Nice Difference - should have done this sooner!

[RideBellChain]

Yep, I'm guilty of procrastination.  BIG TIME.

It took 15 minutes for my buddy and I to set the Sag on the bike, and tweak the rebound.  Seriously EASY, and you should do it if you don't weigh 140-160 pounds. (That's what the bike is setup for at the dealership when you buy new.)

Here's what we did:

1. Put on my gear, and anything that I consider "normal" everyday things that go with - bags, rear trunk, tankbag (which actually lives in the trunk until I "need" the trunk).

2. Start with the back of the bike.  Get on the bike.  Bounce on it a few times, get off.  Measure the distance from the rear reflector bottom to the ground.  This is the "unloaded" ride height.  Write it down.

3. Get on the bike.  Do your best to steady the bike level, but try to keep all of  your weight in the seat and not on your feet.  I did this by using my "tip-toes" as lightly as possible to act like outriggers.  You want all your weight on the bike, ok?    A third person makes it easier, but we did it like this.  Take the same measurements again.  Write it down.

4. Subtract the 2 numbers.  The objective is to make adjustments either "harder or softer" so that when you do the two measurements again, you're at 30-32mm (for starters). 

5. Once you have the rear, do the same with the front.  You need a 17mm wrench.  TURN EACH SIDE EQUALLY.  Seriously.  Tighten to raise the front...loosen to lower it.  There's lines etched that you can easily see with a flashlight, so write down your final setup and date it.

I feel a noticable and better difference during acceleration and braking, but as I was riding around today on my new PR2's and the new setup, I came to the conclusion that it's a much better ride today than the first 2300 miles.

It doesn't dive as much when you use the rear brakes only and the system clamps the one front caliper, and using both brakes I don't feel as much of that "rocking horse" motion when I'm turning the throttle (faster or slower).

I also think it likes to stay at the same angle in the turn a little better, too.  I don't have any sweeping turns, so I'm talking about 90 degree turns in traffic.

Anyway...go ahead and do these little adjustments and you'll be glad you did!

 

[bakerman]

Thanks, good post.

Are you also setting the sag on the front at 30 ~ 32 mm?

 

[Frank ZZR]

You may want to re check your settings. The 30-32mm reading should be with the rear suspension totally unloaded including the weight of the bike.

 

[noisycats]

I also have the same question as Bakerman.

I measured mine tonight. However the front was only at 7mm and making it 30 - 32 seems like a pretty big jump. The rear was 26 though so 30mm wasn't too far away.

Anyone?

 

[Frank ZZR]

I set my front rider sag at 40mm. Recommeded is 35-48mm. Mine started out at 120mm with the front wheel raised and came down to 88mm with me on the bike. I then set it at 80mm. 120-80= 40mm sag.  Not sure what you are measuring to get 7mm. Your measurement is off. 

 

[ddialogue]

I set my front rider sag at 40mm. Recommeded is 35-48mm. Mine started out at 120mm with the front wheel raised and came down to 88mm with me on the bike. I then set it at 80mm. 120-80= 40mm sag.  Not sure what you are measuring to get 7mm. Your measurement is off.

Would you mind providing some detail on how/where you're taking your measurements from?  Thanks!  :beerchug:

**EDIT** Nevermind.  I found an excellent article that explains it perfectly!

Here's a snippet of the most important details:

Step one is to determine your fork and shock's fully extended (unladen) measurements. To do this you'll need to get both wheels off the ground, though not at the same time. On bikes with sidestands, the front wheel can be raised relatively easily by rocking the bike over on its stand and raising the front end; this is much harder to do with the rear wheel, but it can be done if the person doing the raising is both strong and coordinated. Centerstands make raising the rear wheel simple, though an underengine stand (or a sidestand) will be necessary for bikes lacking them.

For the back wheel number, measure the distance from the axle vertically to some point on the chassis using a tape measure; metric figures are easiest and more precise. A graphic point on the sidepanel or the bottom edge of the panel itself work well as reference points. Be sure to mark the exact points you used because you'll need to refer to them again. Record this measurement on a notepad next to the notation marked "R, unladen." Up front, extend the fork completely with the wheel in the air and measure from the wiper (the dust seal between the shiny slider and textured stanchion) to a point on the bottom triple clamp (or the lower fork casting on an inverted fork). Record this measurement next to the notation "F, unladen."

Now you're ready to record the same two measurements with the fully outfitted rider on the bike (these would be the "laden" numbers). Ask a buddy to hold the front or back of the bike while you get settled, and have a third person (preferably the one who took the unladen measurements) record the laden numbers front and rear. Mark these as "R, laden" and "F, laden." Subtract the laden front and rear numbers from the unladen front and rear numbers and bingo!--you've got your two sag numbers.

Thede likes to work with 30-35mm of sag on streetbikes, 25-30mm for racebikes. Your numbers will likely be higher than these (a softer ride), in which case you'll want to increase spring preload on the shock and/or fork. If your numbers are less than these (a firmer ride), try reducing preload a bit. Adjust things until the measurements fall within acceptable parameters. You'll have to remeasure after making the preload changes, of course.

