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Looks like its gonna be 'Mechanics R Us'

Tom NWGA

Tom NWGA

Member
Member
Tried to schedule some maintenance things for the 1999 Connie, only to find out the Main Wrenching Dude has left for other employment. Shop won't consider taking my bike until a replacement is located. And here I sit needing front forks oil changed, regular oil changed, valves adjusted, and leak in air in suspension checked. Anyone interested in working at a great family dealership with a decent salary for the job of mechanic? Contact Kawasaki of Rome and talk to Todd (706-235-3454 x3). Quality of workmanship is a requirement. I've got the Kaw service manual, a place to do the work, and Chalkdust online. Now all I need are some better wrenching skills...and some better photos of what I'm about to get into. Is the Clymers manual generally considered better than Haynes for this model? Any other advice would be appreciated. If I'm delayed in responding, it's because I'm in the shop...or buying more parts! COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Ask for help from other cogger's in your area. You just described a tech session in our neck of the woods. If you have the space, offer to have one at your place and you'll get help doing all of the maintenance for probably the cost of food and beverage. Everything except the suspension leak is common maintenance. If the rear shock is leaking, I doubt it is repairable. Although, it could be as simple as a loose valve.
 
Thanks for the insight. My problem just became a bit more immediate. Over the past two days, the Connie has been acting up. Two days ago, I cranked her up in the morning and she died upon adding throttle. Kickstand was up, so that was not the problem. Tried again, and with persistence, got her to run well enough to take me to work. No problems the rest of the day. Next morning, same thing. This time, as I cross the drainage swale at the end of the street, she really starts acting up and losing power. I take her to the end of the street, but no improvement and so I bring her back home and park her in the garage. This morning, she idles rough and I cannot apply throttle without the engine dying. This sound like bad gas to me, so I empty the tank, add a NAPA 3006 equivalent fuel filter per the tech pages, refill the tank with new gas and add Seafoam. Same thing - rough idle, no throttle. Last valve clearance check was 15,000 miles ago. That's why I wanted to have the bike serviced in the first place. Does the problem I'm having sound like it's valves out of alignment? Or do I need to (ugh) deal with carburetors? COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
If it's been 15,000 miles since the last valve adjustment then it really should be done but the problem sounds like carbs to me. My 2004 did pretty much the same thing and then one day just plain refused to start. The low speed/idle passages are clogged up and need to be cleaned. I hope another local Cogger will step up and give you a hand with the valve adjust and carb rebuild. Pat & Sher in Ma. 04 C10 Dark Angel 87 Ninja 600rx 79 KZ1300 - Got Parts?
 
Sounds like carbs to me too. I'd try to drain the float bowls to see if you can "flush" the crap out. Drain them all, put fuel valve on "PRI" to allow them to re-fill, drain again, Repeat 3-4 times. Try to catch the fluid in a clear container so's to examine it. Given the mileage on your bike (and knowing that mine hasn't changed much between valve adjustments now that she's over 30K) I wouldn't be terribly concerned about the valves. FWIW: pulling, re-building the carbs sounds a lot more daunting than it really is. It's not something I want to do regularly but it's not something to be afraid to try eaither.
 
Flushing out the bowls seems to have worked. Will know more tomorrow! COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Ruh-roh. Spoke too soon. Problem with throttle is back. Am awaiting receipt of Clymers to see if it, and the Forum, has enough info to help see me through the carb adjustments. :( COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
As the rest I guess carbs idle passages are clogged. Does no good to fix them if what clogged them is still around like rust or bad gas in the tank. You can take a shot at clearing them with magic or pull them and clean them correct. The magic I have seen work sometimes is pulling the tank and filling the bowls with something like Techron through the hose that connects to the tank. Let that soak and then drain from bowl. Fill it again and try to spin the starter to pull some of that in. If it starts kill it. Let that soak. Drain bowls and put in 75gas/25 techron and try to start it. Kill it after about 10 seconds and let that soak. Now replace the tank add a normal amount of techron to the tank and hope you can go ride. If it still will not idle when you get home you still will have to pull the carbs and run a wire or something safe through the passages to get them cleared. Edit: You know I take all that back. It could be a few other things. How does your air filter look? Does the choke/enhancer thing make any difference on the dieing with throttle? The side stand switch could still be funky. Hitting a bump can make that switch get intermittent and the bike will act like it is dieing. Just because the stand is up don't mean the switch is happy. If the bike starts and idles fine then dies when you give it gas it could be fuel starvation, no air or the vibrations making an interlock switch go funky. I am sure there are more reasons also. Photos[/url]
 
