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Hello COG. New member, Alfred Silva from Big Bear, Ca.

alfredsilvavet4164

alfredsilvavet4164

Member
Member
I joined COG this past Wednesday, June 28, 2023, the same day I got myself a 2003 Concours. The bike has 59k miles on it, but has been taken well care of. The owner is moving out of California and did not want to take bike with him. I feel I got a good deal at $1000 for the bike.
I do have some questions coming up regarding specs for valve adjustment for these miles and carburetor synching and what rpm I should be looking for at idle.
Looking forward to meeting members.
 
Welcome Alfred!
We're glad you're here. Tell us about the previous owner and the info he gave you about the maintenance and riding history of your bike. What's been added? Does it have overflow tubes etc.? If it has truly been taken care of, he should have an idea of when the last adjustment was. Seems like valves need more attention earlier and tend to settle in so the time between adjustments can increase. Idle should be about 1100. It's been said not to go lower in order to keep oil flowing properly. You should consider joining as a full member. It will unlock the tech pages that are full of the information you will need. Lots more benefits like a book of members that will come rescue you when you really need it.
Welcome!
 
Greetings Alfred,
Taking it you didn't get a service manual with the bike? Was the previous owner a COG member? Bike been modded ? Has the bike been parked awhile?
 
alfredsilvavet4164 said:
I joined COG this past Wednesday, June 28, 2023, the same day I got myself a 2003 Concours. The bike has 59k miles on it, but has been taken well care of. The owner is moving out of California and did not want to take bike with him. I feel I got a good deal at $1000 for the bike.
I do have some questions coming up regarding specs for valve adjustment for these miles and carburetor synching and what rpm I should be looking for at idle.
Looking forward to meeting members.
Click to expand...
Welcome Alfred!

As a new to you Concours owner you have come to the right place!

From the direction of your post I gather you will be performing your own maintenance. Suggest getting yourself a field service manual (FSM) - will be your best friend, save tons of time and most importantly perform work properly. Resist shortcuts, do it right, respect the machine (e.g. no clutch-ups, no burnouts, this is not an off-road machine, etc.: you know common sense stuff) and the Connie is practically bulletproof.

As already eluded to, solid once over on all soft parts…. Brake lines, hoses, tires, all fluids, line the cables, check bearings, valve check you are already thinking, air filter, forks not leaking, - you get the point.

Look to see you around, you are a full member already 👍!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Welcome to the club and forum, Alfred.
Too bad you probably missed out on the National Rally in Canyonville Oregon last month. That would have been a terrific way to meet many other members... but hey there is always next year. Be sure to check out the club's online Event Calendar and try to meet up for some local happenings. If there is nothing on the schedule in your part of the state, reach out to your Area Director, @Motomaniac, or one of the other staff members to find out how you can organize a local activity.
 
Murph said:
Greetings Alfred,
Taking it you didn't get a service manual with the bike? Was the previous owner a COG member? Bike been modded ? Has the bike been parked awhile?
Click to expand...
Murph said:
Greetings Alfred,
Taking it you didn't get a service manual with the bike? Was the previous owner a COG member? Bike been modded ? Has the bike been parked awhile?
Click to expand...
Hello Murph. He didn't say if he was a COG member, and I didn't know to ask. The bike is stock, no mods. Other tgan the previous owner rebuilding the carb due to #3 leaking. Bike has sat for almost 2 years. So, I intend to start from step 1. Replace all fluids, brakes, valve adjustment, new plugs, new tires ect..
 
alfredsilvavet4164 said:
Hello Murph. He didn't say if he was a COG member, and I didn't know to ask. The bike is stock, no mods. Other tgan the previous owner rebuilding the carb due to #3 leaking. Bike has sat for almost 2 years. So, I intend to start from step 1. Replace all fluids, brakes, valve adjustment, new plugs, new tires ect..
Click to expand...

