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I DO have a loose screw

Tom NWGA

Tom NWGA

Member
Member
It's true. The pilot/ air-fuel screw in my third carb fell out this weekend. The others aren't much tighter. Wonder if the springs that came with the carb kits were mashed in transit getting to me and now the screws don't seat low enough. The bike ran well enough but the remaining screws are not tight. What gives? COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
They aren't supossed to be real tight. The spring is there to help keep tension on the screw. How many turns out from the fully seated position did you start off with when you rebuilt the carbs?
 
I started with the screw turned in as far as it would go until lightly seated, then out 2.25 turns. Think new springs were a bit stiff from transit. I have new springs and a replacement screw on the way. It was suggested that I use RTW sealant to cap the screws and hold them in (not enough room in screw hole to re-seat the plug that came with kits). COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Wow I have never had that issue. I have seen the o-rings get squashed. Make sure each needle has from the needle end: o-ring washer spring in that order. If you think the spring is short just stretch it a little. I don't have one to hand to tell you the free length, I suspect SISF has.
 
Hi Volcantour, I'm not trying to be a wise guy or anything but did you get the original o-rings out of the pilot holes when you did the rebuild? Sometimes we can miss digging one out and if you doubled them up it would account for the screw being too far out and not being able to plug the hole.
 
Hey thanks for the insight. Went back to check and :blush: found out that most of the pilot screws had the o-ring but were missing the washer. Since fixed that. Am wondering if my definition of "lightly-seated" may be off a tad. At first I thought it meant 'first point of resistance'. Now I've gone in and set it a bit firmer before beginning to turn out the screws. Still, at 2.25 turns, the pilot screw head is almost exposed and very loose to the touch. Been told to use RTW to seal the screws and keep them from falling out. Any other suggestions out there? COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Your description of "Still, at 2.25 turns, the pilot screw head is almost exposed and very loose to the touch", sounds like those screws are out much further than they should be. If I were in your shoes, I'd remove the screws, springs, washers, o-rings and count the number of turns it takes to lightly seat the screw. Then I'd put all the stuff back on the screws and put them back in the number of turns you counted. After that, back them out your 2.25 turns. I don't think they should wiggle or be nearly exposed. The screw depends on friction in the threads, provided by the compressed spring, to hold the set point.
 
Just keep turning the screwdriver until you bottom out the screw on the seat. Don't go crazy and strip out the screw but make sure it is tight. You shouldn't be able to see the screw coming out all that well if you are only turning it out 2.25 times.
 
Sounds to me like you're overestimating the number of turns. As Jay said, you shouldn't be able to see or wiggle the screws.
 
Turns out the screws were indeed the issue. Purchased a set of pilot screws from the dealer and they measured .010 mm narrower at the jet than the screws furnished in the carb kits. Confirmed the measure with three separate calipers. Kaw screws went all the way in and set perfectly deep in their slots. Re-checked floats, gasket seals on valve cover and float bowls, and put it all back together. Cranked right up, warmed engine and sync'd the carbs. Attached bodywork, and went for a spin. IT RUNS :) COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
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