Tom: Have the seals on your idle jets been removed? If no, then don't remove them. Once you change their setting you may never get them back to where they were set at the factory, so words of advice from someone who has done this, don't. Now this still sounds like water in the gas to me as it came on rather suddenly. Get some "Dry Gas" additive and put it in a couple of gallons of fresh gas. Then drain the bowls again and give it another try. You might have to add two cans of "Dry Gas" to absorb the water. If after this you still have the same problem, then I'd suggest checking those valves, since they have not been done for 15k. Also check the cam chain adjuster. The easiest way to do this is just to examine the cam chain for play when you are doing the valves. If it seems loose, the adjuster is the 1st thing to check. Also check your spark plugs, make sure you don't have some water down with a plug. Pull the plugs and check their color, light gray is preferred, but since the connie runs rich you rarely find that. Check the spark plug wires, check every part of the ignition. Also, check your J box. Look for any signs of something getting hot or loose connections. You want to check as much as possible before you tear into the carbs. Now if all that does not solve it, then I'd say it was time to pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning. If it is the idle jet passages that are blocked, well NAPA makes a carb cleaner that will get it out, but you have to completely dis-assemble the carbs, making sure there is NO plastic or rubber parts still in them. This is for the carb bodies only as this cleaner is rather harsh. You will need acid gloves to work with the stuff, as I said, nasty stuff. It comes in a gallon can and you actually immerse the metal bodies in the stuff for hours. Once out, you wash with soap and water several times, then blow the bodies and passages out with compressed air and wash again. Next will come assembly, which is another story. If you choose to do this, make sure you have plenty of time. Also, IF you do this type of cleaning, do not mix the parts. All the parts from carb 1 should stay on carb 1, not any other. Often that means do it one carb at a time. Alternate method, use four different buckets or trays to dip the parts. Now if you do choose this, let me know and I'll fill you in on how to set the float levels. This is a trial and error method until you get it right. On my last carb job, it just too 11 attempts to get it right. Yes, the carbs were on and off 11 times. Learned the new needles were larger and longer than the old ones. Once I put the old needles back in it was done on the 3rd try. You might also want to have new carb gaskets on hand before starting. I'm hoping you can solve this without going into the carbs, as it is time consuming to do it right. tcars John
 
On the "dry gas" you need to run the 2 gal through the bike all at one time to get the full benefit. The stuff will only hold water for so long and then it starts to break down. At least that is what I've heard. "If it hasn't killed me yet, it's runnin out of time" COG # 8062 AMA # 1084053 ROMA or Scarlet harlot acording to my wife
 
Just thought I'd mention.... It's not actually necessary to install the carbs to check the float level. I made a jig, using a couple of pieces of wood, to set the carbs in that duplicated the angle they sit at when installed on the bike. Worked fine. It did take quite a number of fill-check-empty-adjust cycles to get the levels correct. It's a bit of a PITA to do.
 
There was a thread a while back about making carb stands out of pvc. Looked prety cool. Fred Harmon I think. "If it hasn't killed me yet, it's runnin out of time" COG # 8062 AMA # 1084053 ROMA or Scarlet harlot acording to my wife
 
