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finishing up BW header install

H

hammerash

Member
Member
Finally got around to installing BW header and Delkevic muffler. I have a couple questions.

should the O2 sensors be cleaned up at all? I have seen some suggest vinegar or ultrasonic cleaner. Or just put them back in. anti-seize on threads?

Just checking, the black sensor is for cylinder 1,4 and the grey for 2,3. Is that correct?

header nuts listed at only 13 in-lbs. seems pretty loose. is that correct? anti-seize on these nuts? both these and the O2 came off pretty easily on my 30k mile bike so maybe not needed?

instructions say fit everything, then tighten. I know on these forums someone (Maverick9611) said they had leak (I assume at the head/pipe junction) and loosened and took apart and then re-tightened and re-fit and leak gone. Any others have issues doing it the way BW suggests? They also say to try without the paste at first, heat it up and see if leaks at joints. If leaks, then disassemble and try paste. Are most not using paste?
 
Ok, I answered some of my own questions. I do see I was correct in which O2 sensor goes where.

I also see that torque of header nuts is 13 ft- lbs. Strangely, the factory service manual says 13 in-lbs in the text with assembly steps. But in beginning of chapter it says ft-lbs. But both list value at 17 N-m, which converts to 13 ft-lbs.
 
hammerash said:
Finally got around to installing BW header and Delkevic muffler. I have a couple questions.

should the O2 sensors be cleaned up at all? I have seen some suggest vinegar or ultrasonic cleaner. Or just put them back in. anti-seize on threads?

Just checking, the black sensor is for cylinder 1,4 and the grey for 2,3. Is that correct?

header nuts listed at only 13 in-lbs. seems pretty loose. is that correct? anti-seize on these nuts? both these and the O2 came off pretty easily on my 30k mile bike so maybe not needed?

instructions say fit everything, then tighten. I know on these forums someone (Maverick9611) said they had leak (I assume at the head/pipe junction) and loosened and took apart and then re-tightened and re-fit and leak gone. Any others have issues doing it the way BW suggests? They also say to try without the paste at first, heat it up and see if leaks at joints. If leaks, then disassemble and try paste. Are most not using paste?
Click to expand...
Save yourself a mess and skip the paste.

I have the AreaP Full Exhaust, yes different but I had zero leaks.

After hearing the mess of this exhaust paste from a couple - no thank you!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Carb cleaner is fine to clean the 02 sensors. After a few heat cycles, revisit the header nut torque. Don’t use the paste. Mount up the head pipes and leave everything loose until you have encouraged everything to line up stress free, then systematically tighten. Now is the time to install the velocity cone I wrote about in my vendor area. It will sharpen light throttle response and I actually saw a 3 hp gain on the dyno.
 
If you decide that you want something to ensure seal, use a little high temperature silicone. (Gold)
It will help the seal, it will withstand the temperatures, and (unlike the paste) is easily removable.
And DO install the velocity cone.

Question; Do you have a Flash in your bike? If yes, you may not need the oxygen sensors.

Ride safe, Ted
 
connie_rider said:
If you decide that you want something to ensure seal, use a little high temperature silicone. (Gold)
It will help the seal, it will withstand the temperatures, and (unlike the paste) is easily removable.
And DO install the velocity cone.

Question; Do you have a Flash in your bike? If yes, you may not need the oxygen sensors.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
Ted, he has a very cool / unique flash in which I still use the 02 sensors. Really stretching the tuning limits too, because it's for an aftermarket exhaust system AND still using the sensors.

Steve
 
Thx all. Yes Steve, I already have the 1.5" adapter. it is marked and ready to cut.

Ted, I have Steve's MRP flash for Black Widow header with O2 sensors. It is already installed, waiting for completion of exhaust install.
 
hammerash said:
Finally got around to installing BW header and Delkevic muffler. I have a couple questions.

should the O2 sensors be cleaned up at all? I have seen some suggest vinegar or ultrasonic cleaner. Or just put them back in. anti-seize on threads?

