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It's that time again....
- Thread starter Fred H.
- Start date
norm-9688 said:Is that the shop manual Fred ??? I know a guy who has some good DVDs that are very helpful
Yea, I may have to actually bust em out when it comes time to put this all back together. I'm right at 15K, so it will be interesting to see how many valves I find out of spec.
When I got down to the head, I found a present that Kawasaki left for me from the factory. This tool has been resting on the head for the last 15K miles. I wonder if someone at the factory had to pay for it when it wasn't turned back into the tool crib. Maybe I should sell it back to them.
norm9688
Crotch Rocket
Fred_Harmon_TX said:When I got down to the head, I found a present that Kawasaki left for me from the factory. This tool has been resting on the head for the last 15K miles. I wonder if someone at the factory had to pay for it when it wasn't turned back into the tool crib. Maybe I should sell it back to them.
bike must have been built on a Friday !!! :-\
FYI, the EX and IN marks on the edges of the camshaft gears are not on my 2010 bike, and the photos in the 2010 manual also show they are gone, yet the directions in the maintenance section for adjusting the valves still reference these marks.
The 2008 had these marks on the gears. I'm not sure why they took them off. It looks like now there is just a very tiny dot indention at one point on the exhaust camshaft gear that you use to line up the cam shafts when you reinstall them.
The 2008 had these marks on the gears. I'm not sure why they took them off. It looks like now there is just a very tiny dot indention at one point on the exhaust camshaft gear that you use to line up the cam shafts when you reinstall them.
I've noticed a few differences otherwise, for example the rear ABS sensor on the pre '10's was held in with 2 bolts whereas on the 10+ it's one Allen bolt...
THat sucks that they got rid of the marks, It also looks like the exhaust gear is slightly different too (No 2nd set of holes etc)
THat sucks that they got rid of the marks, It also looks like the exhaust gear is slightly different too (No 2nd set of holes etc)
Fred, I'm confused by the title of "It's that time again....", if this is your first time in this motor. You must be talking about valve adjusts in general.
No matter, great to see the inside of it in these pictures. Is the little 'dot' you are referring to on the exhaust gear just below the larger white paint splotch? Looks like it could be a dimple in the photo.
Thanks for posting the pics. Mine is due as well, but I'm waiting until after our limited riding season is over. The more info presented on the forum, the less daunting the task will be for those who haven't tackled it yet. For some reason, I thought you had to pull the fuel tank, but I see it's not necessary. Learned something new already!
No matter, great to see the inside of it in these pictures. Is the little 'dot' you are referring to on the exhaust gear just below the larger white paint splotch? Looks like it could be a dimple in the photo.
Thanks for posting the pics. Mine is due as well, but I'm waiting until after our limited riding season is over. The more info presented on the forum, the less daunting the task will be for those who haven't tackled it yet. For some reason, I thought you had to pull the fuel tank, but I see it's not necessary. Learned something new already!
This is my first time doing valves on the 2010, but not my first time doing valves on the C14, as I had a 2008 model before this.
There are two small indentations in the intake sprocket that are the alignment marks. It used to have an EX and IN mark that were easier to see and also marked the point of TDC on #1 and #4 cylinders and helped get the cams in the proper positions to take measurements.
No you don't have to remove the tank.
There are two small indentations in the intake sprocket that are the alignment marks. It used to have an EX and IN mark that were easier to see and also marked the point of TDC on #1 and #4 cylinders and helped get the cams in the proper positions to take measurements.
No you don't have to remove the tank.
So on the intake cam, from your videos there were the 2 indentations and a line on the front of the "VVT doohickey" that lined up, and on the Exhaust Cam there was EX and a line.
For 2010 there is just a dot that you line up flush with the edge of the cyl head? What about for intake? is the line still there on the "Doohickey" or are you forced to rely on the indentation on the thing? (Sorry if I'm not making more sense)
For 2010 there is just a dot that you line up flush with the edge of the cyl head? What about for intake? is the line still there on the "Doohickey" or are you forced to rely on the indentation on the thing? (Sorry if I'm not making more sense)
So are you going to update the videos?
