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Improving helmet air flow?

C

copdocpvd

Guest
Guest
I pulled the trigger and bought a Shoei GT-AIR, but am disappointed in the air flow. 

I know there are plenty of people on the "don't ever mess with the eps foam in a helmet" bandwagon, but have any of you ever "tweaked" the vent holes on a helmet successfully?  If so, should you make the exhaust or the inlet holes bigger?

And yes, I understand that manufacturers say not to, and that if you carved the snot out of a helmet it could reduce safety.
 
I'm responding not because I have an answer, but because I want to bump this and hopefully see some response.

I am super heat-sensitive and, if there's any way I can figure to get more air flowing into my helmet (a Scorpion EXO-900), I'd love to hear about it.
 
Had never thought of this, but I'm not seeing much risk to creating slightly larger/different holes in the shell (so long as we don't get out of hand!).

My current helmet is a cheap HJC in polycarbonate. Stuff is really tough, BUT any holes need to be properly radiused so you don't create failure points.

You'd think they'd use NACA-style vents that have passed some kind of wind-tunnel testing to get the best air flow.

Maybe we just need to put a VW Bug snorkel on top! :))
 
For more air flow I ride with the face shield open most of the time.  Wrap around safety glasses give me some measure of eye protection but the bugs still sting on the un-furred parts of the face.  Lately I've been eyeballing the splinter screen on my Stihl hard hat and wondering if I can get a replacement screen for it and adapt that to fit the bike helmet in place of the face shield.  Then I'd have air flow and better eye and bug protection.

JathkaJoe
 
I haven't tried it, but the Nolan N44 looks like it has better airflow than the other helmets I looked at. And the price isn't that bad either.
 
I would increase the scoop that pulls air in, not increase the size of the hole.
I imagine you can play with different pieces of plastic before settling on a final modification.
 
The problem is if you are riding behind a screen tall enough to stop buffering of you head then you are stopping/slowing the air that would normally be forced into the front of the helmet.  Sometimes to the point that air is actually going backwards and hitting the back of your head more than the front.

I would find out how much air you get without the wind screen.  If it is enough then shorten your screen until fast air is hitting just at the top of your head so the vent works as they should.  If it is not enough air then modify or buy a helmet that does move enough.

At one time I considered wearing a bicycle helmet or one made more like they are with big open slots for air.  Even if it can not protect you as well it does still offer some protection.  If your head is so hot that you are making poor decisions it is just a different kind of danger.  I am shocked they don't realize this and make something that really allows air to move.
 
JimBob said:
Had never thought of this, but I'm not seeing much risk to creating slightly larger/different holes in the shell (so long as we don't get out of hand!).
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would void the DOT rating....I guess an insurance company could get stupid if they had to pay out and somehow figured out the helmet was altered....or a real fussy cop could ticket it....ya I know , it's a stretch  ::)
 
I have a Scorpion EXO 1000.  It has a vent in the chin bar, one at the eyebrow, two on the crown of the helmet, and exhaust out the back.  During the summer I can never detect any airflow - sucker is just plain hot.  When I close everything up in the cool weather, I do notice more warmth, so some air must be flowing. 

I typically ride with my shield anywhere between "vent" and full open.  Only time I ride with the shield fully closed is during high speed runs, and when it's cold.  I can't open the chin bar vent because of the racket it makes combined with the airflow from my stock windscreen. 

Personally, I am not convinced the vents on any helmet are much more than marketing hype. 
 
Summer time creates so many heat issues and many on the COG like to go with shorter windshields to add more "clean" air to the helmet. Many times I have tested the air closer to the windshield and down a couple inches and found it very quiet there. But it's also hotter there. I have also stood up and found the clean air above the windshield to also be more quieter and smoother than behind the windshield. Much cooler up there.

I wouldn't fiddle with the EPS foam around the vents too much. Not because of the safety but because of the wind noise. You might get more air but for sure you will be adding to the decibels inside with wind noise. I understand the bicycle helmet analogy and that would work until you needed the protection of a SNELL or DOT drop tested MOTORCYCLE helmet.

Even so, the part about a helmet being too loud can ALWAYS be solved with ear plugs. I never ride without them unless I am going to the store at a top speed of 45mph. You can make better decisions, hear horns, cars, trucks  BETTER with ear plugs because you are not impaired with the wind noise.

I crack the visor or open it up anytime I slow down in the heat. And if I am wearing a modular I raise the whole thing up to get a few seconds of fresh air. But the fact is when it is 90-110 degrees you are going to get hot in a helmet. You might as well be comfortable with the ear plugs. The stress level goes DOWN for me when the helmet is on because it is my quiet place... even when it is HOT.

