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How to check oil level thread (no not which oil)

nomoreusmc6802

Guest
Guest
So I'm a handicap guy and it kills me to check the site glass to check my oil. Is there another way? Anyone rigged up a dipstick?

I've read in some threads to check the oil on the side stand, then I've read threads that say they check their oil on the center stand. Which one is correct? I don't have an owner's manual and the clymer manual doesn't reference it.

Gas is oil right? Seen references to people using 87 octane corn piss water in their c10? To date I've only used 93 0% ethanol.
 
The sight glass is pretty much useless. When you change the oil and filter add 3.25 qts and forget about it. If the bike burns oil or leaks it (rare) between changes be content to see oil in the glass when it's on the center stand after being shut down for a few minutes - exactly where the oil level should be in the sight glass is hard to say. If you add oil whenever the sight glass looks low it will be easy to overfill the motor.
 
I built a dipstick, and it worked ok. Was just a small wooden dowel that I cut notches in.
On the 87 octane, a C-10 prefers the 87 Octane.
Actually, seems to do better on it.
The extra $$ for premium is a waste of $$.

As you advanced your timing, that may not be the case. {??}
I'm skeptical that it does much, and may even hurt low end torque.
It would take roll-on's (with and without the advance) to prove if that works or not.

Ride safe, Ted
 
My bike doesn't burn or leak oil. I find that I get consistent results with the sight glass if I leave the bike on the side stand for 10-15 minutes after riding before putting it on the center stand. After 15 minutes or so on the center stand, I get oil 3/4 of the way up the sight glass. It stays this way right after an oil change (3 qts with filter change) until it's time for the next oil change. Been this way for the 9 years I've owned the bike.
 
I built a dipstick, and it worked ok. Was just a small wooden dowel that I cut notches in.
On the 87 octane, a C-10 prefers the 87 Octane.
Actually, seems to do better on it.
The extra $$ for premium is a waste of $$.

As you advanced your timing, that may not be the case. {??}
I'm skeptical that it does much, and may even hurt low end torque.
It would take roll-on's (with and without the advance) to prove if that works or not.

Ride safe, Ted
I haven't advanced the timing yet. Haven't had the available funds. I just don't know what the previous owner has done. Don't have the seventh gear mod but has some of murphs parts on it when I bought it. On the other hand it lacked the basic maintenance I would have expected for an owner that mods his bike. I think 2 owners ago was probably a cog member and loved this bike. Then sold it to a noob rider for a few years before I got it. I just broke 50k on it this weekend. My worries right now are transmission issues, but I haven't adjusted the shifter yet and my clutch is near the end of it's lifespan, so I haven't asked on the forum.
 
If I remember correctly my 85 honda interceptor had a dipstick, and im not refering to the guy on the seat... made it so easy to check..

I wonder if any other kawaski models have dipsticka that could be made to work. Gotta figure the filler ports probably the same size...
 
I tried my Honda 750 Nighthawk dipstick
I tried my Suzuki 1250 Bandit dipstick
Neither one worked due to clutch basket being in the way.

Dean
Oh you have a bandit 1250.you lucky..... I had 3 1200's. Absolutely loved those bikes. I really wanted to try a fuel injected 1250. But I'd owned 13 Suzukis in a row so I needed to step out and try some new stuff, enter the Connie. How do you like it? Did they fix the suspension?
 
I bought it a year ago. When I got it home I could not believe how quick it was. I have done a lot of mods to it. It looks brand new.
The 1200's are a great bike
The first thing I do when I buy a bike is clean the fuel tank out. I put a new fuel pump in the tank of the 1250 also. I would never sell the 1250
I have also done a lot to the 2000 ZG 1000 I have. It has new Carbon Fiber Delkevic exhaust on it. The guy I got it from was the 1'st owner. He had it in the house. It looks brank new. Not a scratch on it anywhere. Beautiful Bike. I love the Connie. I'am working on the suspension rt now. Got a C-14 Rear shock just need to figure out how to get it on. Already did the front with. Progressive

Dean
 
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+1 on using the 87 octane . The difference is actually noticeable . That confused me since I've always had to run 93+ in my turbo car (Saab) .
I wonder if you could use a mechanics inspection mirror to check the sight glass ?
 
+1 on using the 87 octane . The difference is actually noticeable . That confused me since I've always had to run 93+ in my turbo car (Saab) .
I wonder if you could use a mechanics inspection mirror to check the sight glass ?
Tried it. I can see the sight glass, not the oil level. Poop
 
Tried it. I can see the sight glass, not the oil level. Poop
Well , the good part is that if the bikes running good and not leaking , the oil aint going anywhere . I am one of those that needs to check oil frequently in my vehicles ( Have 4 with the bike) only my old Dodge truck ever needs a little between changes though .
 
Well , the good part is that if the bikes running good and not leaking , the oil aint going anywhere . I am one of those that needs to check oil frequently in my vehicles ( Have 4 with the bike) only my old Dodge truck ever needs a little between changes though .
I just want to treat it right and hopefully she returns the favor! Here is to hoping
 
I hardly ever check the oil level after each oil change for over 100,000 miles. When I do, I only need to see an oil line somewhere in the sight glass, don't care where.

Your oil level results in the sight glass will vary at each check. I believe its because the oil that stays in the second front sump area varies.

The only thing I don't want to see is oil all the way to the top of the sight glass as that would mean overfill, leading to breather leaking into the airbox and down the left side of the engine by the clutch slave and water pump, or if enough oil, possible frothing which can put the engine into a low or no oil pressure situation.

Just put 3 liters of oil in at oil change after draining oil from BOTH drain plugs and replacing the oil filter - good to go.
 
I am fortunate to have a riding partner. I start and move the bike from its storage location into the driveway and shut it off as we gear up. I get on and hold it near level and she looks at the sight glass. I then rock it side to side and she looks for the oil line to move in the sight glass. Then we mount up and go.
 
I hardly ever check the oil level after each oil change for over 100,000 miles. When I do, I only need to see an oil line somewhere in the sight glass, don't care where.

Your oil level results in the sight glass will vary at each check. I believe its because the oil that stays in the second front sump area varies.

The only thing I don't want to see is oil all the way to the top of the sight glass as that would mean overfill, leading to breather leaking into the airbox and down the left side of the engine by the clutch slave and water pump, or if enough oil, possible frothing which can put the engine into a low or no oil pressure situation.

Just put 3 liters of oil in at oil change after draining oil from BOTH drain plugs and replacing the oil filter - good to go.
Please explain "both drain plugs"
 
There are two drain plugs. I'm sure there's a pic someone has posted explaining where they are.
 
Personally, what I do with an oil/filter change with the sump drained by pulling both plugs, is refill the bike with ~3.2 quarts of oil - and - forget about it.

Unless you're seeing some indication of oil leaking from somewhere or leaving a blue haze in your wake as you go down the road, these bikes just don't seem to use any amount of oil worth worrying about.

Seriously.
 
My manual didn't show up until after my oil change. So now I'm worried that I'm over full
Put it on the center stand, run it until the cooling fan cycles on, shut it off and wait 10 min. Look at the sight glass and if it isn't above the top line you are OK.
 
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