My rear tire TPMS battery is low and this thing is continuously on my dash. can I disable/delete that function altogether for both wheels or I have to live with the annoyance as long as I have the bike? While it is nice to have I survive without one on other bikes for decades and do not want to spend money replacing these.
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Disabling and/or removing TPMS function altogether
- Thread starter brico
- Start date
You can physically remove them, wait until the batteries die (completely) or use KDS and remove the entries from the ecu.
When the battery goes completely dead it will no longer show up. At least that's what happened on my 09.
Deepsea said:
Yup. That's the easiest way. Then when you change your tires you can remove them and use the angled valve stems....The Gold Wing angled valve stems will screw onto the older tpms (like on the '09s) but won't on the newer ones.
Syxxphive said:
Well, its actually 3.3333 ft/lbs...
And is correct, ... but do the 40 in/lbs torque... don't over tighten, its aluminum... and hollow... and has a rubber seal...
As for testing prior to installing, after a battery swap, I highly recommend that... save the aggrivation of a bad solder joint or a defective battery..
If you have a bicycle, or not, if not, borrow the neighbor kids bike, and tape the monitor inside the rear rim between the spokes, tape it in well... then turn the bike upside down, turn on your motorcycle, and crank the pedals on the bicycle to simulate the rotation, crank it up good and keep cranking... oh, make sure the hicycle is sitting next to your motorcycle... within a similar distance as the normal mounted tire would be in... if the display shows up and sees it, all good, install and get er done.. if not, re do the solder joints and check the batt volts...
You can also simulate the tire rotation by tying the sensor to a stout piece of string, and apply some tape to prevent it coming free, and spin the sensor around in a circle for a minute or so... it should read from that also... just don't whack the sensor on something solid... :rotflmao: :rotflmao:
Deepsea said:
I removed the batteries from mine when they went dead but left the censors in place, the batteries never seemed to last more than 2 or 3 seasons and every time they were replaced they were corroded. Topping up tire pressure from an air tank that has a little bit of moisture in it starts the corrosion cycle all over again.
PG.
I left the front one out when I changed to a BST CF wheel. The rear is still in and working.
What is KDS? I purchased mine August of 2009. The bike still has the original 12 volt battery. I just want to get rid of tpms. I've been pushing the 2 buttons since 2012 right after new tires were installed.AmphibSailor said:
Rick_Stiles_WY said:
Bummer, should have had them replaced under OEM warranty when they went bad, or taken advantage of the low priced warranty extensions we provided links to... they would have been covered...
To answer the KDS thing, its the software package, and bike interface connections and periferals, that allow reprogramming the bikes ECU's when things like TPMS and key fobs are replaced, ... iit programs the bike to recognize the new replaced electrical part, and communicate with it as it did with the original parts.
It is also the vital tool, used to extract codes for errors, and troubleshoot problems with the bikes stored history in its ECU.
I have ridden hundreds of motorcycles over 40 plus years and this is the first with TPMS. I don't get it, have never had an issue, have had a few flats on the road and deal with them. For the price and hassle, these things should fix the leak on the fly, or why bother? I check tires before each ride and just know what an under inflated bun feels and acts like. Do not want to take to much of the rider out of the action of riding, might as well get an autonomous car.
"Do not want to take to much of the rider out of the action of riding, might as well get an autonomous car"
That is exactly why I ride a non abs 2009. :great:
That is exactly why I ride a non abs 2009. :great:
I've been doing a lot of searching. Recently bought a concours 14 that had the TPMS sensor batteries completely die and TPMS is not an option when I scroll through the menu. I've since replaced the batteries. How do I make the option available again? If this has been discussed before, I apologize. When I search for anything TPMS related, I'm inundated with ways to disable it. Not to re-enable it.
Guys, I have what may be a stupid question, but I’ve searched the forum and am still confused.
Bought my 2015 last November, it still has the OEM tires on it. I’ll be putting new tires on within the next few weeks. TPMS is working fine. I bought the GTPP 3 year extended warranty through the deal offered here at Ultimate Cycle. Does that warranty cover TPMS replacement? If it does, I’ll let the batteries die; if it doesn’t, I may bite the bullet and have the sensors replaced when the new tires are mounted.
Thanks!
