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Headlight connector melted

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I put in a brighter bulb than stock and the connector at the back of the bulb has melted. I was told by the dealer they dont have any, that I can only get the whole electrical harness. Does anyone know where to get one? Thanks, Bill
 
Bill: If you have a NAPA dealer, they have a bulb holder than can handle the high amperage. In my locale that would be an Advance Auto dealer. I'm sure someone will ring in with the part number that you will need. If not, just ask as I know someone will have it at hand. As for why I don't post the number, I don't know it. Yes, it has been that long since I replaced the stock headlight socket and it is still working today. :) tcars, John, COG 4157, AMA & ROK Central Jawja AAD
 
The whole electrical harness? That's pretty helpless for a stealer to offer. Advance Auto Parts and most any auto electric store can sell you one. I have heard of this happening but putting in a newer/better socket should help. David in Jax COG# 7898 NE FL AAD & COG Vendor www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zzr1200/index.html
 
Seems like NAPA was the place people have been getting them. As an alternative to the complete factory wiring harness, you could get a headlight harness from Murph which includes a new high temp socket, and then instead of just plugging in to the existing socket for activation, you could wire it in semi permenant like w/o the stock connector. Then you would not only have the higher temp socket, but upgraded wiring etc. The factory wiring only becomes relay activation. 2003 Concours, 56K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Just wondering what bulb you had put in. A 100/80 or 130/90 watt? I recommend an upgraded harness with relays for high wattage bulbs.
 
The part you want is the Bakelite Napa High Temp H4 Socket NAPA LS 6235
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http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Headlight/NAPAHeadlightConne ctor.jpg Cut the old one off and splice that on. The connectors are heavy duty, and bakelite does not melt :) If you trim the inside of the rubber boot you can slip it over the connector, just remember to install the boot BEFORE you complete the splice :) Colin Prior COG IT Director Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764 ROK#20000617
 
+1, a NAPA 80/100 with a http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_28&products_id=102 will give ya lots more fotons & give yer jbox a break. Wurks fer me. 01 Conc, Mijami Floriduh OTP 06: http://tinyurl.com/2vk9o2 route map: http:
 
The speed at which you guys helped is amazing. Many thanks, I'm on my way to pick up the part, and I'm using a 100/55W. I'll check the blog to see what others recommend. :)
 
Ifn I aint wrong, and I often am, using the murph wiring harness linked above is the way to go. You get the socket you need plus the wiring to make it work correct without burning up other parts like stock wires and Jbox. Photos[/url]
 
Ifn I aint wrong, and I often am, using the murph wiring harness linked above is the way to go
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Its a great way to go but it is $60 bucks! Many of us are frugal The Napa route has worked well for me on 4 scoots with no issues. its $12 or so. BUT you do need to be ok spacing the wires etc. I was a little concerned that the switches may not like the increased the current but so far they have been fine, even though I habitually ride with my high beam on during the daytime, which so far has kept the cagers from pulling out in front of me. Colin Prior COG IT Director Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764 ROK#20000617
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As suggested, the Bakelite high-temp socket will cure your Connie's immediate ailment. But as also suggested, an aftermarket wiring harness that pulls the headlight circuit off the j-box will give you an impressive increase in amperage to that bulb. Even at $60 or so, the harness + a 100/80 H4 NAPA bulb is IMO still a very frugal improvement to the crappy OEM lighting. Murph's is the one I ended up using, amotostuff.com also has one in the same price range IIRC.
 
Although I never ran a 130/90 on the connie, I did run a 130/90 on my Norton Commando for a few months before I realized that the insulators on the terminal ends of some wiring was showing signs of overheating. I
 
I agree the better plug is required to handle the temp of higher wattage bulbs, even with the stock bulb/stock harness plug, the connectors can get loose over time causing heat and meltage. IMHO the relayed harness is the way to go. You get direct power directly to the bulb, all the stock wiring has to do is send the signal to trigger the appropriate relay, and you get upgraded on the connector. And, as example, I installed the relay harness on a bike at a RWTW years ago with a stock bulb. Another bike had a 100/80 on stock wiring. Side by side, across a pitch dark field, the relayed harness stock bulb was twice (subjective) as better, a whiter light than the 100/80 on the stock harness. And yes we put some rpms on the bikes, the 100/80 was still weaker than the relayed set-up. It was pretty impressive. My 0.02
 
Ifn I aint wrong, and I often am, using the murph wiring harness linked above is the way to go. You get the socket you need plus the wiring to make it work correct without burning up other parts like stock wires and Jbox.
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If you do go with the Murphs harness you will still need to replace the melted socket so DON'T get the NAPA LS 6235. This headlight socket WILL NOT hold onto the wires that are inserted from the Murph harness like the type of headlight socket that you melted on your ZG. The headlight connector on my bike melted also and I was only running a 55/60W Xenon bulb! The ZG I bought was a CA model and it seems that there was a lot of salt water corrosion in the headlight socket. I replaced the melted headlight socket with a NAPA headlight socket that fits a 93 Chevy S-10 pickup. I installed the Murphs headlight harness upgrade and it works great. You should also notice a lot more light coming from a 55/60 W bulb once you upgrade to the Murph harness.
 
If you think Murphs harness is expensive, price the stock harness from the dealer and remember you get the same problem just waiting to happen...again. If you think the harness is still expensive, price the individual components, your time and tools to make one. If you think the harness is still too expensive, repost the question as "is Murphs harness worth it". That harness and a SilverStar bulb are well worth it in my book. Oh, bakelite replacement socket available from NAPA, Autozone, PepBoys, et.al. You might be able to save yourself some more trouble if you make sure the connections are very tight as well as some high temperature dielectric compound on them. Keep it off the bulb, tho. http://millerized.com/pegs I'll be in the garage
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