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Mean streak rear wheel

M

Motorcyclerider

Member
Member
I put the rear mean streak on. I used the mean streak caliper and brake caliper bracket. I measured the width I would need for the mean streak bracket with the c10 wheel setup how it normally comes. I measured the amount that would need to come off the bracket and instead of bringing it to a lathe because frankly I’d never do it. I work too much. I used a square to mark how much needed to come off and eyeballed it to get it as flat as I could I had to trim a little extra off the section the of the bracket that the caliper presses against to get it to line up with the rotor just right. Again I just eyeballed it and everything worked great. Tightened the spring on the progressive shock as much as possible and raised the fork tubes a half inch in the triple clamps. Much better stability and handling I still wish it was faster. I’m going to send a set of gpz900 cams to Canadian chrome to have the power cams specs ground into them. Not sure what to do with the 17” GPz front wheel. Remove the black paint and polish it to match or just paint the front and rear black.
View attachment 36484View attachment 36485
 
Others have done the same change to the rear brake bracket. Seems like an EZ fix.

Tightened the spring on the progressive shock as much as possible and raised the fork tubes a half inch in the triple clamps.

Sounds like you're trying to raise the rear of the bike and lower the front to keep the geometry?

Ride safe, Ted
 
When I got my M/S awhile back, I only had to take it to a machine shop and gave them the specs from the tech page here. Used C-10 caliper etc. Used the front rotor off a Vulcan Nomad and was good to go.
 
cragantler said:
When I got my M/S awhile back, I only had to take it to a machine shop and gave them the specs from the tech page here. Used C-10 caliper etc. Used the front rotor off a Vulcan Nomad and was good to go.
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I didn’t want to have to deal with an a machine shop, buy another rotor and wanted the new style caliper. I need to find a machine shop to build my zx9 triple clamp to accept the zg stem and machine the zx7 top clamp. I kinda feel like machine shops don’t want to deal with this stuff.
 
connie_rider said:
Others have done the same change to the rear brake bracket. Seems like an EZ fix.

Tightened the spring on the progressive shock as much as possible and raised the fork tubes a half inch in the triple clamps.

Sounds like you're trying to raise the rear of the bike and lower the front to keep the geometry?

Ride safe, Ted
Click to expand...
Yes it made it less complicated. Honestly I wanted to be able to get it on the center stand and maybe make it turn sharper. Not that much thought went into it. Now I’ve got the gpz front wheel on and it’s like a new bike. Can’t wait to get the zx9 forks and brakes on there.
 
Motorcyclerider said:
I didn’t want to have to deal with an a machine shop, buy another rotor and wanted the new style caliper. I need to find a machine shop to build my zx9 triple clamp to accept the zg stem and machine the zx7 top clamp. I kinda feel like machine shops don’t want to deal with this stuff.
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The couple of shops we have around here are busy with industrial business and really don't want to do custom bike work. The one we used priced it that way and did a shit job on top of that.
 
Bud said:
The couple of shops we have around here are busy with industrial business and really don't want to do custom bike work. The one we used priced it that way and did a shit job on top of that.
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Yea I hear that. I’m sure I’ll run into the same issue. I managed to get the meanstreak caliper bracket to work using a grinder and eyeballing it but I’m considering trying to find someone with a lathe to make it perfectly flat. Bike is great with the 17” front and rear though. I like the added acceleration and it doesn’t bother me on the highway. I went with a 160/60 I think. I’m almost considering dropping on a zl bevel drive for even more acell and to help keep it in the revs where the ninja cams like itIMG_0005.jpeg
 
Motorcyclerider said:
. I need to find a machine shop to build my zx9 triple clamp to accept the zg stem and machine the zx7 top clamp.
Click to expand...




