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MOTOOL Digital Suspension Tuner 👍

2andblue

COG Executive Director
Member
About a year ago I decided to up the game in suspension tuning and purchased a MOTOOL SLACKER V4 Digital Suspension Tuner.

The MOTOOL suspension tuner is simple to use, requires no other special tools or knowledge, makes setting suspension fast and significantly more accurate than a tape measure and another benefit - requires no helpers. MOTOOL has a remote readout device available that can be placed on the handlebars or anywhere, I saved the $ and just Bluetooth the MOTOOL to my IPhone for live readouts and documenting of the suspension settings. Kit comes with all mounts needed (removable or permanent) for our machines and many others. Can also be used on bicycles, dirt bikes...

This device allowed us to get much more out of the machine. We still use a stock fork setup and the MOTOOL helped bring the Forks up in performance to allow us to enjoy the benefits of the double adjust Penske rear shock more.

Highly recommend to anyone who wants to get more accurate suspension settings and better performance on the street, really does start with this tool... Anyone local in PA - PM me if you want your suspension tuned up...!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Does the MOTOOL also help you with the damping adjustments??
For the most part no not directly. It is strictly SAG for Free, Static and Rider which is I would say 80% then the fine tuning to preference and behavior (Rebound and Compression) is finesse.

Note: I do not have the factory rear adjuster since I went to the Penske Double Adjust and the valving within is street aggressive.

SAG MM though front & rear:
Front 35
Rear 27

I adjust the SAG to same when alone or when we’re carrying extra weight.

Fork Rebound is 8 Clicks in from fully turned out.

Rebound Rear Penske Aggressive Road Valving: 12 Clicks in from fully turned out.

Compression Rear Penske Aggressive Road Valving: 7 Clicks in from fully turned out.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
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Does the MOTOOL also help you with the damping adjustments??
Forgot to add in previous response - the tool is used mostly for SAG but is also a very accurate tool for measuring stiction which will indicate the health of the shock, forks and alignment of forks. Again very valuable information you will not get with a tape measure for setting sag over a few beers with a friend or two.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Just ordered one, didnt get the remote thingy.
I did the same - Remote readout IMO is just redundant hardware when user can install the application on phone and Bluetooth.

When you get it, their shipping was fast for me BTW, share with the group how you like the tool.

As described I was surprised how far off my suspension was and the considerable difference it made in ride quality and reduced inputs / effort needed to rip the twistiest roads.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Sandbagzrz, are you talking about a C-10 or a C-14?
The MOTOOl will work on either. But want to share something I learned.

If a C-10, I suspect that the MOTOOL will show you can't set the sag as much as needed.
The C-10 has notoriously soft springs in the front.
They would need replacing or cutting down to increase stiffness.

Ride safe, Ted
 
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I've been thinking that my front in dives when I break moderately. would this help me set it for my size?
Absolutely, my wife and I had ‘set’ the suspension a couple times - other people with a tape measure is… difficult (guess we don’t do tape measures these days). And then using a video camera with a slide ruler was ok and even the dealership not very devoted either. So I’m glad we have this tool that allows us to dial our ride exactly how we like it.

Our forks were quite far off and the difference is noticeable. You should not feel bad wanting to get your suspension set right but always I felt we were being the stick in the mud - measure again, adjust - measure again, and then the “are you sure about that number”… you know the story.

If you haven’t yet, and want to ability to fine tune whenever you feel like it and have the confidence it’s done right, suggest you give it a whirl.

Wayne. Carol & Blue
 
this tool that allows us to dial our ride exactly how we like it.
Maybe you could explain in more detail exactly what changes you feel by adjusting the front and rear ride heights. I've always been skeptical of the importance of these numbers but maybe I'm missing something. I'm not trying to be negative, just seems like a good topic to explore further.
 
Maybe you could explain in more detail exactly what changes you feel by adjusting the front and rear ride heights. I've always been skeptical of the importance of these numbers but maybe I'm missing something. I'm not trying to be negative, just seems like a good topic to explore further.
I too have been skeptical, although did try to get everything set right the old school way and even visited the dealership… they were useless - enough said there.

After one time using the system I am finally seeing the best benefit of the suspension designs. We received an immediate softening of the ride after we used the MOTOOL to get all SAGS set properly to Penske’s suggested combination of rear Shock and Stock Fork dimensions. I think the shocking we were feeling on sudden bumps were primarily from the front end nearly or possibly bottoming out. We had so much SAG on the front that there was little suspension left. Now proper SAG setting of the front and we are in a whole new world. Also some lightning of the rear as well…

Additionally the turn in and responsiveness is much more compliant with less input needed.

Quite disappointed in the results of our previous attempts and the dealership, looking back now we’ve had many preventable aches and pains…

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
So you've got the front jacked up to maximum ride height (or close to it) for max fork travel. And the rear is mid-range? This is the same as what I've been using with good success.
 
