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New TPMS has replaceable battery...

ddtmoto

Guest
Guest
I replaced a Tire pressure sensor in the front today. The part number has been superceded  and I was hoping Kawi had made improvements. It looks like the units now have replaceable batteries. Good..
 
The part number shown for a 2012 model is a 21176-0125, which I have a pair of in my '08 (warranty replacements); they do not have replaceable batteries. Further, the parts fiche does not show the sensor as being serviceable nor are there any parts (such as batteries) available for it. Is this the same part number you installed?

Brian

ddtmoto said:
I replaced a Tire pressure sensor in the front today. The part number has been superceded  and I was hoping Kawi had made improvements. It looks like the units now have replaceable batteries. Good..
 
I know there is nothing on the fiche about the battery being renewable, but the housing/case looks to have a ear tab and notch. Looks like it could be opened. I did not try to open it. Maybe wishful thinkin? Anyway, I am glad they are covered under warranty for now...
 
ddtmoto said:
I know there is nothing on the fiche about the battery being renewable, but the housing/case looks to have a ear tab and notch. Looks like it could be opened. I did not try to open it. Maybe wishful thinkin? Anyway, I am glad they are covered under warranty for now...

I bought one (!) and cracked it open. You would have to desolder the battery to replace it.

 
The -0125 type are [disassemble able] but the battery is soldered in. Actually the tabs on the battery are soldered to the TPS itself. There is a Torx screw under the label that holds the two pieces of plastic together and once that is removed, the sensor halves will separate.

Unfortunately there is nothing driving LDL (the manufacturer) or Kawasaki to make the batteries serviceable. Both companies will sell some sensors just because most users will not change the battery. Just one of the downsides to mass marketing.

Brian


ddtmoto said:
I know there is nothing on the fiche about the battery being renewable, but the housing/case looks to have a ear tab and notch. Looks like it could be opened. I did not try to open it. Maybe wishful thinkin? Anyway, I am glad they are covered under warranty for now...
 
Are you saying KHI should replace the worn out front and rear air pressure sensor batteries free on my '08 with expired 3 year warranty, because the batteries are covered for 5 years not just 3?  Lew
 
Sounds like the extended warranty will easily pay for its self in the price of a pair of replaced TPMS in that coverage period...no brainer then
 
Thread resurrection.  >:D 

I've got a 2012 and my understanding is this year or there abouts is when Kawi made changes to the TPMS sensors?  I bought it new in 2/14, have a current extended warranty.  Even if the warranty would cover the TPMS/batteries, will replacements not be user serviceable (sealed beyond hope) and of a different design prohibiting me from ever putting new batteries in myself?  If so I'll do these myself and be done with it so long as my style allows me to get into it.

Am I correct in assuming that there is no need for a dealer reflash after new batteries are installed by me?

TIA
 
Have to ask again..
Has anyone discovered a way to change the batteries in the newer style units?
(I seem to recall that someone finally figured it out)

Ride safe, Ted
 
Thanks to Pangman on the Australian GTR forum:

OK, the FINAL result is OUT, cut the rest of the BS. We all know about replacing the battery in the early model TPSM.
Now here is the latest info from the horse's mouth. I have a flat battery in a TOTALLY sealed unit pic,1.With NOTHING to lose i decided to lash out and give it a go. Firstly u need to pick the shit out of the soft material in the top of the TPMS, it's a shit of a job and much care needs to be taken,pic 2, u will then see the battery, u then need to keep cutting and pulling all the shit out, (this is a form of silastic or something like it) until

vumPMaQ.png

z8r2nKL.png

GI1teHQ.png

XzvcPn5.png


u make it nice and clean.pic 3.
Now the battery in this unit is a CR2050HR, in battery terms that means, the first 2 # are the DIA and the second 2 # are the THICKNESS. So 20mm X .50mm, @ 3V. Also all 20mm batteries are 3V. the HR is HIGH TEMP, good but not really required in this case and 2050 are hard to get from yr local shop.
So i replaced the 2050 with 2032 same diam just a little thinner, same volt's.See pic, because i dug all the shit out i need to replace it something. I first put some race tape over the board then filled it with siliastic, also see pics.
Job DONE. REFITTED in the wheel road down the street, SHIT HOT ALL GOOD.



There's also this for BMW sensors, which look almost the same.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/tpms-light-giving-me-fits.746068/page-2
 
awesome... :great: :great: :great: :great: :beerchug: :beerchug: :beerchug: :beerchug:

when I was researching the higher capacity 2050 battery a year ago, I did find them, and with "tabs" mounted, let me dig back and find my link for them...

I just needed to see the "carnage" photos, to see how badly/much picking had to be done to get down to the battery...( the old photos we had somewhere 2 years ago, were much more horrible looking in the attempts that person made, to get to the battery... pretty much looked like they used a chainsaw..)

I'll be back... :great:

Maxell makes bothe versions, 2050 and 2032, in tabbed models....

http://www.maxell.com.tw/images/uploads/2014/10/HR_CR_13e.pdf

http://biz.maxell.com/en/primary_batteries/CRHR_18e.pdf

https://www.novitronic.ch/fm/2308/Maxell%20Batteries%20Catalog_181214.pdf

outragious price... but...
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32316433397.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Maxell-CR2050HR-CR2050-2050-3V-high-temperature-lithium-manganese-dioxide-battery-Li-ion-button-battery/32877806315.html

2032 with tabs from DigiKey

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/battery-products/batteries-non-rechargeable-primary/90?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&s=19771&sf=0&FV=ffe0005a&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
 
I ordered my 2032 with tabs from ?concole5? for $1.09 a piece.  Got 2 shipped to the house in a box for less than Amazon wanted for one battery.
 
punkynlew said:
Are you saying KHI should replace the worn out front and rear air pressure sensor batteries free on my '08 with expired 3 year warranty, because the batteries are covered for 5 years not just 3?  Lew


Are you saying the tire pressure sensors in your 11 year bike are under five years old? I don't know about the warranty on replaced sensors. I had Fred Harmon of:  http://www.angelridevideos.com/  replace my old sensor style batteries. (they work great by the way) I understand he can also do the new potted style of sensor. 

I also have to comment the front sensor died rather quickly in the front. The rear has actually hung on pretty good for a 10 year old C14.  The rear would read low battery until the tire warmed up. Then I would get a tire pressure reading. When the rear sensor went to Fred, it was still kicking.  Fred's turn around is pretty good too. I am just saying there might be an option available. I like the sensors as the rear tire sensor have warned of a pending flat twice and in time to get air to get home or get air to get me to a metric shop for a new tire.
 
punkynlew said:
Are you saying KHI should replace the worn out front and rear air pressure sensor batteries free on my '08 with expired 3 year warranty, because the batteries are covered for 5 years not just 3?  Lew

If you had purchased the extended warranty and then the sensor batteries had failed, Mama Kaw would replace them under the warranty.

But once all od the warranties run out, original or extended, TPMS replacement is on you...
 
Egodriver71 said:
punkynlew said:
Are you saying KHI should replace the worn out front and rear air pressure sensor batteries free on my '08 with expired 3 year warranty, because the batteries are covered for 5 years not just 3?  Lew

If you had purchased the extended warranty and then the sensor batteries had failed, Mama Kaw would replace them under the warranty.

But once all od the warranties run out, original or extended, TPMS replacement is on you...

he asked the question back in 2012....I don't think he's reading this now... :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:
 
Soldered in new batteries today and got everything back together - test ride.  Only the rear sensor was picked back up.  Still no front.  Ideas?
 
luv2fly said:
Soldered in new batteries today and got everything back together - test ride.  Only the rear sensor was picked back up.  Still no front.  Ideas?

bad solder joint
damaged batt during process
installed incorrectly (polarity)
all of the above, or just a bad batt from the start (did you volt check it before?)

the sensor should have been "tested" prior to install, by tieing a string to it, and with the bike on and running, spinning the sensor in a circle vigorously on the string, verify it gets read.

Or, taping it inside the spokes of the rear wheel on an inverted bicycle and spinning it up for a minute will do the same.

always test, before install.. saves pealing a tire off... again.
 
MAN OF BLUES said:
luv2fly said:
Soldered in new batteries today and got everything back together - test ride.  Only the rear sensor was picked back up.  Still no front.  Ideas?

bad solder joint
damaged batt during process
installed incorrectly (polarity)
all of the above, or just a bad batt from the start (did you volt check it before?)

the sensor should have been "tested" prior to install, by tieing a string to it, and with the bike on and running, spinning the sensor in a circle vigorously on the string, verify it gets read.

Or, taping it inside the spokes of the rear wheel on an inverted bicycle and spinning it up for a minute will do the same.

always test, before install.. saves pealing a tire off... again.

..........and after soldering?  I momentarily shorted one out while soldering and that killed it.
 
Thanks MOB.  At least I don't have that annoying alert on my dash.  Gotta get this fixed.  Hate not having it.  I'll tear into it again.

Is there a way to check if I shorted out the sensor?
 
Do a volt check on the battery.  When spinning the sensor by hand it takes 60-75 seconds to register on the display, which will show 0 psi and the red warning light.
 