Just checking, the black sensor is for cylinder 1,4 and the grey for 2,3. Is that correct?

header nuts listed at only 13 in-lbs. seems pretty loose. is that correct? anti-seize on these nuts? both these and the O2 came off pretty easily on my 30k mile bike so maybe not needed?

instructions say fit everything, then tighten. I know on these forums someone (Maverick9611) said they had leak (I assume at the head/pipe junction) and loosened and took apart and then re-tightened and re-fit and leak gone. Any others have issues doing it the way BW suggests? They also say to try without the paste at first, heat it up and see if leaks at joints. If leaks, then disassemble and try paste. Are most not using paste?
Click to expand...
I suggest to not use any paste unless absolutely necessary. When I installed this spring, I checked clearance to the fairing lowers and pasted the joints on the final tightening. When the entire fairing was assembled… I found that the shape changed and had the pipe touching the lower. It took paying the local muffler guy to work at it with a torch for an hour to finally get the pipes apart. The adjustment and tightening was done dry. I saw a couple small black deposits and just tapped the joints to get them to seat. The end result is great as there are no leaks and it sounds awesome!!!
 
rlievenski4555, I remember reading about your adventures with the paste, which is why I wanted to see what others were doing. I got it all installed, just haven't tightened it yet. ran into an issue-Delkevic shorted me on a part. starting a new thread to see if I can get help with fabricating something till I can get the part from them.
 
hammerash said:
rlievenski4555, I remember reading about your adventures with the paste, which is why I wanted to see what others were doing. I got it all installed, just haven't tightened it yet. ran into an issue-Delkevic shorted me on a part. starting a new thread to see if I can get help with fabricating something till I can get the part from them.
Click to expand...
Hope that you can get a part and finish the install. I enjoy the sound, when the revs climb, every day!
 
rlievenski4555 said:
I suggest to not use any paste unless absolutely necessary. When I installed this spring, I checked clearance to the fairing lowers and pasted the joints on the final tightening. When the entire fairing was assembled… I found that the shape changed and had the pipe touching the lower. It took paying the local muffler guy to work at it with a torch for an hour to finally get the pipes apart. The adjustment and tightening was done dry. I saw a couple small black deposits and just tapped the joints to get them to seat. The end result is great as there are no leaks and it sounds awesome!!!
Click to expand...
Where was it rubbing lower? Was it part of Tri-Y or header pipe rubbing? Did you have to loosen the header nuts to push tubes around to get clearance? You tapped where leaks were? To get slip fittings further inside? The only clearance I checked so far is what BW shows-oil filter access and 2 areas around engine. I think I'll use factory muffler to mock up things to check fairing clearance so i can get bike back together while wait on bracket Delkevic sending.
 
hammerash said:
Where was it rubbing lower? Was it part of Tri-Y or header pipe rubbing? Did you have to loosen the header nuts to push tubes around to get clearance? You tapped where leaks were? To get slip fittings further inside? The only clearance I checked so far is what BW shows-oil filter access and 2 areas around engine. I think I'll use factory muffler to mock up things to check fairing clearance so i can get bike back together while wait on bracket Delkevic sending.
Click to expand...
I suggest to get the header pipes as close as possible to the oil filter allowing for removal. The lower pipes were pressed against the right lower cowel edge. I saw a bit of soot on the joint between one of the first y pipes and the bigger Y pipes. Lightly tapping on it allowed the springs to pull the pipes together a bit more. Likely would have happened anyway through heat and cool cycles.
 
I'm missing what they call drop down bracket. Just flat piece of metal that hangs muffler lower, 1½" per a reply in other thread.

Thx. Maybe try and move that way a bit. I have lot of clearance in areas mentioned. Maybe need to pull it a little tighter to avoid right lower.
 
Loews / Home Depot and most Hardware stores sale Aluminum flat stock that you can use to build a Drop Down Bracket.
On my bike I use 2 Drop Down brackets for "each" muffler. (NOTE: I have 2 Area P Mufflers on mine)
ie; I installed a drop-down bracket on both sides of the OEM Muffler hangar. (one inside and one outside)
The 2 bracket idea made the muffler's more secure.

On the 1.5" Adapter / Velocity cone I'm gonna make a (test) suggestion.
Install it when you put the muffler on and ride the bike for a while.
Get to know how the bike feels.
After a period of time remove it and ride the bike again.
I bet you will really notice the reduction in power after you remove it.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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