My HJC modular lets more air under the chin than my Schuberth C3 PRO. So in some ways the HJC is cooler. But when the temperature is really high, the blast of hot air hitting my chin and going up into the helmet is WORSE than the protection of the chin curtain and neck roll on the Schuberth. The Shuberth is quiet, but so is the HJC with ear plugs in place...
 
When it's really hot, more airflow won't really help. The best thing you can do for summer riding is to get a white helmet. Part of the reason the darned things are so hot is because most of the helmets I've seen are dark colors that absorb the heat of the sun.
 
Actually I don't agree with this at all.
Your head sweats, the best way to cool your head, is airflow.
 
My comfort zone is -40F to +60F.  In warm weather I  run with the face shield open most of the time.  I've got a cut down shield on the Rifle base, actually it's not Lexan it's plastic sign board.  When it gets above 85F I usually stop every two hours, take off the helmet, turn it upside down, put small ice chunks between the liner and EPS, then fill it with cold water and let it sit while I refuel the bike an/or myself.  I carry a neck wrap that I soak in water at each stop.  When I start riding I put the neck wrap on, zip up the jacket, put the helmet on  without draining any water out and let all that cold goodness run over my head and down my neck.  Fasten the helmet and go.

With the face shield open I get good evaporative cooling until all the little ice chunks are melted and the helmet liner has dried out, usually about 90 minutes of riding, then I start looking for a place to restock the cooling system.  Sometimes I buy 10 pounds of ice and put it in my backpack.  That will last most of the day to refill my swamp cooler helmet.

Yes, I'll be in tough shape if I ever crash soon after refreshing the ice in the helmet liner.  But at leas I'll go with a cool head. :))

JathkaJoe
 
I've used this trick on almost every helmet I've owned...

pick up some 1/2" wide x 1/4" thk, soft gray foam weather strip , super cheap stuff, and attace it to the styrofoam under the inner liner front to back , maybe 3 strips...
this offers just enough channeling to allow a better flow, without making the helmet tight, or unsafe... cheap and effective.
I've also on occasions removed the cheek pieces/pads....
 
As a mountainbiker (and a guy who sweats like a horse), I've always worn a synthetic skull cap under the bicycle helmet - bicycle style has a tail that sticks out, making sweat evaporation much more effective.

I wear a similar skull cap on the MC - though no "tail". Still, it helps keep sweat out of my brow, and out of the helmet. Think I may switch to a bicycle style - get that "tail" so it has an evap route.

 
JimBob said:
As a mountainbiker (and a guy who sweats like a horse), I've always worn a synthetic skull cap under the bicycle helmet - bicycle style has a tail that sticks out, making sweat evaporation much more effective.

I wear a similar skull cap on the MC - though no "tail". Still, it helps keep sweat out of my brow, and out of the helmet. Think I may switch to a bicycle style - get that "tail" so it has an evap route.
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Was eyeballing one of these the other day and wondering if it would help.  I'd bet if you were to wet one down before riding, it would keep your melon much cooler.
 
LHartman said:
JimBob said:
As a mountainbiker (and a guy who sweats like a horse), I've always worn a synthetic skull cap under the bicycle helmet - bicycle style has a tail that sticks out, making sweat evaporation much more effective.

I wear a similar skull cap on the MC - though no "tail". Still, it helps keep sweat out of my brow, and out of the helmet. Think I may switch to a bicycle style - get that "tail" so it has an evap route.
Click to expand...

Was eyeballing one of these the other day and wondering if it would help.  I'd bet if you were to wet one down before riding, it would keep your melon much cooler.
Click to expand...

Maybe. You really need ventilation for it to dry. Mine is soaked when I take my helmet off. Even on the mountain bike with those really open helmets.
 
I kinda wonder why motorcycle helmets can't look more like hockey helmets, with vents a plenty. Same with boots - why not some more holes or weaves to allow air through? Might look kinda dorky, but at 58, my cover of GQ days are behind me anyway.
 
I bought a BRP (Ski Doo/CanAm) helmet at a swap meet under the BRP tent for $30. Has a made by GIVI tag inside. Had a couple minor scratches on the shell, but the visor(s) were perfect. It's called a ST.1 Hybrid. It's a full face but has some large air openings in the chin guard and the chin guard is actually removable (only removed it to see how it released) if desired. Internal retractable sun shield. Its actually relatively quiet, light weight, and great ventilation.
 
Undertaker said:
delling3 said:
Personally, I am not convinced the vents on any helmet are much more than marketing hype.
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After years of trying different helmets, I completely agree.
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It's like "breathable raingear"
It all feels like wearing a plastic bag to me
 
Helmet vents do allow for some air flow, though the airflow doesn't offer much relief.  Try closing the vents when you're riding in the wet and you'll notice how you'll fog up quicker/for longer periods. 

I have a Shoei RF1100 and I crack the shield open via the locking lever on the left side.  I'm tall enough that I get clean air with the windscreen mostly down.
 
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