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KIPASS fob

metlchip

metlchip

Big Wheel
Another story of KIPASS trouble,
Last day of our 2300mi tour of the southwest, just got gas, ready for the last pass over the Sierras and home, fob quit.  No lights, no notifications, just no work, no problem we thought, just change the fob battery, nah no joy....tried the notch trick, no, called Carson City Kawasaki (really clueless), called Reno Kawasaki, they called Kawasaki and actually got back to me, they said unplug the two big connectors under the left top fairing, plug them back in and it should let me start once, this worked, but they also said, it would work only once, very true after riding home non stop, tried it again no work.  they said I'd have to take it to a dealer for a reset.  I have yet to get there.
Kawasaki need to make some fail safe way to get your bike home without taking the whole thing apart in the gas station parking lot! Hey the KIPASS is great till it quits! just give me a regular key please!
 
There was a great article in the last Concourier magazine by BDF on diagnosing KiPASS problem, and how to perform a work-around for a stuck switch (the most common problem).  All paid members of COG receive the magazine when it is printed, and can access back issues once they are archived in the online COG Member's library.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of KIPASS!  :))

Maybe we should start "Been screwed by KIPASS anonymous"?  I know that I would get that first number, #0001  :rotflmao:
 
Knowing that the switch that operates when you push down on the switch/key could be the weak link in the KIPASS system, I thoroughly lubricated the whole assembly with LPS-1.  LPS-1 is the best lubricant for all keys and switches as it dries to a lubricating film that does not attract dirt.  I lubricted all the key locks (bags and seat) as well.

First thing I noticed is how much easier and more positive the "push-in" switch function worked.  I hope this wards off any future issues on my 2011 Silver ABS Connie.
 
Superdave said:
Knowing that the switch that operates when you push down on the switch/key could be the weak link in the KIPASS system, I thoroughly lubricated the whole assembly with LPS-1.  LPS-1 is the best lubricant for all keys and switches as it dries to a lubricating film that does not attract dirt.  I lubricted all the key locks (bags and seat) as well.

First thing I noticed is how much easier and more positive the "push-in" switch function worked.  I hope this wards off any future issues on my 2011 Silver ABS Connie.
Click to expand...

Interesting.  So, i assume this LPS-1 wont harm or affect any "electrical" connections underneath the "key"?  Sounds like a good idea!!
 
Except for headlights (high temp apps), I use LPS-1 in all my lamp sockets as a corrosion inhibitor.  Works great.  Also keeps the spring loaded backplates on stop and turn signal lamps free to move.
 
Finally got it in to the dealer for diagnosis, Yes it appears to be the switch, they got the fob to reflash, but still wont light off, they are thinking the switch.  Did i read somewhere, kawasaki upgraded the spring in the switch?  (rode through a real dust storm the day before it quit)  Sounds like the lube idea is a good one! 8)
 
Superdave said:
Except for headlights (high temp apps), I use LPS-1 in all my lamp sockets as a corrosion inhibitor.  Works great.  Also keeps the spring loaded backplates on stop and turn signal lamps free to move.
Click to expand...

Super info!  Thanks for the info Superdave!  :)
 
telejojo said:
I spray WD-40 in mine and have never had a problem (knock on wood)...............
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In the fob or in the ignition switch itself. If the fob, then why? If in the ignition switch, then I would suggest that you never use WD40 in locks and guns. It will gum them up and create problems!  ;)
 
I've esed it for years in locks with no problems.It was developed for use in ICBM 's wiring and switches,they needed something to keep out moisture and corrosion and not hurt the switches or wiring and that's how wd-40 was developed.
 
telejojo said:
I've esed it for years in locks with no problems.It was developed for use in ICBM 's wiring and switches,they needed something to keep out moisture and corrosion and not hurt the switches or wiring and that's how wd-40 was developed.
Click to expand...

Water Displacement formula #40, WD-40
 
telejojo said:
I've esed it for years in locks with no problems.It was developed for use in ICBM 's wiring and switches,they needed something to keep out moisture and corrosion and not hurt the switches or wiring and that's how wd-40 was developed.
Click to expand...


Yes it displaces water. But like I said, in locks and guns, it can and does  sometimes gum up the works. I know this directly from gunsmiths and locksmiths. And have had a gummed up gas cap locks from using it to get water out. Just saying!  ;) Maybe locksmith will hop on here and give you his opinion.  ::)
 
It was never intended to be a lubricant.  It was discovered that it worked good as a penetrating oil, and was re-marketed.

I prefer silicon spray lube for locks, but I'm sure someone has a reason why it shouldn't be used for that too.  ::)
 
Metlchip said:
....... Did i read somewhere, Kawasaki upgraded the spring in the switch? 
Click to expand...

thought i did too, my dealer didn't have a tsb or anything like that on it though, but Kawasaki hotline is familiar with the problem.

I trust the system so much, i normaly have my key to the right, not to the locked position. can reach the switch if needed with a sprayer straw or something.
 
JS_racer said:
Metlchip said:
....... Did i read somewhere, Kawasaki upgraded the spring in the switch? 
Click to expand...

thought i did too, my dealer didn't have a tsb or anything like that on it though, but Kawasaki hotline is familiar with the problem.

I trust the system so much, i normaly have my key to the right, not to the locked position. can reach the switch if needed with a sprayer straw or something.
Click to expand...