So you've got the front jacked up to maximum ride height (or close to it) for max fork travel. And the rear is mid-range? This is the same as what I've been using with good success.
Front is still deeper in the SAG than the rear by about 7MM. I ADDED (reduced SAG by 1MM) today to the forks.
 
I'm very interested in this information.

I'm unsure if the Travel is the same on both ends?
If it's not the same, 30% of total travel comes to mind.

Using the numbers from your previous post. It seems that your reverse of what Laker posted?
ie; I think he said he has more sag in the back?

SAG MM though front & rear:
Front 35
Rear 27
 
OEM is 38 and 34.
I think that is where I am now.Its ok but I mine seems a little harsh in sharp bumps. I know I dont lime it when its to soft. Then it gets u settled when I hit a bump in a curve
 
I'm very interested in this information.

I'm unsure if the Travel is the same on both ends?
If it's not the same, 30% of total travel comes to mind.

Using the numbers from your previous post. It seems that your reverse of what Laker posted?
ie; I think he said he has more sag in the back?

SAG MM though front & rear:
Front 35
Rear 27
Front a little too stiff now current SAG
Front 34
Rear 27

Rear could probably use a little tweaking as well but definitely front I’m getting more feedback and losing some of the gains in comfort. Still compliant but not as agile so I think I’ll go back a bit.

First I’ll start with backing .50 turn on out on the spring and then add a little rebound dampening and see where that brings us.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
My forks have the AK20 guts, run 7wt fluid and adjusted to minimum Sag (or maximum ride height). Compression adjusted to 3 clicks from max and I still see fork travel close to bottoming on Every ride. Not just hi speed endevers. This is simply FYI, it works for me.
Front a little too stiff now current SAG
Are you saying that Sag makes the suspension stiffer? Or softer?
 
Too much SAG and bottom out, too little SAG and pogo off large bumps and lots of feedback.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
I have been messing around with mine.I discovered that adding my camping bag (20 #) to the rear pillion requires another click to maintain 34 mm sag in the rear.

The front was a little harder to get a consistent number. Varied by 3 or 4 mm. Due to stiction I am guessing. Have not had. Chance to try it out much yet.

The best part about this tool so far is it got me experimenting with the settings. When I had the components rebuilt I just installed them as they were but when I added new seals I needed to tune again.
 
Sandbagzrz, are you talking about a C-10 or a C-14?
The MOTOOl will work on either. But want to share something I learned.

If a C-10, I suspect that the MOTOOL will show you can't set the sag as much as needed.
The C-10 has notoriously soft springs in the front.
They would need replacing or cutting down to increase stiffness.

Ride safe, Ted
The 14 isnt sprung to well either. I am 170 and it needed preload cranked up to much
 
Question for those of you who are using this tool.

Where are you mounting / attaching points - both front and rear?

What wheel stand / chock are you using to keep the bike upright while measuring?

Interested in your process and equipment used. Photo’s would be great if available.

Thank you.
 
Briefly front and rear the magnetic base of the primary part of the tool attached to the axle. Do not underestimate the power of the magnet…

For the rear measurement attachment the rear I use a permanent (removable if desired) hook that is provided with the kit. It’s on the bottom side of the tail straight up from the axle.

For the front measurement attachment there is a velcro enabled aluminum hook that goes around the fork tube up by the fairing.

To unload the tires I simply use the center stand and push down on rear to offload the front and rear is well.. offloaded.

I have not had the tool magnet lose position when taking off center stand.

I do not use any stand when on two wheels. Static and rider is both with me on the bike, standing up completely with no weight on the seat or bars for static and fully in position with a slightest about of toe pressure to balance when fully on the seat.

Device reads well and quickly so you don’t have to balance bike for a period of time to get a reading, all is real time.

Of course for two up rider sag have your rider or equivalent weight on the back. Normal loading of bag weight etc also.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Briefly front and rear the magnetic base of the primary part of the tool attached to the axle. Do not underestimate the power of the magnet…

For the rear measurement attachment the rear I use a permanent (removable if desired) hook that is provided with the kit. It’s on the bottom side of the tail straight up from the axle.

For the front measurement attachment there is a velcro enabled aluminum hook that goes around the fork tube up by the fairing.

To unload the tires I simply use the center stand and push down on rear to offload the front and rear is well.. offloaded.

I have not had the tool magnet lose position when taking off center stand.

I do not use any stand when on two wheels. Static and rider is both with me on the bike, standing up completely with no weight on the seat or bars for static and fully in position with a slightest about of toe pressure to balance when fully on the seat.

Device reads well and quickly so you don’t have to balance bike for a period of time to get a reading, all is real time.

Of course for two up rider sag have your rider or equivalent weight on the back. Normal loading of bag weight etc also.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Wayne, thank you for detailing your process, greatly appreciated
 
I have the MOTOOL V3, it's got the digital readout that can be attached to your handlebar and connects to the main unit so you can read what the SAG numbers are while your sitting on the bike. Great tool! Not only did I get the front and rear SAG numbers on my 2010 dialed in just right, I've been able to help out a few friends with their suspension settings.
 