You've pm'd several times and yet I don't see anything. I can also do your brake work. You have to supply me with real numbers or decent drawings so I'm not guessing on what you want. If you want me to figure it out for you, then send me everything so I can reverse engineer what's need. Also I'm a lot cheaper than a machine shop.
Motorcyclerider said:
I’m considering trying to find someone with a lathe to make it perfectly flat.
Click to expand...
 
local machine shop did the rotor mount milling as per print with no issues. they even deepened the threads on the rotor mount holes by the 0.3" (if my memory serves me) they milled off the rotor mount area. and if I recall the rear rotor was a light weight stainless EBC rotor.

also for rear rubber try a 160/70 as that is just slightly taller than the stock setup and has heavier weight rating. I'm running a Dunlop RoadSmart III in the rear, RSIV in the front. liking it.
-tdbru
 
Motorcyclerider said:
Yea I hear that. I’m sure I’ll run into the same issue. I managed to get the meanstreak caliper bracket to work using a grinder and eyeballing it but I’m considering trying to find someone with a lathe to make it perfectly flat. Bike is great with the 17” front and rear though. I like the added acceleration and it doesn’t bother me on the highway. I went with a 160/60 I think. I’m almost considering dropping on a zl bevel drive for even more acell and to help keep it in the revs where the ninja cams like itView attachment 36518
Click to expand...

What model front wheel did you use?
 
Will second the idea of 17" wheels front and rear. After fork spring modding and a more modern rear shock this bike can hold a line! Plus cool tires now available. After 6 of these bikes and 20 years of tinkering it is indeed a game changer. The way they Shoodaben.
 
I just received a quote on Battle Cruiser fr and rear tires in Burnaby BC . Canadian dollars 906.56. Holly sh$#!!
I did want to ride this fall and if I do changes in wheels I doubt I'll be riding my C10 soon. Everything takes time.
 
Picked up a 17” front and am waiting until I wear out my Dunlop Roadsmart III before I change out the rims. Gives me an excuse to ride more😂😂
 
17 inch sounds like a good choice. I just posted looking for B & F rim info. I'd like to know what rims fit the C10 so I can start my search before I buy new tires. My tires should last till snow falls.
 
wdalzell8687 said:
17 inch sounds like a good choice. I just posted looking for B & F rim info. I'd like to know what rims fit the C10 so I can start my search before I buy new tires. My tires should last till snow falls.
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Go to the tech pages and filter it for C-10 and front and rear wheel conversions.
If you haven’t been to the pages yet, there is a ton of helpful info👍👍
 
wdalzell8687 said:
17 inch sounds like a good choice. I just posted looking for B & F rim info. I'd like to know what rims fit the C10 so I can start my search before I buy new tires. My tires should last till snow falls.
Click to expand...
I think some zx6. I picked up a gpz1100 95-96 with the spacer for the right hand side and a zx6d speedo drive. Had to grind a little off the spacer but it worked perfectly. Rotors fit no problem. Handles better and brakes better.
 
Motorcyclerider said:
I didn’t want to have to deal with an a machine shop, buy another rotor and wanted the new style caliper. I need to find a machine shop to build my zx9 triple clamp to accept the zg stem and machine the zx7 top clamp. I kinda feel like machine shops don’t want to deal with this stuff.
Click to expand...
Shops around here have their hands full will industrial business and they don't want custom bike work........and that's how they price it 😞.
 
So I also have purchased a Mean Streak rim, got the machining done, actually not that much invested. I then purchased, mounted and balanced a 170/60-17 Dunlop RS III. It was raining today, so I thought it would be good day to install the new 17" rim on the bike. Low and behold, the 170(6.7"), will not fit between the gear box(left side), and the swing arm on the right side. The distance between the two is only 6.375". Way too much to squeeze the tire through. Hopefully I am missing something?
 
Put center stand on 2 x 6's and raise the bike.
Let the air out... Or even pull a slight vacuum with a hand vacuum pump.
Then put the wheel/tire in at an angle from the left side.
(Kinda hook it in around the gear box)

I have a 180/60-16 on mine.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Ted, thanks for the response. I took the differential off, slipped the tire in place, and reinstalled the differential. Not a big deal, but different.
 
I’m running Roadsmart III’s on mine and love them. Really have a great feel. Using the same size and don’t recall having any issue during installation but I’ve slept since then😂😂
 
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I have an unmachined wheel on the shelf.

The 17" wheel conversion is a game changer IMO. I also had the centerstand shortened to match the conversion "squat" which allowed a 170 to fit the rear. The 120 front and 170 rear transformed the bike into a solid canyon carver and made tire selection simpler. Suspension mods kept the metal bits from wearing off too much.
 
Bear, I think some found out how to use the Mean Streak wheel without machining it.
(I think) They only had to modify the caliper bracket slightly to do so.
Maybe Motorcyclerider posted that info (??)

