• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Fork questions/suggestions

G

GKreamer

Street Cruiser
So, like many C10s my front end dives when braking.  I'd like to do something about that, but am low on funds at the moment.

I have a 2002 with 47K miles and am not the lightest rider (300 lbs.).  I had bought some 15WT fork oil past year but did not get around to changing it yet.  I have done nothing to the suspension other than air up the stock rear shock to 30lbs and set adjuster to 4, absolutely nothing to the forks yet.  I see no leaks in the forks at all so should I replace seals?

Any suggestions?
 
Do a search on "cut fork spring".  Lots of info available.  You can remove 3 to 4 inches from the upper portion of the OEM fork springs and install a spacer of the same length you removed.  This will help along with the 15wt fork oil.
 
Jim said:
Do a search on "cut fork spring".  Lots of info available.  You can remove 3 to 4 inches from the upper portion of the OEM fork springs and install a spacer of the same length you removed.  This will help along with the 15wt fork oil.
Click to expand...

Will do!  Thx for the tip and for not suggesting a salad! :))
 
Yes do the reseach. Read carefully cutting the springs is not the correct answer
for everyone. In your case you may have to go with stronger springs.
As I said read carefully and think about your situation.
 
Part of the reason for this post is that the front suspension doesn't seem to dampen anything, bumps,small pavement imperfections, even the 1/2" lip to get into my garage.  In addition it is also fairly noisy.  Just want to tighten up what I can and hopefully improve the ride.
 
Freddy said:
GKreamer said:
  I see no leaks in the forks at all so should I replace seals?

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Yes.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fork-Oil-Seals-Dust-Seals-Bushes-Kit-Kawasaki-GTR-1000-ZG1000-96-99-/390323604739?hash=item5ae1198d03:g:CAcAAOSwYHxWKEU8

This kit fits both early and later zg1000 forks.
Click to expand...

I'm with RWulf,
If they don't leak, don't mess with them....
The kit you noted is not OEM parts, so there is a possability that pulling perfectly functioning parts out, and replacing them for no reason, may result in questionable lifespan... I've seen forkseals last 100k miles, and when someone switches them just for the sake of doing so, they ended up leaking right from the start, and repetitious replacements ensued, mostly at inopportune times and places...

Also your link is for an Aussie dealer, if I did buy parts, id try to buy domestic, and also OEM, as if they don't work, a phone call won't end up costing more than the parts... :rotflmao:

Its just my opinion tho.  Coffeebreak (Jenn) just went thru this very experience recently, and I know how frustrating that turned out... I think she went thru 3 sets before she got a good seal.
 
My opinion of the C10 stock front suspension  was that it borders on dangerous as it would nose dive to the bottom of the shocks  with  normal braking and I weigh 235 lbs.  Rebound was horrible. There is not a whole lot that can be done with emulsion tube suspension but at the very least install Gold emulators and Sonic straight weight springs and the thickest fork oil I could find to control rebound and then I had something.
  The stock  rear shock-- horrible. 
 
The ebay kit is supplied out of UK.  You US folks have greater choice.  :)  I have used that kit on my '92.  It comes with bushes.  My guess for leaking fork seals after replacement is that they were not installed correctly or without new bushes.  The parts are cheap whoever supplies em, so if you have to get in there to do the springs........

:beerchug:
 
I went Daytona Mike's route.  It's not the cheap way out, but it makes
a big difference.  Puts a lot more SPORT in the front end.
 
Thanks for the replies guys!  I was wrong, the lip to get into my garage is 1" and if I coast into it the front suspension bottoms out.  I have emulators arriving tomorrow I think.  I'm not a very aggressive rider, so I'm gonna try SiSF's solution and then, if needed, go to heavier springs.

Thanks for your response!!
 
Freddy said:
The ebay kit is supplied out of UK.  You US folks have greater choice.  :)  I have used that kit on my '92.  It comes with bushes.  My guess for leaking fork seals after replacement is that they were not installed correctly or without new bushes.  The parts are cheap whoever supplies em, so if you have to get in there to do the springs........

:beerchug:
Click to expand...