For the most part no not directly. It is strictly SAG for Free, Static and Rider which is I would say 80% then the fine tuning to preference and behavior (Rebound and Compression) is finesse.

Note: I do not have the factory rear adjuster since I went to the Penske Double Adjust and the valving within is street aggressive.

SAG MM though front & rear:
Front 35
Rear 27

I adjust the SAG to same when alone or when we’re carrying extra weight.

Fork Rebound is 8 Clicks in from fully turned out.

Rebound Rear Penske Aggressive Road Valving: 12 Clicks in from fully turned out.

Compression Rear Penske Aggressive Road Valving: 7 Clicks in from fully turned out.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
How did you come up with your sag numbers? Trial and error, suggestions from someone else? I just picked out the ones from an article. I dont think I can ride well enough to tell.
 
How did you come up with your sag numbers? Trial and error, suggestions from someone else? I just picked out the ones from an article. I dont think I can ride well enough to tell.
Good Question - We use the Penske 8975 Double Adjust REAR shock.
  1. This shock comes with 40 clicks of adjustment to both the rebound and compression, I set these to their original middle-points
  2. Set with the Motool the Rear Shock and Front stock to the high side of the suggested Static and Rider sags
  3. Tweaked the rebound and compression to get more desired feedback
I did go to the higher end of SAG as travel of shock is needed here due to the horrible road conditions. PA has no idea how to maintain roads, they're terrible, and the larger bumps result in bottoming out if we go too deep into the recommended SAG range. If we are getting to a nicer area and roads are smoother consistently I'll take out some compression and depending on speed rebound.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
If I recall, most of your riding is with Carol on the back?
So 27mm is with you on the bike, so guessing 35 mm with both on the bike?
Do you know what the OEM Travel is on the bike?

Ride safe, Ted
 
Wayne, what is the static sag range motool suggests? Thanks.
I have not seen that. On the net I see 30 to 45mm. I can't tell you the exact number but before I knew about sag my bike would wallow bad when I hit bumps in fast sweepers. It no longer does that and the ride is compliant enough on most roads.
I found Freds write up pretty useful. It got me to at least mess with the adjustments which I think is important to understanding any of this. Maybe not the science but seat of the pants learning.
 

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I have not seen that. On the net I see 30 to 45mm. I can't tell you the exact number but before I knew about sag my bike would wallow bad when I hit bumps in fast sweepers. It no longer does that and the ride is compliant enough on most roads.
I found Freds write up pretty useful. It got me to at least mess with the adjustments which I think is important to understanding any of this. Maybe not the science but seat of the pants learning.
30 to 45mm would be rider sag, not static sag. Rider sag is selected on %age of total travel. So 30% of 5” travel is 1.5” or apx 38mm.
 
If I recall, most of your riding is with Carol on the back?
So 27mm is with you on the bike, so guessing 35 mm with both on the bike?
Do you know what the OEM Travel is on the bike?

Ride safe, Ted
No 27 MM is with Carol. Regrettably our roads are terrible and 70% of the time we need some extra travel otherwise we hit the bumper on large bumps.

Other 30% of time when on over roads we let the SAG down some.

Today I’m dropping a couple clicks of rebound to slow the speed down a little since the road is not terrible.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
I have not seen that. On the net I see 30 to 45mm. I can't tell you the exact number but before I knew about sag my bike would wallow bad when I hit bumps in fast sweepers. It no longer does that and the ride is compliant enough on most roads.
I found Freds write up pretty useful. It got me to at least mess with the adjustments which I think is important to understanding any of this. Maybe not the science but seat of the pants learning.
Wayne, can you repost that discount page for others too ? And what sorcery is this that you’re able to conjure up this page when all mortals are unable?
 
Wayne, can you repost that discount page for others too ? And what sorcery is this that you’re able to conjure up this page when all mortals are unable?
Lol. I googled motool special offer and went to there web site.Here is a screenshot of the one I think you ordered and the one I ordered ($99). I didnt order the remote monitor. The app works so well you dont need it, just use your phone.

 

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Labor Day Sale - get it while it's hot - $99 + Free Shipping! All you can't beat this deal for a very useful tool, wish I got mine for this price but not disappointed as I have loved the tool!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Black Friday Sale - I believe the price reduction is already active.

Just used my Motool slacker for resetting my suspension from 2-up to single. In doing so I noticed I have some stiction on the forks, (2 - 4 MM) fork rebuild is overdue. Rebuilding everyone else's forks but not mine recently... :ROFLMAO: Time to break in the new garage...!

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
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2andblue Thanks for posting this!!

I just bought a Hagon shock for the zg1000, and also have an Ohlins shock on the way for my z900rs cafe....
I'll probably be fitting them both at the end of the month, and this sure looks like it makes checking/setting sag pretty straightforward and easy!!
 
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