Ride safe, Ted
 
Yeah, I went ahead and threw the 17" front on already. That change in and of itself was very noticeable. Besides braking and turn-in, I also noticed that all the decel headshake, my bike was experiencing, had completely disappeared, from when my bike wore the stock 18" wheel. And I had tried several different brands of tires, and more tire pressure experimenting, than I care to remember.
 
The head shake was indicative of loose steering stem bearings. Would be very noticeable around 40-50 mph on off throttle deceleration. Usually just snugging it tight would take care of it...
 
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I would have thought that too. I revisited those bearings four times. The last time, cranked that nut far more than I was comfortable with. Who knows, probably damaged. I have new bearings on the way, just to completely rule it out.

I've been fighting some vicious rear tire wear problems, as in, not lasting more than two thousand miles. I know I ride through cross-winds, but seriously??
 
beardothebeardo3680 said:
I would have thought that too. I revisited those bearings four times. The last time, cranked that nut far more than I was comfortable with. Who knows, probably damaged. I have new bearings on the way, just to completely rule it out.

I've been fighting some vicious rear tire wear problems, as in, not lasting more than two thousand miles. I know I ride through cross-winds, but seriously??
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What tire is only getting 2,000 miles? Riding style is a factor, but 2k miles is horrible.
 
1696511723-mean-streak-17-inch-wheel-and-brake-upgrade.jpg
 
by doing some research on the forum, there is everything you want
forum.concours.org

Yet another 17" rear wheel swap

I recently picked up a 1988 red Concours with low miles from a COG member in Colorado. I actually looked at these bikes and test rode a couple when they were new back in 1986 and 1987. At that time, I had a cool 1979 Kawasaki KZ650SR that I bought new. I went on several long trips on that 650...
forum.concours.org forum.concours.org
 
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The seller I got the bike from had a brand new Dunlop D404 (If I remember, that was taken off at a bit over 1,400 miles) and after that, two different Shinko's. A 230 (taken off around the 1,900 mile mark) and now a 777HD. Only 200 miles on that one, so far.

Do I expect the cat's meow from the Shinko's? Of course not. Never have, never will. My outlook is, just stop-gap tires, until I figured this bike out. But with the way things were going, spending bucks on the good ones, just doesn't make sense, until I get this corrected.

I commute about 40 miles one-way to work. About 30 of which is Interstate toll roads (Well kept and not butchered) so, this bike does have me scratching my head a bit.
 
Cruising at 90 has to generate more heat than 70. An old timer once said to me that if I ran hard (90 is hard), not to expect a lot of miles from tires. Connie is a bit porky on top of that. As for the 404's, you couldn't give me one. But hey, there's always the "dark side". 🤐😇
 
I get it. First go round with a Concours, but not to touring/sport touring bikes. Honestly, just another thousand miles would help. I've had heavier bikes than this, and gotten much better mileage. Something is just wrong.

Speaking of something being wrong. Besides getting parts these days (received the top stem bearing set...minus the bearing?!) I did get the bottom bearing set in, and was so frustrated after the ride home yesterday, that I immediately tore the frontend of the bike off. Low and behold, the bottom race was scored vertically. Enough to feel it with a fingernail. It will have been worth it to have to tear the bike apart again, if I ever get the top bearing in. Good times...
 
I have only done the bottom bearing set, so far, as I am still waiting for the top set. But, yes to the bottom. Sticking the bottom tree in the freezer, then a quick hit with heat, makes short work of the bearing.
 
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Annnnd, FINALLY got the top bearing set. What a bastard that one was. Every once in awhile you run into the stubborn ones. I broke out the Dremel and cut it out. Confirmed. Lot's of things were wrong with this bike (still are) but nice and solid now.
 
To take out the recalcitrant rings, make one or two welds on the scope and cool immediately, it will retreate the metal and the ring is easily removed.
Another method, weld a large washer on the ring span and push in the opposite direction. ;)
 
worncog said:
I am packing up to go to Barber today, but I'll get back with you when I return later this weekend.
Click to expand...
Okay. Back and done putting out fires that needed attention. The Mean Streak wheel is headed to the for sale pile. You have first dibs if you are still interested. $200 shipped to lower 48.
 

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