One of the owners verified that they are now replacing the spring with a much bigger spring. (at least on his C14) He said he had seen the two springs together and that the newer spring was drastically bigger than the original. Whether or not Kawasaki is using them on all bikes now remains to be seen.  I suspect the newer C14's probably have the bigger spring. Hopefully this will cut down on the episodes of KIPASS failures.  ::)
Personally I think they should dump the whole system. I never had a ignition probelm with a standard keyed ignition in many years of motorcycling (with many different bikes). Then I bought a C14 with KIPASS and had nothing but trouble with it! I'm not saying that standard ignitions do not fail. But I bet if you did a percentage of standard keyed bikes that actually had ignition switch failures over the last few years compared to the percentage of C14's over the last few years. People would be wondering why this system is still in use. Besides, it's not like it actually does anything anyway! What a POS!  :))
 
Cap'n Bob said:
Besides, it's not like it actually does anything anyway!
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Sure it does.  It saves us from having to take off our gloves and reach into our pockets!  :-[

It also lets us shut off the bike, step off, and walk away without worry of forgetting to take the key.  Of course, then when you ride a different bike, you're always leaving it with the keys in it, so maybe it's Kawi's way of getting rid of the competition, by theft enabling all other bikes through subliminal rider training?  ???

I still like it though, at least until it fails me.  ;D
 
I'm with bob and the other guys on this. i never use the stove top key to open the gas tank, always reach in my pocket. cases are a little different. think it blows that on a touring bike, this system can leave you stranded in hell knows where. not a huge fan of it, but it came with the bike.  ;D
 
Cap'n Bob said:
telejojo said:
I've esed it for years in locks with no problems.It was developed for use in ICBM 's wiring and switches,they needed something to keep out moisture and corrosion and not hurt the switches or wiring and that's how wd-40 was developed.
Click to expand...


Yes it displaces water. But like I said, in locks and guns, it can and does  sometimes gum up the works. I know this directly from gunsmiths and locksmiths. And have had a gummed up gas cap locks from using it to get water out. Just saying!  ;) Maybe locksmith will hop on here and give you his opinion.  ::)
Click to expand...

Yes, WD-40 bad.
 
Fob Folly is OVER!    (unless it happens again)(in the desert)(out of cell phone range)
as per other posts, Kawasaki replaced a $.12 spring with a $.13 spring and all is well!(insert a Lewis Black:"Whoopie!") here...

 
Just got my 2008 C14 in March love the bike. Got a dumb question concerning the keys. My stove knob key will unlock everything like it should but the keys in the fob will only unlock the bags. Is this normal?????????????

Thanks
Jack
 
Jack said:
Just got my 2008 C14 in March love the bike. Got a dumb question concerning the keys. My stove knob key will unlock everything like it should but the keys in the fob will only unlock the bags. Is this normal?????????????

Thanks
Jack
Click to expand...

My 08 FOB key unlocks my gas tank as well.  Technically, if im not mistaken, both keys should work on all "locks", ignition, gas, bags and seat.  Maybe jiggle it around a little bit in the gas cap??  :))

Where you located at Jack?
 
The fob keys and the stove knob key should all unlock all of the bikes locks. Ignition, gas cap, panniers, seat!
 
Thanks guys. Dont know whats up with mine the fob key is cut different and has a different number. Im located in Abingdon, Va.
 
Jack said:
Thanks guys. Dont know whats up with mine the fob key is cut different and has a different number. Im located in Abingdon, Va.
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Your bike, if purchased used, may have replacement bags. I just replaced one of my bags and it came with another set of keys. I swapped out my locking mechanism with the one off my damaged bag so I wouldn't have different keys to deal with. The new keys fit into the fob.
 
Well that solved the problem with the different keys. Called the dealer give them the vin and they said the saddle bag latches were replaced under the recall. Old keys are gone. 
 
Jack said:
Well that solved the problem with the different keys. Called the dealer give them the vin and they said the saddle bag latches were replaced under the recall. Old keys are gone.
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It may answer the question, but doesn't really solve it.  Why didn't the dealer who did the warranty work swap the locks when they replaced the latches?

Is this what happened to everyone else who had their latches replaced under recall?  Are all you guys with 08's and early 09's running around with two different keys?

You should ask that question of Kawasaki, and your dealer.  If a dealer did this, and it is wrong, they should make it right, which would mean re-keying the whole bike.
 
I don't know what all was involved with the latch replacement. But my 08 still used the same original keys after the warranty work was complete.
 
I can order blank keys for the FOB and have them cut the same as the ignition key since it opens everything. Now the bad news had a long ride planned today but the KIPASS failed this morning. Tried beating on the switch to release to spring that didnt help. Good news is it happened at home and is still under warranty. Will update later this week.
 
I split off after this post on a possible KIPASS failure into it's own thread. Please post anything pertaining to the possible failure in that thread. Of course anything having to do with the fob subject will continue here! Thanks!

Jack said:
I can order blank keys for the FOB and have them cut the same as the ignition key since it opens everything. Now the bad news had a long ride planned today but the KIPASS failed this morning. Tried beating on the switch to release to spring that didnt help. Good news is it happened at home and is still under warranty. Will update later this week.
Click to expand...
 
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