I put in Steve's Jet kit in my carbs recently, and when trying to set the float levels, I figured there had to be a better way to adjust the float than the process of check the level, remove the floats, bend the tab, assemble, check the level, and repeat until good. So I did a little measuring..... The first pic show the distance between the float pivot, and the contact point where the float valve sits on the tab. There was a small polished spot on the tab. (the blue dot in the picture) Distance = 5 mm The second pic shows the distance between the floats center, and the pivot. Distance = 22 mm Third pic shows the initial fuel level. This was the worst carb. No wonder my mileage sucked! Height was .192 in Once I had the float off, I measured the distance of the tab, at the valve contact point (but at the opposite side to where the blue dot is) from the bottom surface of the arms. I used the depth gauge on the callipers, and had to hold it with my finger behind the tab to feel when the calipers actually touched it. It took a few tries until I could measure it consistently. Picture 4 shows how I held it. (You can't see the tab in that shot, but it is there.) I had to drop the fuel level .192 inches, and using the ratio of the float center to the valve contact; (( .192 * 5) / 22) I needed to bend the tab .044 in. So I bend the tab, measured with the calipers, bend it bit more, measure again, bend it back a bit and measure..... Only took a minute or so the get the measurement. Reassemble the float and bowl... and...close but not good enough. Still to high, by .053" Take it apart, bend it another ((.053 * 5) / 22) = 0.012". Assemble... P E R F E C T !!!! First 2 carbs took two tries each. 3rd and 4th carbs were good on the first try. I think I was getting better at measuring. Net result, had the float levels down perfect in about an hour, including the time to figure out how to do this. If I ever do this again, I will make a stand to hold the floats and use a test indicator to measure the tab. The callipers worked, but depended on my feeling when the depth gauge touched the tab, and it was too easy to push the tab with the calliper and get the wrong reading. This was the only finicky part of the whole process.
 
Howard; Most excellent article Sir! Can you pop this into a Word Doc for me so I can post it as a PDF for the Tech Pages? Yo'll get full credit etc ;-) Thanks
 
Thanks for the compliments. Carbs have to come off again soon, as there is a coolant leak on the manifold, so I'm going to do the complete overhaul of the coolant system. While the carbs are off, I will experiment a bit with using a dial or test indicator to measure the float tab, and write it up after that. It will be few weeks though, not much time to play right now. Cheers
 
Many, many thanks! Will give it a go this weekend and let you know how well it works for novices. COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Spot On, Howard!! Number two float was out .052. Used your technique, made the calculations, did the adjust, then re-measured vertical distance between tang and the beginning of the float arms to be sure. Put on the float, added the float bowl, then ran the fluid level again. Dead on, first time. This idea of yours really merits an article in Concourier, and hopefully soon. If it helps any, I'll gladly volunteer to help proofread the article before you send it in. COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
SUCCESS!!! Carb re-build is completed, oil and filter changed, and spark plugs replaced. Runs like a top. I couldn't be more humble in my thanks for all of your help and especially that coming from Ranger Jim, Howard_Smith_ON, and Rick Riczinger (author of the excellent article on Carb r/r/r in the Fall 2006 edition of the Concourier). You guys and 'Mr. Clymers' were wonderful teachers. For those of you considering it, I thought I would post the parts list that made it all possible. The first section is for those disposable items that will need to be bought again next time. The second section is the "bonehead" list of things that broke and had to be repaired before completing the work, and the last section is the list of tools purchased to be able to do the work this first time and thereafter. It is not all inclusive, as I had a fair amount of tools already, like metric socket sets, T-allen wrenches, spark plug gapping gauge, etc. I tried to just list those items that were particular to this task. Here goes: Part Supplier Cost Total Air circuit/pilot jet seal kit Murph $16.00 Carb Boots (4) Murph $73.00 Concours Float Bowl Gaskets (4) Murph $20.00 Fuel Filter Advance Auto $4.99 Fuel Hose Kawasaki $18.73 WD-40 Kmart $4.69 Spark Plugs (6) Advance Auto $13.00 Carb Cleaner - Spray Advance Auto $3.59 Oil and Oil Filter Kawasaki $59.44 Pilot air/fuel jets (4) Kawasaki $64.00 Pilot jet springs (4) Kawasaki $14.12 TOTAL $291.56 bonehead list Cable - Throttle, Open Kawasaki $32.82 Band, Throttle and Choke cables Kawasaki $5.47 $38.29 Tools R Us Vacuum Carb Synchronizer Morgan Carbtune $98.90 Clymer Shop Manual Murph $35.00 Cable Lube Device Parts Direct $11.95 Drain Pan Advance Auto $9.64 Blow Gun Kit Home Depot $9.49 18 MM Spark Plug Socket Sears $5.12 Auxiliary Fuel Tank parts Advance Auto $20.91 Carb Screw Kit Murph $20.00 $211.01 GRAND TOTAL $540.86 Bottom line is that I expect to spend about $220.00 to do this maintenance next time, saving myself about 4 hours of shop labor at $70/hour and (hopefully) knowing that I did it right. Incidentally, notice that the one-time tool cost is about the same as the labor charge would have been. Course, the work may not get done as fast as it could in the shop, but then what's a hobby for? ;p COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Aye, you have a sharp eye! Yep, one of the original four bit the dust when the porcelain around the tip chipped off while adjusting it. The sixth one is for replacement purposes. It's good to hear from you. Hope all is well. When do we start working on the Winding Roads rally? COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Man this sounds familiar. I bought a 2003 from a guy & all was well for about a week. Then one night when I was leaving a Sonic it would only accelerate up to 3500 rpm & then bog down. If I eased up speed it would get there eventually but running extremely rough. I went to the forum, I checked for a pinched fuel line, water or crud in the tank, drained the bowls, Seafoam, tried a different set of coils, on & on. When this 1st happened my 1st thought was "Man, somethings wrong with these carbs". I was trying to avoid pulling the carbs because I know it's a pain to get them back on but eventually I pulled them. Sure enough there was a substance in the bowls that looked like wax, when it dried it looked like big sugar crystals. I have been told it is ethanol separating from the gas. I pulled the jets (the screw in) & let them soak in card cleaner, then took a needle & went thru every orifice until I could see light thru them. Re-assembled all & after getting it all back together went for a test run, SUCCESS!! Ran great. I believe the low speed jets were clogged. The bike had belonged to a sailor & it had set way to long so the gas was old, still not why it ran ok for a week then clogged up. I ride it almost every day so the gas doesn't have a chance to get stale. Search the forum, I found a video once on the forum that showed how to service the carbs, of course it didn't show how to remove & re-install them but that isn't that difficult, you just have to have patience (small hands helps lol). Have fun
 
