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Fork spacer question


So I’m finishing up my fork rebuild and update. Installed all new OEM parts, RaceTech Gold emulators with yellow springs, drilled additional compression holes. All per Racetech instructions.
At the final point of setting the fork spring preload. Custom set up sheet for a 0.92 kg/mm spring would require a 25mm fork spring preload. This would be an almost 1” spacer ?
Reading thru instructions show to place spring, washer, spacer tube, washers and cap together with tube fully extended.
Measuring from top of tube to lip of fork cap and this gives me 161.9 mm.
Tried tech support but was on hold for 20 minutes listening to Bugs Bunny Muzak😝
Thought I’d try here.
First time doing suspension work and may just be overthinking it.
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After much research in the way back files.
Had to figure out the proper search terms.😃
Decided to start with a 4” spacer. Nice thing is that it isn’t too difficult to make adjustments in the future if needed.
Also going with the recommendation to pull the cotter pin from the preload to ease cap reinstall.


Crag, 4" sounds excessive.
Compare the stock spring length, "vs" the new spring length plus the top section of the Emulator.
The spacer length should be the difference of those 2 measurement's.

After your done, see if you can set the front suspension sag.
With NO preload added on your adjuster;
If you have too much sag; increase the length of the spacer.
If you can't get enough sag; decrease the length of the spacer.

Ideally, you want the spacer/sag set so that it requires the use of (about 1/2 of your available adjustment) to reach the sag you want.
(You can then increase or decrease the sag with your adjustment)

Ride safe, Ted
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For reference:

With 1.0 springs and emulators I cut spacers to 1/4 below top of fork tube. This gave me 28mm of preload with weight of bike only. 39mm sag with me on it.

Then added about 4.5 mm or so in total of stacked washers to top of spacers to get a 20mm preload and 35 mm sag with me on it.

I weigh in with gear to ride at 300lbs or so for reference.

Next time I change fork oil will cut longer tubes maybe. Just to make it easier by not having to keep washers in place while compressing spring on reassembly.