Cooling System Woes

[slybonesjesse]

One theory is, if it aint broke dont fix it. My theory of course has always been, if it aint broke, fix it until it is. So I decided to get Murphs cooling hose set and replace my hoses along with the coolant change this winter. I figure they are 6+ years old. My clymer does not give a maintenace interval for them, at least I saw. But I figure like brake lines and fuel lines, every 4 years was not completely out of whack. And its been over 6 years. So anyways I get them all changed and fill her back up. Barely get it topped off and move around to the water pump side to open the air bleed. I barely kneel down and I see its dripping on the other side. After a carefull examination by myself and getting a second opinion, it appears to be leaking from spot where the thermostat housing mounts to the long tube coming from the head. That tube has a spout that comes up to the thermostat housing. The housing seems on top of that. I am wondering if the movement, torque, of the thermostat housing being moved as I remove the upper coolant hose as broken loose some seal or o-ring, etc. Anyone ever remove the thermostat housing before? I am too bummed out to read the manual at the moment. 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm

 

[colinp386]

Fred; What your experiencing is not that uncommon. It often happens when folks take their valve cover off without taking care, and they tweak the thermostat. The O-ring and joint between the water manifold and thermostat housing is a little temperamental. I suggest you drain a pint or so of the coolant, slacken the hose clamp on the thermostat and re-seat the thermostat by a couple of sharp taps on the top of the stat. Then tighten the hose clamp taking care not to tweak the stat again. If that fails you need to remove the stat which is a bit of a PITA, and replace the o-ring (I may have one). If I recall correctly you remove the carb-rack and then remove the 4mm bolt from under the LHS of the stat ant it will lift off (just) If you have to remove the coolant manifold you MUST replace the o-rings as those suckers will leak. Call me if you need more info C. Colin Prior COG IT Director Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764 ROK#20000617

 

[slybonesjesse]

So you do have to remove the carbs to get that sucker out? Dang. I guess will be doing them float levels too. 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm

 

[suzukijay]

If you have some penetrating oil it might make things easier if you can shoot some on the secton where you are having the leak between the housing and O-ring. Let it sit overnight and work its magic. Don't be too forceful when trying to take the housing. Don't even think about using anything like a pipe wrench, screwdriver, etc. or anything that you might be inclined to use as a pry bar on the thermostat housing.

 

[kawani]

I just ran into this myself doing a valve adjustment!!! just pop in a new o-ring if its never been changed and it fixes it in a jiffy, their right its easier if you pull the carbs otherwise it is nightmarish to get out if it's even possible I was glad I had an o-ring the right size as when it got tweaked it cut a nice slice in it unless that was from something else but it wasn't that bad to fix thankfully. Todd

 

[millerized]

The o-ring is notorious for turning into mush. Any movement turns mush to goo and we all know goo leaks better than mush. You can do the work without pullng carbs, but if you have any work to do to the carbs this would be the perfect time. I use a small wrench when doing it with the carbs on, ending up turning a flat (1/6th of a turn) at a time pulling out the screws. Takes a while, tries your patience and increases your vocabulary....well...4 letters at a time. Also, pull the manifold off the back of the cylinder block and replace those 4 o-rings also. Hey....while you're in there....might as well http://millerized.com/pegs I'll be in the garage

COG 6425, CDA 111 a through g

 

[Paulie]

No good deed goes unpunished, eh?! Good luck with the fix. The ~3" hose in front of the engine behind header #2 is the usual culprit. I wonder if any of the others have been known to leak??? 01 Conc, Mijami Floriduh OTP 06: http://tinyurl.com/2vk9o2 route map: http://tinyurl.com/4p7pmd

 

[slybonesjesse]

Well I guess the only thing to decide now is to order O-rings or just hope Home Depot has the right one. -- Thinking order. Do it tonight and they'll be here before Colin gets my carbs done. Paulie, I sure hope the one behind the header is a common culprit. I changed that hose too. Dont recall applying all that much pressure, but then I dont recall that on the thermostat either. I guess I should order plenty of o-rings just in case. 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm

 

[colinp386]

before Colin gets my carbs done.

Did I miss something LoL Like I said, I may have an O-ring for that sucker, but they are cheap enough to purchase. Given the design of the assy. it has quite a lot of leverage, so its easy to tweak it out of alignment, and once its leaking.... Colin Prior COG IT Director Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764 ROK#20000617

 

[slybonesjesse]

Did I miss something LoL

It was a test. You Pass. 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm