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No Oil Pressure

A

Andy-WV

Member
Member
I have a 2006 Connie with 25,000 miles. I have no oil pressure after oil and filter change. If I rev it up to 5000 rpms it finaly picks up oil. After that it works fine till the next oil change.I am thinking about pulling the oil pan for a look see. Any ideas.I use 10/40 syn.oil and spin on kawi filters. THANKS ANDY-WV
 
Good luck, my 2oo6 did the same thing, never could find a problem.Replaced the filter with another and problem solved. Also mine will loose oil pressure if I make a hard front brake stop and it will not return oil pressure unless I blip the engine to 6000. The pressure will not return if it sits. I let it set for 3 days once, starting it often and the pressure did not come up until I bliped it to 6000. I dropped the oil pan and checked every thing, could find nothing wrong. Still waiting for someone to explain that.
 
Are you sure it has no oil pressure? I'd look @ the idiot light switch first. If you put an oil pressure gauge on it & check it after the next oil change, you can see what's up. I'd put a tee in the gauge line & verify oil pressure & light operation @ the same time. Otherwise, the pressure relief valve might have a problem. I'm not a Kaw expert, but I owned an auto electric shop for 27 years. Don
 
when changing the oil I let the bike idle when I start it up. It takes a few to build oil pressure, I sure wouldn't be revving it with no pressure. David in Jax COG# 7898 NE FL AAD & COG Vendor www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zzr1200/index.html
 
On mine I installed a oil pressure that confirmed the loss of oil pressure. Once in heavy traffic with no where to go after a hard slowdown I rode about 2 miles with the oil light on (no gauge yet to confirm no pressure) that seemed to cause no damage. At 26000 miles it is running like a top. I don't think a quick blip to 6000 restore oil pressure once in a great while will do immediate damage.
 
Ron, What did you mean when you said "replaced oil filter, problem solved". Mine also does the hard braking oil light thing and I also have to rev it up. Dave, what did you mean when you said "It takes a few to build oil pressure." A few what? I let mine idle a couple minutes till the engine started getting louder, tapping like sounds. I shut it off. Restarted it and reved it up to 5000 rpms right away, light went off, engine got quiet. Did not use gage but removed sending unit, no oil. ANDY-WV
 
Andy When you say
and spin on kawi filters.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by that? The stock filter does not spin on as such. It's as paper filer that sits on s spindle with a washer and spring. Many folks loose the washer. Ideally you need both. Some folks have fitted Bergmans spin on filter kit so a regular 'spin on' car style filter of the right type can be used. I am intrigued on this issue, I can understand why the oil light can go on briefly during heavy prolonged breaking as oil will shift forward in the sump and possibly pool in the head to some extent until the pickup is sucking on air. But once the oil pickup is back in oil it ought to begin pumping again, unless the pickup mesh is badly blocked or perhaps the pump is not self priming correctly. I have not seen my oil light come on, under heavy breaking but I do make sure the oil level is level with the top mark of the [ in the sight glass with the scoot on the center stand.
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Ron, What did you mean when you said replaced oil filter, problem solved". I was talking about the time when I changed oil and filter and after the change the oil pressure light would not go off. I removed the filter, put the old (dirty) filter back on and the light went out when started. I took the filter back to Pep Boys, exchanged it. Most of think it was a bad batch of filters. (Purolator) The problem with the oil pressure light coming on and staying on during hard braking has not been solved.
 
Colin, I have beat my head on the wall trying to find out what causes the light to come on and stay on. I have had bikes in the past tha the light would flicker during hard braking but never stay on. When it goes on it will not go of unless you blip it to about 6 grand. I have let it set 3 days and the light never went out until I bliped it. I pulled the pan, checked everything could find nothing wrong. Been riding 42 years, worked on bikes all that time even worked in a friends motorcycle shop after I retired for a few years. Me or any of the mechs I worked have a clue. Sorta ticks me off.
 