And the choir said, "Amen!" to small hands being helpful! COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Epilogue: It runs ;) Thank you for the help. Could not have done it without your help (and a few dollars for parts and equipment!) COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
Tom: Great to see you got the carbs rebuilt and it runs well. Now I hope you don't have to do this again for at least another 50k, or more, miles. Yes, it can be a great time consumer, but you do now know that once you get it right, you will have no further fears on what it takes to "get-r-dun". tcars John
 
Fumbles, Foibles and Foul-ups during the above: 1. Initially ordered Clymers manual from the west coast (can we say 'slow boat'?) 2. Did not fully drain tank before onset of work :blush: 3. Ordered both minor and major hex screw sets from Murphs (now have LOTS of 'em) 4. Ordered carb kits as well as float bowl gaskets and o-rings/washers (long story here but short and sweet version is that pilot jets in carb kit were wrong size and would not seat in the carbs) 5. First set valves using inch instead of MM (thanks, Jim for helping me catch that one before I fired her up!) 6. Changed airbox boots and wondered why carbs did not fit in correctly - before I realized there were two separate part numbers for the boots and had to re-set the boots in their correct slots 7. when replacing the open throttle cable, did not take a picture of the handlebar setup once the cover was off before removing the cable. Putting it back together was not fun. 8. Will order pilot jets and float valves directly from Ma Kaw next time. Hope this helps! COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
She does sing pretty! Next is the tires. Drew a nail in the rear but both front and rear were more than past their prime. :blush: So, I researched tires (and tire changing - thanks for all the help folks :) ), and called the dealer to see what they would charge to install. Yikes! $90 per. Did some more research, and it appeared that the tire changing equipment could be had for around $180. "Appeared" is the operative word. By the time one added in the needed accessories like a 12 mm hex socket and a 3/8"F to 1/2"M socket adapter, and the compressor accessories to enable the Mityvac to do its thing on the fork oil, I've added another $65 to the tally, not to mention two weeks worth of waiting and miles to the cage while shopping... Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought a 12 mm male-end hex socket would be so hard to find. They flat don't sell them in the stores around here. So, when they arrive a couple of days hence, I'm gonna find a way to put a silent alarm on the bugger... COG #8892 CDA #0309 Remember: Only Hugh can stop Florist Friars!
 
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