• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

leaking fork

oldsawfiler

oldsawfiler

Crotch Rocket
One of the forks has started to leak on my 90. It is still holding some air pressure. Question is, Do I just replace the seals or do I want to do the bushings too? 45000 miles on bike, put sonic springs in 20000 miles ago. Also how big a job is it? "If it hasn't killed me yet, it's runnin out of time" COG # 8062 AMA # 1084053 ROMA or Scarlet harlot acording to my wife
 
if it was me i'd go ahead and replace the bushings. they're cheap enough and will give you piece of mind that you're good to go for another 40k...imho. i like to have a set on hand for "just in case" when i'm doing the seals, sometimes they get a little beat up separating the tubes. i'm not sure if you're asking if the seals are a big job or the bushings. if you can do the seals the bushings are a piece of cake. if you're talking about the whole job, still not difficult but it can be a little time consuming. hth, tom
 
Thanks Tom, I was refering to the whole job. Can it be done without removing the fairing? "If it hasn't killed me yet, it's runnin out of time" COG # 8062 AMA # 1084053 ROMA or Scarlet harlot acording to my wife
 
yes, i've done it without removing the fairing. once you've got them off the bike it's really not that difficult. some special tools are needed for servicing the forks but you can fabricate what you need fairly easily. the main ones are a fork seal driver which you could make out of some plastic pipe or something. the other would be some sort of pump connected to a tube with a clamp to set the oil level to the specified range. i use the same set up for vacuum bleading the brakes and just hook it up to the tube that goes down in the fork. iirc the book gives a pretty good description of what all's involved. good luck, tom
 
Hello i am Erik i am new to this forum, i am living in a little country named Danmark on the other side off the world i dont know if it is better but i do know i see the sun at least 8 hours before you ;-). Now to your fork-seals i have a pdf that shows hove to do it, udskiftning af forgaffel pakd
 
Here is the link hope it works /Users/erikjensen/Desktop/Kawasaki_GTR1000_Front_Fork_Oil_Seal_Replacement 2.pdf erik 19986-GTR engine no. 208 1948-Nimbus Danish bike 1947-Erik, Danish Mann
 
Another try http://www.gtrmania.com/upload/Download/Kawasaki_GTR1000_Front_Fork_Oil_Seal_Replacement.pdf 19986-GTR engine no. 208 1948-Nimbus Danish bike 1947-Erik, Danish Mann
 
Thanks Erikj, Those look like very good instructions. What other procedures do you cover? "If it hasn't killed me yet, it's runnin out of time" COG # 8062 AMA # 1084053 ROMA or Scarlet harlot acording to my wife
 
Check out the tech pages here on the website. Fork seal and wipers should be replaced at the same time as you will have hte froks out, so why not. It's pretty easy to do. Perhaps something that should be done at a local wrench session??? aye??? AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor 133K and counting! http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)
 
going to replace seale and wipers maybe bushings, depends on condition. Don't want to wait for wrench session. GOTA RIDE GOTA RIDE "If it hasn't killed me yet, it's runnin out of time" COG # 8062 AMA # 1084053 ROMA or Scarlet harlot acording to my wife
 
hey sawfiler, the method described in the tech pages is exactly how i do mine. if you have an impact gun, you can usually get the bottom screw out without needing to hold it from the top. follow the steps in the tech pages is the best way to go...imho. just make sure the upper triple clamp is loose before you try to loosen the top cap. when i put them back together i take a nitrile glove and cut the end off to get rid of the o-ring. slip it over the end of fork tube and oil it up with some fork oil. this will protect the seal lip from the knife edge on the tube where the bushing rides. i like to use a little grease on the seals and wipers to protect them during installation. now you work the fingers from the glove through the seal and carefully work it onto the tube and passed the sharp edges. once you have the wiper, the clip and the seal on the tube you can remove the glove and finish reassembly. the pvc pipe works for driving the seals in but if you've ever used a real seal driver you'd never do it any other way again. i hear they make adjustable ones but i've never seen one. if you've got a few different bikes, something like that would be very handy to have. hth, tom
 
To avoid buying special tool 57001-1001, what size nut-head or bolt-head fits inside the top of the damper rod? 
 
We seem to have two threads going on this so I'll post this here too: McMaster-Carr has a coupling nut that I think would be the balls for this. A coupling nut is longer than a regular nut, so you would not have to use something to keep it from sliding into the socket too far. Coupling Nut With Sight Hole #93525A315
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top