I have the spin on filter kit. I have used Fram and Kawasaki brand filters. It does not seem to be filter related because if I change filter only, I have no problem. Andy-WV
 
i haven't seen the filter mod installed but i'm running the stock setup on my 04. i've seen the light flicker once or twice under extremely hard braking. as quick as it came on it went back off. i'm guessing there's some kind of plate with hoses coming off where the filter cover would normally be. could the hoses be routed in such a way that an air bubble get's trapped in the line if the pump gets a gulp of air? is the filter in a position to be able to fill it before you install it during oil changes. i know i don't like my engine idling with the oil light on let alone blipping the throttle. just throwing it out there. hth, tom
 
Ron Moss - do you have a spin on filter also? Bergmen looked into this issue, and all he could come up with was on the purolator pure one filters, the media was dense enough to restrict flow on a motorcycle. also, a stiff anti-drainback valve will cause this. Spinning your engine to 5000 or 6000 is not a good thing to do with no oil pressure. what's happening is that the increased rpms increase the flow and overcomes the filter restriction. The problem is that you're hitting alot of rpm's with no oil on the bearings. Oh, it seems fine now, but when you're riding 5000 miles from now and a rod ventilates the case, you're not gonna like it. Steve
 
Steve asked "Ron Moss - do you have a spin on filter also?" Yes, and going to a different filter solved the problem with no oil light after an oil and filter change. But it did nothing for the problem with the oil light coming on and staying on after hard front wheel breaking. The bike has not done it in some time because I haven't had to make a panic stop lately. I quit practicing my panic stops because of the loss of pressure. I hate that because i like to keep my skill level up at all time. Also I'm upset because I or no one else can find a solution so the problem can be fixed. I love the bike. (26000 miles, runs perfect) But it has turned into a love/hate relationship.
 
I'm back. Still no oil pressure. Removed oil pan, removed oil pump and dissasembled. Found nothing wrong.
 
Sounds like a spin-on filter prob to me. I'd put it back to stock & give it a go. 01 Conc, Mijami Floriduh OTP 06: http://tinyurl.com/2vk9o2 route map: http://tinyurl.com/4p7pmd
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+1 I would suggest you go back to the stock setup and remove the spin-on oil filter. And see if everything works fine The standard paper filter is very simple and likely offers way less restriction to the oil flow. If that cures the issue we can
 
The Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Kit is a passive adaptation to the oil delivery system that allows the use of a modern spin-on oil filter (both automotive specific and motorcycle specific) in place of the stock internal paper cartridge oil filter. Here is a cross-sectional comparison of the stock vs. spin-on kit:
2672228000053667879S600x600Q85.jpg
The particular filter shown has the bypass valve on the top of the assembly stack. I have found that most filters have the bypass valve on the bottom. They both do the same job. An exploded view comparison:
2865990770053667879S600x600Q85.jpg
There have been sporadic instances of oil pressure issues with certain filters. Changing to a filter of different manufature or part number has solved past problems. Without sophisticated testing equipment to verify, it has been speculated by knowledgable people I have discussed this issue with that either the media density was flow-restrictive or the bypass valve release pressure was too high. Those that I have communicated with that had this issue changed filters and solved the problem. Hope this helps. Dan
 
The oil pressure problem started before I put the spin on kit on. I will try the stock one when I get it back together.
 
Houston, we have oil pressure. I finally got the connie back together and running. Oil pressure after 5 seconds of idle. Replaced oil pump and all the O rings. All O rings looked good. Oil pump was scored lightly on outer surface of outer rotor where it rides in the case. Didn't look that bad but I replaced the whole pump assembly any how. Seems to have done the trick. I kept spin on kit with the same kawi filter I always use. Thanks Everyone for all the help. Andy-WV :)
 
Thats great news Did you check the oil pump specs against the service manual? Well done for figuring it out! Colin
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