S Smith said:
Welcome to the club and forum, Alfred.
Too bad you probably missed out on the National Rally in Canyonville Oregon last month. That would have been a terrific way to meet many other members... but hey there is always next year. Be sure to check out the club's online Event Calendar and try to meet up for some local happenings. If there is nothing on the schedule in your part of the state, reach out to your Area Director, @Motomaniac, or one of the other staff members to find out how you can organize a local activity.
Click to expand...
S Smith, thank you for the welcome. I just got the bike this week, and I will be going through the bike with a fine comb before I ride it long distance. Thank you for the info and getting me started.
 
2andblue said:
Welcome Alfred!

As a new to you Concours owner you have come to the right place!

From the direction of your post I gather you will be performing your own maintenance. Suggest getting yourself a field service manual (FSM) - will be your best friend, save tons of time and most importantly perform work properly. Resist shortcuts, do it right, respect the machine (e.g. no clutch-ups, no burnouts, this is not an off-road machine, etc.: you know common sense stuff) and the Connie is practically bulletproof.

As already eluded to, solid once over on all soft parts…. Brake lines, hoses, tires, all fluids, line the cables, check bearings, valve check you are already thinking, air filter, forks not leaking, - you get the point.

Look to see you around, you are a full member already 👍!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Click to expand...
Wayne, Carol & Blue, thank you for the welcome. I am a cruisering-touring kind of Rider and not into exhibition speed. I drive like an old man, but kick it up when I needed. Yes, I will be doing all of the maintenance myself. I will be going through the bike completely, as you stated brakes lines, hoses, tires, all fluid cables, valve adjustment ect..
 
Before any more time or investment check for hydro lock.

You can search the forum for deeper instructions or ways that others have made homemade tools for this but more / less pull all four plugs and turn engine manually (clockwise via large nut on the crankshaft accessible under the timing cover) measure the pistons at TDC timing marks 1&4 2&3. All pistons at TDC should measure exactly the same, any difference is a problem that needs further investigation.

Again I’d probably stop and do this now before any further investment. Poor maintaining of carbs, faulty petcock or petcock left on prime twinned with carb needles not sealing will lead to hydro lock quickly and it happens at startup snap of a finger….

Have you done a compression check on this machine yet?

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
2andblue said:
Before any more time or investment check for hydro lock.

You can search the forum for deeper instructions or ways that others have made homemade tools for this but more / less pull all four plugs and turn engine manually (clockwise via large nut on the crankshaft accessible under the timing cover) measure the pistons at TDC timing marks 1&4 2&3. All pistons at TDC should measure exactly the same, any difference is a problem that needs further investigation.

Again I’d probably stop and do this now before any further investment. Poor maintaining of carbs, faulty petcock or petcock left on prime twinned with carb needles not sealing will lead to hydro lock quickly and it happens at startup snap of a finger….

Have you done a compression check on this machine yet?

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Click to expand...
Grear tip, thank you. I did see video on how to check for bent rods with homemade tool (depth gauge). I do have a compression test kit.
I am assuming that when performing the compression test, I can expect a bit lower numbers because of the 7k feet elevation of where I live in Big Bear, Ca.
 
alfredsilvavet4164 said:
Grear tip, thank you. I did see video on how to check for bent rods with homemade tool (depth gauge). I do have a compression test kit.
I am assuming that when performing the compression test, I can expect a bit lower numbers because of the 7k feet elevation of where I live in Big Bear, Ca.
Click to expand...
Here’s a conversion chart.

Each line the the altitude and reduction factor followed by the applicable Correction Formula: Actual Reading (AR) x Factor # = Approximate Compression at Sea Level (ACASL)
  1. 1000' .9711….. AR x 1.0289 = ACASL
  2. 2000' .9428….. AR x 1.0572 = ACASL
  3. 3000' .9151….. AR x 1.0849 = ACASL
  4. 4000' .8881.…. AR x 1.1119 = ACASL
  5. 5000' .8617….. AR x 1.1383 = ACASL
  6. 6000' .8359….. AR x 1.1641 = ACASL
  7. 7000' .8106….. AR x 1.1894 = ACASL
  8. 8000' .7860….. AR x 1.2140 = ACASL
Hope this helps, not exact but it’ll get you to within 95%. 7,000 feet there’s nearly 20% difference than at sea level (significant).

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
2andblue said:
Here’s a conversion chart.