Remember, there is no magic number. If you like the feel of the bike with slightly less or more sag than these guidelines, no worries. Your personal sag and front-to-rear sag bias will depend on various factors, including chassis geometry, track or road conditions, tire selection, rider weight and/or riding style.

:motonoises:

 

[ejames]

I read as much as I could and used a nice write-up to write specific instructions for the C-14. Please read the disclaimer!! Makes a big difference!!! 

Adjusting Suspension on a Kawasaki Concours 14

The steps provided below were summarized and adapted for the Kawasaki Concours 14 using the excellent instructions provided on the Go Star Racing (How I set up my Motorbike) website:

http://www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm

I would highly recommend reading through those more-detailed instructions before simply using the distilled instructions I have provided below.

When setting up the suspension, you will adjust the rear preload, front preload, front damping, and finally the rear damping – in this order.

The Kawasaki Concours 14 does not allow for separate damping of compression and rebound. Therefore, a compromise must be made between the two, as explained in the following set-up instructions.

A. Setting the Rear and Front Pre-load

I. Adjusting the Rear Pre-Load

1. Put the bike on the center stand allowing the rear wheel to be suspended in air.
2. Find a point on the bike directly above the rear axle and measure the distance in millimeters from the axle to this point (The point selected is not important. It is only important to be consistent in measuring from both locations). This is the UNLOADED Distance =_____ mm
3. Put the bike back on level ground (off of center stand) and bounce up and down a few times. Re-measure from the two points used previously. This is the NORMAL Distance = _____mm.
4. Sit on the bike in full gear and bounce up and down a few times. Get in your normal riding position with feet on the pegs. Measure the distance between the two points used previously. This is the LOADED Distance = ____mm.
5. Calculations:

Static Sag = UNLOADED  - NORMAL  = ____mm. This is how much you can lift rear before topping out the suspension. GOAL = 5-10 mm
Rider Sag = UNLOADED – LOADED = ____mm. This is the amount of compression of suspension with bike wt and rider wt. GOAL = 30-40 mm (Ideal – 35mm)
6. Adjust the rear preload by turning the black knob on the left side of the motorcycle near the passenger peg. Turn clockwise to increase preload (reduce amount of Rider Sag) or counter clockwise to decrease preload (increase Rider Sag). Record total Rear Rider Sag = ____mm.
7. Re-check the Static Sag (although not adjustable) to see if it remains between 5-10mm. If greater than 10mm, you may need a stiffer rear spring. If less than 5mm, you may need softer springs for your weight.
8. If Static Sag is less than 5mm, you must compromise and re-adjust the pre-load to give 5mm – to prevent topping out.
9. To record the final pre-load setting, either rotate the pre-load adjustment knob fully in or fully out while counting the number of clicks to reach either extreme. Return the knob to the adjusted setting and record the number of clicks. Preload = ____clicks from max (fully clockwise) or ____ clicks from min (fully counter clockwise).

II. Adjusting the Front Pre-load

1. Method #1: Stationary Static/Rider Sag Method (not recommended)

A. A. Put the bike on the center stand allowing the front wheel to be suspended in air.
B. Find a point on the bike directly above the front axle, along the angle of the fork, and measure the distance in millimeters from the axle to this point (The point selected is not important. It is only important to be consistent in measuring from both locations). This is the UNLOADED Distance =_____ mm
C. Put the bike back on level ground (off of center stand) and bounce up and down a few times. Re-measure from the two points used previously. This is the NORMAL Distance = _____mm.
D. Sit on the bike in full gear and bounce up and down a few times. Get in your normal riding position with feet on the pegs. Measure the distance between the two points used previously. This is the LOADED Distance = ____mm.
E. Calculations:
Static Sag = UNLOADED  - NORMAL  = ____mm. This is how much you can lift front before topping out the suspension. GOAL = 25-30 mm
Rider Sag = UNLOADED – LOADED = ____mm. This is the amount of compression of suspension with bike wt and rider wt. GOAL = 35-48 mm
F. Adjust the front preload by turning the screws (with rings) on top of the forks. Turn clockwise to increase preload (reduce amount of Rider Sag) or counter clockwise to decrease preload (increase Rider Sag). Record total Front Rider Sag = ____mm.
G. Re-check the Static Sag (although not adjustable) to see if it remains between 25-30mm.
H. If Static Sag is less than 25mm, you must compromise and re-adjust the pre-load to give 25mm – to prevent topping out.
I. Record the final pre-load setting, by either recording the number of rings on the adjustment screw or the length of the screw protruding from the forks. Preload = ____rings or ____mm from _________ to _____________.

2. Method #2 (Recommended “Real World” Method)

A. Wrap cable ties around the smooth part of the forks (clip off excess). Do not make too tight to avoid damaging the rubber seals.
B. Slide ties up against rubber seals and take the bike out for a road test.
C. Ride in normal driving situations making sure to involve cornering, braking and other “typical” driving conditions for the driving you routinely do.
D. Stop and measure the distance of the tie from the bottom of the fork tube.
E. If the ties are less than 10mm from the bottom (bottomed out), increase the pre-load by turning the lined nuts on top of the forks clockwise. If the ties are more than 10mm, decrease the pre-load by turning the ringed nuts counter clockwise. Adjust in small (one line) increments, slide the ties back against the rubber seals, and re-test. Always set the forks at the same setting.
F. Record the final setting. Preload = ____rings or ____mm from _________ to _____________.


