• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Grrrr......

atoughram

atoughram

Guest
Guest
So, I'm trying to change my front tire today...

Front fender came off ok...
The caliper bolts TWISTED my Craftsman 6mm Hex Socket....  So much for the 25 ft/lbs of torque spec...
The axle pinch bolts were so tight I had to rattle gun three of them off after mostly rounding the inside one on the right side! (So much for the 15 ft/lb spec)

So here's my issue, the inside axle pinch bolt on the right side - It's pretty much gnarled up but I can still get a bit of a bite on it - I'll need a fresh socket because my Craftsman is pretty boogered too.  I've put PB Blaster on the bolt.  How can I get this thing out without dinging up the fork??  I cant really heat it.  Any suggestions???  I'll be putting it all back together with a torque wrench.

I might just take the dern thing to the dealer for a tire change... 

 
Agreed with Cap'n Bob, shouldn't have to take your front fender off to change out the tire. I have had a caliper bolt strip out on me also. I had to drill it out and then get an extractor bit in it, tok a bit but no issues. You should get some extractor bit's and sockets for occasions like these.  Good luck...

Motor
 
I took the fender off because it said to in the Kawi service manual.  I dont have a good bike lift and am doing it on the center stand.  I have easy-out's and drill bits...  I guess if thats what it takes, I'm sure glad it's not a blind hole!
 
Taking the front fender loose but not off does make it much easier. As far as the bolt's seizing up, that is whats happening. I've had the same issue. The brake heat, stainless bolt along with the aluminum fork leg cause a reaction (same as a spark plug in an aluminun head). Therefore the bolt will seize up.  Do not put the bolt's back in without anti seize compund on them!

You should'nt have any more problem's.  :beerchug:
 
Have you had the bolts off before?
On the C-10 they had locktite on them.
You can't heat it  with a torch, but you could use a heat gun. Not as hot but might help?

Ride safe, Ted
 
Heat gun.....  Now there's a good idea!  :beerchug:

I've never had the bolts off, I've only owned the bike for a month, BUT, it doesnt have stock tires so I'm assuming that the bolts have been off in the past.  The problem is not the heat on the pinch bolts....  It's that some idiot put them on with a impact wrench....  I might have it out today - who knows.  I'll try staking a new socket into the bolt and if that doesnt work, I've got a 1/4" reverse fluted drill waiting.
 
Try holding a soldering iron on and or around it too. May have to sit there awhile an consume a adult beverage but should give you some direct heat where you need it without the blast effect.
 
I use torches for work. You can use them around
delicate parts. Anything delicate can be wrapped
with wet towels. Keep the torch waaaaaay back, take
your time, and use your bare hand to control temperatures
and you will be ok. Slow is the ticket

Chuck
 
Russ said:
So, I'm trying to change my front tire today...

Front fender came off ok...
The caliper bolts TWISTED my Craftsman 6mm Hex Socket....  So much for the 25 ft/lbs of torque spec...
The axle pinch bolts were so tight I had to rattle gun three of them off after mostly rounding the inside one on the right side! (So much for the 15 ft/lb spec)

So here's my issue, the inside axle pinch bolt on the right side - It's pretty much gnarled up but I can still get a bit of a bite on it - I'll need a fresh socket because my Craftsman is pretty boogered too.  I've put PB Blaster on the bolt.  How can I get this thing out without dinging up the fork??  I cant really heat it.  Any suggestions???  I'll be putting it all back together with a torque wrench.

I might just take the dern thing to the dealer for a tire change...
Click to expand...

Since you can still use what's left of the allen's hex, I suggest using an impact driver to loosen the bolt.  The impact driver is better for this job than anything else as long as the allen socket can still grip the bolt.  When you hit the driver it imparts two forces on the bolt that will assist in loosening it.  The force of the hammer hitting the driver will relieve some of the pressure on the threads and the simultaneous twisting force will turn the bolt.  A pneumatic impact wrench is not a tool that should be used on small allen bolts as they will often damage the bolt if there isn't a lot of pressure applied to the tool before pulling the trigger.  Using an impact driver guarantees that this needed pressure is applied.  Assuming you do have a 6mm allen socket that is not in the best of shape, I suggest you grind the end until you again have a tool that is useful.  Here's a picture of an impact wrench that I bought when I got out of the Army in '64.  I'm curious about your tool description, what in the hell is a "rattle gun"?  A PB blaster is also mentioned, what is that?