Bought my 2015 last November, it still has the OEM tires on it. I’ll be putting new tires on within the next few weeks. TPMS is working fine. I bought the GTPP 3 year extended warranty through the deal offered here at Ultimate Cycle. Does that warranty cover TPMS replacement? If it does, I’ll let the batteries die; if it doesn’t, I may bite the bullet and have the sensors replaced when the new tires are mounted.
Thanks!
Bud said:
Thanks Bud!
Yeah, the Tire Pressure system has saved me a couple of times too. First time I was able to get air and make it home. Once home I plugged the leak. Then I was in MT running down the road at speeds that won't get you stopped in MT but still over the speed limit a bit. My warning light comes on and the dash indicates a low rear tire. Only had a couple of miles to go to a Harley dealer who pointed me to a metric dealer after putting air in the tire.
The front sensor died several years ago but the rear was still kicking after 10 years. I have the early sensors and I sent them to Fred Harmon because my soldering ability has gone way. Fred has a quick turn around. He also sent the readout sheets from his machine that tells him if the sensors are reading.
First ride with the new batteries...I aired both tires to 42 psi. After rolling a short distance under power the sensors came alive and both indicated 42 psi. Before the readings would have been close but not matching and a couple psi higher than what was put in. This time as the tires warmed up the indicated air pressures remained paired.
I also have a non tsps motorcycle. I put air in the tires when I think about it and always have to put some air in.
Personally I like monitoring Tire pressure over gas mileage or battery voltage.
The front sensor died several years ago but the rear was still kicking after 10 years. I have the early sensors and I sent them to Fred Harmon because my soldering ability has gone way. Fred has a quick turn around. He also sent the readout sheets from his machine that tells him if the sensors are reading.
First ride with the new batteries...I aired both tires to 42 psi. After rolling a short distance under power the sensors came alive and both indicated 42 psi. Before the readings would have been close but not matching and a couple psi higher than what was put in. This time as the tires warmed up the indicated air pressures remained paired.
I also have a non tsps motorcycle. I put air in the tires when I think about it and always have to put some air in.
Personally I like monitoring Tire pressure over gas mileage or battery voltage.
Neil said:
) ) )by the dashboard readings...
and the big tire goes on the rear of the bike....
the sensors are the same, just don't remove them, and toss them on a bench, without marking which one came from which tire... doh...
Neil said:
oh, ok...
thought it was a silly question, thus my silly answer... sorry...
so...
get a pice of stout string, about 2 foot long.. tie it around one sensor, then wrap some masking tape around it to make sure its well attached.
Then, turn on the bike, start the engine, stand within 4 feet of the bike, and holding the string firmly, spin the string and sensor while looking at the dash display (set to tire pressure mode)... when one pops up on the display, with zero p.s.i. , mark the one you spun as F or R, the one that isn't "spun" will show up with "---" on the display.
hope that helps.
I actually turn my mountain bike upside down, and tape the sensor inside the spokes of the rear wheel against the rim, and crank the pedals up to speed, and get the reading on a sensor being tested, within a couple feet of the bicycle/motorcycle combo..
If these are "new" and never programmed to the ECU, you will get the same "---" as a dead old one... so you may still have an issue..
also, with that being said, and not knowing if these sensors are new/old/whatever, dead batt, or fresh, write down everything on the sensor label, paying close attention to the ID and code numbers associated with them... for each... as if they are "new" ones, and were never input using the KDS3 programming, you need that set of numbers when installed, to input into the software, by someone doing the programming of the ECU at that time... unless ya wanna peel the tire off again, while it's in the Kaw dealer getting programmed.
what year bike? what p/n on sensor?
maybe look at this also, as if it's an older bike, the p/n may tell you it's a newer sensor, maybe, and never programmed... anyways write everything on the sensor down on paper.. and read this;
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=24016.msg300608#msg300608
old style 21176-0107 '08 thru '13
replaced by
21176-0125 SENSOR,TPMS 315MHZ
from '10 thru '13
these had the "no hex" stems, and you could cut them open and replace your battery if desired
new style listed as from '14 thru current model...
these had the "hex" on the stem, and were "sealed" internally.. not happy for replacement of battery without extreme p.i.t.a. effort
21176-0748 SENSOR,TPMS 315MHZ
note; those are the part numbers, you still need to write down the other data marked on the labels.. the code numbers...
best of luck