Since there seem to be some subtle but important changes for 2010+ compared to 2008-2009, as an uninitiated valve adjuster I too would buy a 2010 DVD update that covers valve adjustment (as a supplement to the 2010 DVD update that I already bought).
I'm almost done with the valve adjust. Just need to do some tidying up of some of the wire for my farkles and reinstall the right fairing stay and plastic. I pulled all four plugs and they are burning real nice. Started the engine last night, and it runs a bit quieter/smoother than before, I think because removing and reinstalling the cam chain tensioner helped it move forward and take out a bit more of the cam chain slack. I had to change 14 out of the 16 shims for smaller sizes. Most only went down one size step, but a couple I had to go down two sizes on. Just like the 08, I found the intake valves on cylinders #4 and #1 tighter than #2 and #3. Number #4 cylinder was the tightest, which was the same as my 2008 was.
The only real changes for the 2010/11 with regards to the valve adjustment is the foam air dam piece is now a little different, and there is only one reference mark on the exhaust cam instead of two. Other than that, it's pretty much the same. I took some more photos of the cam marks and will post them later when I get a chance.
The only real changes for the 2010/11 with regards to the valve adjustment is the foam air dam piece is now a little different, and there is only one reference mark on the exhaust cam instead of two. Other than that, it's pretty much the same. I took some more photos of the cam marks and will post them later when I get a chance.
Mad River Marc said:
I'll have to go back and look at my sheet, but I believe the only ones I found tight were both #4 intake, which measured at .004in (.005 in feeler gauge NO-GO). The .004 feeler gauge felt a bit loose, so I suspect the actual clearance was somewhere between .004 and .005 and the lower spec limit is .0047 if I remember correct.
The rest were moving toward the tighter end of the spectrum, but none had yet actually hit the limit. Both intakes on #2 were good (at .006) and required no change.
defrazier
Bicycle
Fred,
IIRC, my first check on my 08 had the exact same real tight intake 1 & 4. Was able to shuffle enough to make the max new shim count at 6. Second check had 5 out of spec, needed 2 after the shuffle, but none real bad. Third was 4 out, but had to get 3. That was at 45K. Now at 65K and holding out until "real" winter to check again. This thing just keeps going, and going, and going. Just wish I could in this heat.
You must have an air conditioned garage. See you at Jacks!
Don
Houston
IIRC, my first check on my 08 had the exact same real tight intake 1 & 4. Was able to shuffle enough to make the max new shim count at 6. Second check had 5 out of spec, needed 2 after the shuffle, but none real bad. Third was 4 out, but had to get 3. That was at 45K. Now at 65K and holding out until "real" winter to check again. This thing just keeps going, and going, and going. Just wish I could in this heat.
You must have an air conditioned garage. See you at Jacks!
Don
Houston
c14addict said:
You betcha, running full boar day and night and it can just barely keep up. It was 107 here yesterday (again) and I think its going to be 106 today, with still no relief in sight. I think we are on something like day 59 now of over 100 degrees, with many of those over 105. This has been the summer from hell here, and is the worst one I've ever been through. I'm trying to use this down time to get caught up on all my maintenance.
All done and all buttoned up and put back together. I'll take it out for a test ride in the morning before it gets up to 106 degrees again.
Attached are my measurements in case you want to see how it looked. I did it all in inches, so ignore the metric portion of the spreadsheet.
Attached are my measurements in case you want to see how it looked. I did it all in inches, so ignore the metric portion of the spreadsheet.
Animal6814 said:
Ken,
If you want to use the spreadsheet you should download the one at this link, cause the one I posted above with my data I had to erase the formulas on for cylinder #4 intake, since I didn't stick with the exact called for shims on those two valves.
This link below contains the unaltered spreadsheet.
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,28741.0.html