murph sells them. His are high-quality K&L, and his shipping is the fastest of most places I order from:

C10 Clutch Master Cylinder Kit

murphskits.com

Edited to add:

When you rebuild the master cylinder, pay special attention to make sure the vent port is clear. There are two small holes between the reservoir and the piston bore. The larger fill port is closer to the open end and sits in a little recess, and the smaller vent port is closer to the output line and is very small. It's common for it to get blocked up with gunk. Be careful not to gouge it up, but make sure it's clear and open before you reassemble the cylinder. When I flush fluid on these master or brake cylinders, I always check that it's clear, which is pretty easy with the cover off, as a quick squeeze on the lever will cause fluid to squirt out in a little fountain if it's working properly.

 

[SethInIllinois]

Update on this as well: I was planning to make a shortened clutch pushrod, but haven't gotten around to it, and in the time since, I have gotten used to the release point and haven't thought about it as much. I still am running the Pazzo lever at the closest setting, though, so I may make a shorter rod when I get a chance.

 

[SethInIllinois]

Update: I found a few minutes to shorten the clutch MC pushrod. I shortened it by 1mm, which moved the release point at the end (of my Pazzo shortly lever) in 13mm. I would prefer to have it farther in so I could run the lever at a more middle adjustment, but I'm afraid that shortening it too much could leave it kind of loose in the bore, since stock it clearly fit snug against the MC piston, and now there's a bit of play. It feels very natural, just like freeplay in a cable clutch, but without looking at it closer, I'm concerned it could result in alignment issues if the rod is too loose.

Anyway, a combination of this small adjustment and me just getting used to the different clutch and it's feeling pretty natural now.

On a similar note, though, I put some miles on my ZX600-C and found the brake lever position to feel far away from the bars. I guess I've gotten used to the adjustable levers on my C10! I still like the full-length levers on the 600, but it has me wondering if I can use a stock adjustable brake lever from a C10 (which I believe was also the same part number used on other Ninjas). The master cylinders sure look the same, but I haven't compared the levers.