Each line the the altitude and reduction factor followed by the applicable Correction Formula: Actual Reading (AR) x Factor # = Approximate Compression at Sea Level (ACASL)
  1. 1000' .9711….. AR x 1.0289 = ACASL
  2. 2000' .9428….. AR x 1.0572 = ACASL
  3. 3000' .9151….. AR x 1.0849 = ACASL
  4. 4000' .8881.…. AR x 1.1119 = ACASL
  5. 5000' .8617….. AR x 1.1383 = ACASL
  6. 6000' .8359….. AR x 1.1641 = ACASL
  7. 7000' .8106….. AR x 1.1894 = ACASL
  8. 8000' .7860….. AR x 1.2140 = ACASL
Hope this helps, not exact but it’ll get you to within 95%. 7,000 feet there’s nearly 20% difference than at sea level (significant).

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Click to expand...
Thank you, Wayne, Carol & Blue. This formula will get me in the ball park. Thank you again.
 
2andblue said:
Here’s a conversion chart.

Each line the the altitude and reduction factor followed by the applicable Correction Formula: Actual Reading (AR) x Factor # = Approximate Compression at Sea Level (ACASL)
  1. 1000' .9711….. AR x 1.0289 = ACASL
  2. 2000' .9428….. AR x 1.0572 = ACASL
  3. 3000' .9151….. AR x 1.0849 = ACASL
  4. 4000' .8881.…. AR x 1.1119 = ACASL
  5. 5000' .8617….. AR x 1.1383 = ACASL
  6. 6000' .8359….. AR x 1.1641 = ACASL
  7. 7000' .8106….. AR x 1.1894 = ACASL
  8. 8000' .7860….. AR x 1.2140 = ACASL
Hope this helps, not exact but it’ll get you to within 95%. 7,000 feet there’s nearly 20% difference than at sea level (significant).

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Click to expand...
@ONOBob I see you had a WOW expression - It is quite remarkable the effect of altitude on vehicle performance simply due to atmospheric pressure! I am certain our tuning buddies have planned and try to combat but there is only so much that can be done when there is less 'air' to work with, especially on a naturally aspirated machine as ours - well most of ours I understand there's a handful of boosted Connies out there.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Hello Alfred. You ARE going to like it here.
I also have a 2003...
The others didn't notice this, but (I did) and I know that you bought one of the finest years of the C-10s as it's RED.
(The others will explain why I sed that later)

As the others have told you,
Hydrolock is the C-10 only Weak Link.
So, get that out of the way and do the hydrolock test first.
(to be sure you don't have an issue there)

While inside the carbs see if the bowls have standpipes in them.
If they do, your way ahead and will never have to worry about hydrolock again!
Next; On the carb rebuild, pay particular attention to float level and ensure the float valve is sealing.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
connie_rider said:
Hello Alfred. You ARE going to like it here.
I also have a 2003...
The others didn't notice htis, but I know that you bought one of the finest years of the C-10s as it's RED.
(The others will explain why I sed that later)

As the others have told you,
Hydrolock is the C-10 only Weak Link.
So, get that out of the way and do the hydrolock test first.
(to be sure you don't have an issue there)

While inside the carbs see if the bowls have standpipes in them.
If they do, your way ahead and will never have to worry about hydrolock again!
Next; On the carb rebuild, pay particular attention to float level and ensure the float valve is sealing.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
Connie_rider, yes, first test I will be doing tomorrow is the hydrolock test, fingers crossed on good test results. I will also go over carburetor to check for standpipes and float levels. Yhea, I like the RED color. Will keep you posted on results. Thank you for the great tips.
 
When you can,,, come ride with us!
Find a COG event and go to it.
You won't be disappointed.
But if you ride with the COGdom ya may feel the need to I drive like an old man, but kick it up when I needed.

Ride safe, Ted
 
connie_rider said:
When you can,,, come ride with us!
Find a COG event and go to it.
You won't be disappointed.
But if you ride with the COGdom ya may feel the need to I drive like an old man, but kick it up when I needed.

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
Once I get my Connie running and fine tuned. I will go to events. Thank you for the great info.
 
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