I assume that you don't own an impact driver or you would have used it.  You can get one at Harbor Freight for less than $10.  If you don't happen to have a Harbor Freight store within a reasonable distance, just about any tool store will stock this very common item.  It's a very worthwhile investment that you will be glad to have whenever you encounter similar difficulties in the future.  It will also prevent similar difficulties in the future. 

One last thought:  I presume that you will be replacing the damaged bolts with new ones and don't wish to encounter this difficulty again.  Buy some anti-sieze compound and apply it to any steel fasteners that thread into aluminum.  It's cheap insurance with no damaging side effects.   

   

 

Attachments

  • Impact driver.jpg
    Impact driver.jpg
    209.3 KB · Views: 79
PB Blaster is some pretty good penetrating oil.  I have both an impact driver and an air impact wrench.

The bolt is out, but it didn't come willingly.  It was too rounded to get out the normal way, but a reverse fluted drill popped the head right off and spun it out.  So, now I've got the pinch bolts out, I went out and bought a 22mm hex socket to loosen the axle and all is well.  $6 bucks for a new pinch bolt...  OUCH!  Should the bolts go back in dry or with some anti-seize? 

Thank you all for your help and suggestions!

Russ
 
Russ said:
The bolt is out, but it didn't come willingly.  It was too rounded to get out the normal way, but a reverse fluted drill popped the head right off and spun it out.  So, now I've got the pinch bolts out, I went out and bought a 22mm hex socket to loosen the axle and all is well.  $6 bucks for a new pinch bolt...  OUCH! Should the bolts go back in dry or with some anti-seize?

Thank you all for your help and suggestions!

Russ
Click to expand...

Congratulations Russ, you have just overcome the work of your bike's previous owner who didn't know his own strength or perhaps the strength of his impact wrench.

I recommend using an anti-sieze compound anytime you're mating steel threads with aluminum threads.  Over time the two dissimilar alloys will fuse themselves together and make removal a problem.  Careful use of a torque wrench is also a good idea.  Out of curiosity, how will you change the tire?  Do you have a tire changer?
 
Something I have found helpful is using Clover valve grinding compound. It is a engine valve grinding paste that has abrasive particles in it. Dip your allen wrench, screw driver or socket in it before attemting to loosen the nut or bolt, it locks the tool in place with out sliping. Works great on rusted screws as well, it locks the philip screw driver into the screw head. Clover Compound, I had mine for years. It comes in a two sided small can one side has fine paste and flip it over and the other side has course. Try a machine shop or parts store the grinds valves. Hope this helps.
Nile.
 
Nile said:
Something I have found helpful is using Clover valve grinding compound. It is a engine valve grinding paste that has abrasive particles in it. Dip your allen wrench, screw driver or socket in it before attemting to loosen the nut or bolt, it locks the tool in place with out sliping. Works great on rusted screws as well, it locks the philip screw driver into the screw head. Clover Compound, I had mine for years. It comes in a two sided small can one side has fine paste and flip it over and the other side has course. Try a machine shop or parts store the grinds valves. Hope this helps.
Nile.
Click to expand...
I am going to try this as I have to loosen a lot of stuck screws at work.
 
I have used a Torx (star)  bit a few times. Sometimes metric other times SAE. Hammered it in place then was able to turn the bolt.
 
Bud Callaghan said:
Out of curiosity, how will you change the tire?  Do you have a tire changer?
Click to expand...

I actually run the wheel down to the local HONDA dealer and have them change it for $20 bucks - I haven't been really lucky with doing it myself. 
 
^^ Cap'n, I have 'em on order and will report my findings!

^OMOAC, +1 to impact tools. . . but these will fill a needed niche in the toolbox. Some things just don't want to be banged on too hard.

Heard about these from the American Gunsmithing Institute.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top