B. Setting the Front and Rear Damping

I. Damping – Compression and Rebound (Overview)

A. General Information
-Unlike pre-load, damping really comes down to personal preference – with some safety considerations as well. Overall, it depends on the bike, your riding style, the tires, the tire pressure, the tire shape, etc.
-On the Kawasaki Concours 14, damping is a compromise between compression and rebound, since they can not be adjusted separately.
-If you run out of damping during adjustment (max in or out), you may need to change fork oil for your style of riding.
- Among other things, the bike will handle differently under high and low speeds and wet and dry roads. Damping may need to be adjusted for different conditions.
B. Compression
-The goal is to compress the front in a slow and controlled fashion. The forward weight transfer helps slow the bike quicker.
-If too hard, the bike will skip or chatter over bumps. You can’t compress fast enough, which results in compromised ride and braking – especially in wet conditions.
-If too soft, the bike feels “vague” (poor feedback) and the suspension may bottom out.
-When set correctly, the front compresses in a controlled, predictable manner, which shortens the wheelbase and allows for faster, more predictable, cornering
C. Rebound
-Controls the rate at which the bike “sits-up” after compression. Proper adjustment is critical in corners and turns.
-If set too hard, the rider experiences a lack of feedback and the suspension can continue to “pump down” until the forks are bottomed-out, which is extremely dangerous
-If set too soft, the front-end will pop-up resulting in a loss of traction.


II. Adjusting the Front Damping

- If the front damping is not done correctly, the bike will either sit-up too quickly (too soft) and drift out (washes out) or turn in too quickly (too hard) and feel “wooden.”

1. Method #1 (Simplistic – not recommended)

A. With the bike held level, press on the steering yoke, without holding the brake, and then let go.
B. Observe the distance the yoke travels and the time it takes to return to the starting position.
C. If it takes longer than 1 second to return to the starting position, decrease the rebound (black knob on top of forks counter clockwise).
D. If it takes less than 1 second or goes beyond the starting position, increase the damping (black knob on top of forks clockwise).
E. To record the final front damping setting, either rotate the damping adjustment knob fully in or fully out while counting the number of clicks to reach either extreme. Return the knob to the adjusted setting and record the number of clicks. Front Damping = ____clicks from max (fully clockwise) or ____ clicks from min (fully counter clockwise).

2. Method #2 (“Real World” Method)

A. Take the bike out and find a good road for cornering (Sweeping back roads).
B. Since most accidents happen during cornering, we are going to set-up the suspension for cornering. Goal is to get the bike to enter and exit corners with minimal rocking or see-sawing.
C. When set-up correctly, the rider will be able to brake hard before a turn or at the apex of a turn, let go of brakes, and get back on the throttle without the bike see-sawing (Sit-up or Dive)
D. Ride through a series of turns making note of the bikes tendency to rock or see-saw. Adjust the damping one click at a time (some do this over days of riding) to see how the change affects the handling and comfort (feedback).
E. Once you find the handling and comfort that fits your riding style, record the final front damping setting, by either rotating the damping adjustment knob fully in or fully out while counting the number of clicks to reach either extreme. Front Damping = ____clicks from max (fully clockwise) or ____ clicks from min (fully counter clockwise).


III. Adjusting the Rear Damping
A. Background

a. Compression
- If the rear damping is not done correctly, the bike will be too bouncy (too hard) or will exhibit excessive squatting (too soft) on hard acceleration.
- Some squatting (compression) under acceleration is required to ensure good traction, but too much leads to poor exiting from corners.
- Too soft and the nose will come up and cause the front tire to drift wide on exiting.
- Too hard and the rear wheel will spin and slip (kicked-up) 
b. Rebound
- When adjusted correctly, the rear wheel remains in good contact with the road for optimal traction.
- When too soft, the chassis will feel unsettled making the bike wallow and lurch mid-corner
- When too hard, the rear wheel will not sit-up quick enough resulting in the nose up and the bike drifting wide, with a vagueness and loss of traction.

B. Setting Rear Damping on a Concours 14

1. Stand the bike on level ground
2. Press hard on the foot peg nearest to you.
3. The bike should compress equally front and back
4. Adjust the small screw (straight blade) at the bottom of the rear shock (screw faces toward left side). Turn clockwise to increase.
5. Once the bike is set to compress equally, the suspension adjustments are complete.

C. Notes

- These instruction were written by a novice (non-professional) and simply represent my attempt at understanding and applying instructions for adjusting the suspension on a Kawasaki Concours motorcycle.
- An improperly adjusted suspension can result in an accident causing injury or death.
- Adjustments to the suspension should only be made by someone qualified to make such adjustments
- Anyone following the instructions provided in this document is doing so at their own risk.