If you decide to not replace the battery and just put in a new TPMS unit, how to you get the new sensor to work with your bike?
 
luv2fly said:
Soldered in new batteries today and got everything back together - test ride.  Only the rear sensor was picked back up.  Still no front.  Ideas?
I had a front sensor go bad after about 8 years. after third battery replacement it would work only randomly and stay on for no more that 4 or 5 miles. I speculate that the accelerometer device that turns it on and off by wheel rotation can wear out from metal fatigue.
 
RUFFSTUFF said:
If you decide to not replace the battery and just put in a new TPMS unit, how to you get the new sensor to work with your bike?

PRIOR to replacing the sensor, you record the number on it, or retain the paper it comes with, with said code number, and after it's installed, it must be "paired" into the ECU, using the KDS3 propriatary software and plug in unit. It's important to record the data before installing, the KDS cannot "identify and add" it on it's own, it has to be manually input.
 
RUFFSTUFF said:
Egodriver71 said:
RUFFSTUFF said:
So what hacker do I have to bribe to get the software and plug-in unit?

:))


SiSF

Is there a version of that with more letters?
SISF is Steve In Sunny Florida.  Steve Sefsick is the owner of shoodaben engineering.  Steve is THE guy for carb work, including overflow tubes for C10's as well as other goodies like his torque cams.  For the C14 Steve has various "flashes" for the ECU that correct fueling issues that mama kaw didn't spend enough time on.  Check out the links below.
https://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQEFWeFeqUo&t=5s
Steve would be one of the guys that you wish was traveling with you when your bike is on the side of the road dead.  Hope that clears things up for ya. ;)
 
I called my local Kawasaki shop today to order a new TPMS for the front and make sure they have Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT front and rear in stock.
2 things to discuss: They only have Road 5 now, and Kawasaki discontinued the TPMS for my 2011 and are saying the new one for the newer C14 will work. He said it operates in the same 315 hz frequency. I have the extended warranty is why I'm going for a new sensor.
Has anyone tried the new sensor on an older bike, and has anyone rode the Road 5 yet?
 
Vader , I installed the new style sensors on both front & rear , did the work myself & dealer charged me $25.00 to program them. that was on my 2010 and about 4 years ago.
 
Vader said:
I called my local Kawasaki shop today to order a new TPMS for the front and make sure they have Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT front and rear in stock.
2 things to discuss: They only have Road 5 now, and Kawasaki discontinued the TPMS for my 2011 and are saying the new one for the newer C14 will work. He said it operates in the same 315 hz frequency. I have the extended warranty is why I'm going for a new sensor.
Has anyone tried the new sensor on an older bike, and has anyone rode the Road 5 yet?

Spiderman said:
Vader , I installed the new style sensors on both front & rear , did the work myself & dealer charged me $25.00 to program them. that was on my 2010 and about 4 years ago.

Spidey, you must have had the new ones installed at that period, I have to presume...
good price tho on the programming... :great:

the "new" sensors are all that are available now, for current bikes... if you have a pre '13 bike, and had a KPP extension updates, that provided covereage under KPP for replacement, they will "keep" the sensors they pull out (and send them back to Kaw, to verify the replacement), unfortunatly the new style are made to prevent replacing a battery.. (yes, I know people are "saying they can do them"... but I am not positive they are able to "correctly"... in other words, until I see a dozen, I ain't agreeing they can be done reliably)... Hold on to your old sensors, and have the battery replaced... loosing an old sensor for a new style, is tossing away money..

I do suggest going back, and reading this whole discussion, from the beginning, and decide on your desires to try it...
We already know how the success ratio on the old sensors replacements went (very good success ratio), the new one... so far, just the reported posting Freddy found, from an Aussie website, and kindly posted here...  personally, I'd give it a go, after seeing the pictures... but then, I'm cheap, so if I hosed an already dead sensor... meh...

jmho

I had my "old style" ones replaced under warranty in fall of '12, and luckily I got some of the last "old style ones" in the replacement... next time I need them done, I'll do my own battery replacements... and I tried to get my old ones, but they wouldn't let me have them...(as I wanted to replace those batteries when the ones I got, needed replacing... and then both sets were already programmed into my ECU, so I could swap...)

just for a refresher on the progression;

pre  '13 models
21176-0107  SENSOR,TPMS 315MHZ
superseded by
SENSOR,TPMS 315MHZ
21176-0125 ..... no longer available... neither number

post changeover '14 to current...
21176-0748  SENSOR,TPMS 315MHZ

$213.02 each...
 
MOB , yes they were the new style and I still have the old ones. Are you saying both sets would still be programmed in the ECU ?
 
Thx for the info guys. I will try to keep the old if possible. I've already had the rear replaced a couple of years ago (need to check my records) and i don't know what model I got. I never thought to try to keep the old one.
 
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