Engine install

[Jim_Rau_WI]

I'm looking for help with my Concours. I'm replacing the motor (the old one hydrolocked and broke a rod which went through the case). I have a 2001 and I'm installing a motor from a 2002. I can't get the motor into position to install the mounting bolts. What is the best way to tilt, twist, angle, or otherwise manouver the thing into place??? Does it go in from the right or left? with the back up first or the front up first? Seems like it must be something like removing the valve cover - it works if you know how to do it. I have the motor screwed to a plate mount which is mounted onto a floor jack so I can roll it around and jack it up. But the valve cover hits the front mounts before I can get the final drive through the hole in the frame to move it far enough rearward. Or if I move it to the rear to get the front mounts first then the final drive won't fit up through the hole. There is no helpful informatioin in the K shop manual. If you can't answer, do you know anyone else who could? Any other sources or information???

 

[JohnC]

Jim: According to Steve in sunny Fl, remove the rear portion of the right angle drive at the left rear of the engine. Also, don't try this with the carbs on, remove them. Raise the engine with some type of jack/s, putting the lower rear section into position first. Slide the lower rear bolt in first, then raise the front and put the front bolts in. Then put the upper rear bolt. Now at this point (all the bolts in but loose) you will need to check the clearance on the front mounting bolts, they will most likely need to be shimmed. Once you have them shimmed (just enough to fill the loose space) then you can start torquing the bolts. I always do this in steps until the specified torque is attained. As for torque values, check your manual. I'd suggest you contact Steve in Fl, as to the best time to put the right angle drive back in, as I don't remember when I put mine back in place. But I do remember that having it removed made things a lot better at the start. tcars John

 

[colinp386]

Hi Jim The engine goes in from the Left (final drive) side. You can leave the valve cover on, but make sure you don't have the carb rack installed. The rear engine bolt upper or lower is installed first then rotate the engine up to fit the front bolt. I suggest you use 3 people to "hand" the engine into the frame. I have used 2 methods one is to simply put a block of 2x4 on a trolley jack and roll it under with folks guiding it in, The other is to chock it up on a hand cart and roll it in. See picture below and others on my webshots page. The engine comes 'up' from below, so you probably don't have the engine low enough. Put the bike on the center stand on a 1" sheet of wood (see picture) position it on the LHS of the bike and roll it in, you need to tilt it forward first then once the head mounting points are between the lugs raise the engine and rotate it, then slide the rear bolt in then the front bolt, then the other rear bolt. Make sure you torque the bolts correctly, You probably need to have the swinging arm loose and back or removed completely, which you need to do any way to fit the final drive shaft. If you get real stuck let me know. I'm back from Denmark on the 6th

 

[colinp386]

remove the rear portion of the right angle drive at the left rear of the engine

It does make it easier to remove the Bevel Drive unit, but it's not absolutely essential

 

[Jim_Rau_WI]

Thanks all for the advice. I guess I built my engine stand too snug. I left it loose enough to wiggle some, but not loose enough to tilt. The engine is front-heavy and I didn't want to drop it. I'll have to send my engine mounting plate design back to the engineering department. Jim

 

[bergmen]

I used an engine hoist (same as you would for an automotive engine R&R) and came down from the top:

Some experimentation with the rigging that allows proper attitude is necessary but I found this method to be very useful. I was able to jockey things around without help this way. These can be rented for pretty cheap but I just went ahead and bought one (just in case I need to do an engine-ectomy in the future). JMHO Dan

 

[Jim_Rau_WI]

Thanks Dan That looks like a good idea. I have an engine hoist, chain, eye-bolts, etc. sitting nearby. I'll try your suggestion. The engine is mounted to my floor jack and positioned under the bike now. I can just hook up the engine hoist with chains straddling the frame and pick it off the floor jack. Only difference is my bike is blue. It is supposed to be sub zero the next few days so that might be a good project to work on. That dis-assembled Concours is taking up a lot of room in my garage. I'd like to put it back together even if I can't ride it till April (hopefully April) - could be May. Thanks again, Jim

 

[bergmen]

I replaced that engine with this one:

It's all better now. Dan

 

[tom_epp_NC]

hey dan, that looks like a sweet motor you've got there. might that be the 1200 i've read about? :eg: i hope the motor in my connie stays right where it is for a good long time but i've done the balancing act with a floor jack on several different bikes and i'll be filing this little tip in the memory banks for future use. hmmmm, use an engine hoist to remove an engine brilliant...man...BRILLIANT!! thanks, tom ;p

 

[Jim_Rau_WI]

The engine hoist worked great. I used a turnbuckle in one of the side chains to adjust right-to-left tilt and a prusik knot (sliding knot) on a rope to the rear of the engine to adjust front-to-back tilt. It was a lot easier than removing the output drive. This method should be documented for subsequent inquiries. Thanks again, Jim

 

[Steve in sunny Fla]

Not questioning that using the engine hoist makes for an easy install, but the only part of the final drive that needs to be pulled is the output gear, and it comes out by pulling 4 small 6mm bolts. that's pretty easy too - perhaps you thought the whole bevel drive need to be removed? not so. anyways, glad you got it! Steve