Understood,.and your '92 had air assist forks, which by design, and age, will.tend to leak after.time... my '86 forks never leaked, and I replaced the springs somewhere around 95k miles, with Progressive from Murphs, never had to replace seals, even tho the former owner gave me a set of OEM ones, and bushings..
Once the "air" was not a part of the suspension, never had a problem.. which I never had prior either.
I still say if a seal isn't leaking, cross fingers and wait till it does
 
MAN OF BLUES said:
Understood,.and your '92 had air assist forks, which by design, and age, will.tend to leak after.time... my '86 forks never leaked, and I replaced the springs somewhere around 95k miles, with Progressive from Murphs, never had to replace seals, even tho the former owner gave me a set of OEM ones, and bushings..
Once the "air" was not a part of the suspension, never had a problem.. which I never had prior either.
<snip
Click to expand...

Too true - they were leaking when I got it 3-4 years ago.  I fitted Wilber progressive springs and did away with the air.
 
I am in the middle of the upgrade/install of the RaceTech emulators and Sonic 1.2 springs.  Based upon the instructions for the springs I determined the spacers need to be 6 1/8" (6 3/4"-5/8"=6 1/8").  I cut the first one spot on, but screwed up the second by 1/16", so it is 6 1/16".

Can I go with that?  If yes, should I try and shave 1/16" off of the first one?  If no, can I just go to Lowe's and pick up some PVC that matches dimensionally?


Thanks!
 
First thing I would do is order some Sonic 1.2 springs and use either 15 or 20 wt. fork oil. That will tighten it up quite a bit. Do not buy progressive springs, they are a waste of money.
 
MAN OF BLUES said:
Simple answer to your 3 last questions:
No
Yes
Yes

Measure 3 times
Cut once.
:rotflmao:
Click to expand...

Thanks MOB!  I bought some SCH40 3/4" PVC and I'll cut a new 6 1/8" spacer.  Shaving 1/16" off seems too problematic.  Good news is 5' is the shortest length they sell so I get lots of chances if needed...
 
GKreamer said:
MAN OF BLUES said:
Simple answer to your 3 last questions:
No
Yes
Yes

Measure 3 times
Cut once.
:rotflmao:
Click to expand...

Thanks MOB!  I bought some SCH40 3/4" PVC and I'll cut a new 6 1/8" spacer.  Shaving 1/16" off seems too problematic.  Good news is 5' is the shortest length they sell so I get lots of chances if needed...
Click to expand...

Heck, I would have just bumped the long piece on my belt sander, and been done with it... remember, you can always add washers on top, or between, to increase the stack height as desired.... frugal fix is good fix... make sure you remove all those pesky plastic chips and ragged stuff...

As for Progressive (brand) springs, I find them perfectly acceptable as an affordable alternative for older bikes, nothing wrong with them, they do improve the feel drastically over stock ones... they have a higher spring rate, and it is an improvement that allows pre 94's to do away with the air addition, which in turn, greatly enhances longevity of the seals..  I call it a "stage one" level improvement, .... not everyone wants to spend $$$$$$$ on a 30 old motorcycle, chasing "perfection", at the cost they will never see returned if they decide to buy a new bike.  Jmho. :motonoises:
 
Whenever riders are talking about the merits of progressive springs, it may be important to clarify the BRAND Progressive Springs, or the TYPE of springs called progressive. 

Preferences vary, but from what I've read, many riders don't recommend progressive TYPE springs, but the BRAND Progressive has been around for a long time and seems to make a respected product.  YMMV
 
Good point TinDog.
I think everyone here was talking about the Progressive Brand springs, not the progressive wound springs..

Ride safe, Ted

PS: The stock springs are progressively wound.
 
TinDog said:
Whenever riders are talking about the merits of progressive springs, it may be important to clarify the BRAND Progressive Springs, or the TYPE of springs called progressive. 

Preferences vary, but from what I've read, many riders don't recommend progressive TYPE springs, but the BRAND Progressive has been around for a long time and seems to make a respected product.  YMMV
Click to expand...

Yep, my bad... I didn't capitoloze the words, and yes,  meant Progressive "Brand", not "type"...
:truce:

I'll fix my post...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top