Oil filter observation -NOT AN OIL THREAD! ***UPDATE***

[Strawboss]

-OK, bear with me here. For those who do not use or like FRAM filters, exit now.
-I have the old SPOOFAK from Bergmen on my C-10. I use the FRAM 7317 filter.
-FRAM 6017A is the equivalent of the Kawasaki filter for the C-14
-I could not find any reference for using the 7317 on the C-14 in all books I found.-
-Most companies that make filters use a proprietary prefix and the FRAM filter number.
-Only one cross reference was found, Wal-Mart, ok for lawn mowers and your '75 Volare with a slant-6 but not my C-14. Not sure who makes them for Wal-Mart but my luck, it would be FRAM!
-The other day while perusing a FRAM cross reference book, I looked up WIX filter equivalents to FRAM filters.
-The WIX filter number for FRAM 6017 and 7317 are the same.
-Therefore, I'm thinking the 6017A and the 7317 have the same internals., externally the 7317 is a bit longer.
-So, 7317 or a WIX.


Now, if someone can make a SPOOFAK for old KZ motors, wait, my '82 KZ550A had the same cartridge filter and housing as the C-10, think the SPOOFAK for the C-10 would bolt up to the KZ? That would be bodacious.

 

[Scary Harry]

externally the 7317 is a bit longer

My choice is the FRAM XG 7317 and I also see in my collection the BOSCH 3323.
I like the bit longer part as it can hold a tad bit more oil. The XG also has a sexier look to it.

 

[laker9142]

I used to use k&ns until they went to $17. Used to find them for 10 on Amazon. I found oem filters online for under $9. FYI, partshark.com.

 

[sean97123638]

I run the K & P engineering reusable billet oil filters on all my bikes. It is aircraft certified and flows considerably better than any paper filter. Never an issue with any of them. They are not cheap thou.

 

[connie_rider]

I bought a special K&N oil filter that is longer than the std filters for our bikes.
I did this bekuz it holds more oil, and costs less than the K&N 303.

More oil "ist gut"..
Less $$ "ist" bettah!!

Haven't looked at the number recently;
It could be a KN-198. {13mm longer and 1mm narrower}
But it's probably a KN-196 {14mm longer and 2mm wider}

As I sed, Surprisingly both the 196 and the 198 cost less than the 303.
My guess is the 303 is considered a motorcycle filter (so it costs more), and the 196 or 198 are considered an automotive filter (so they cost less). .

fyi;
The hex nut on the bottom of the filters has another useful function that folks may not be aware of..
ie; You can put a washer style magnet over it, and the hex helps keep the magnet in place.
If you do this, the ID of the magnet needs to be about 3/4" to 1".
(The magnet attracts metal particles as the oil passes thru the filter and helps keep them "IN"side the filter)

Looks like this;

​

 

[rev ryder]

I use Wix from NAPA aka Napa Gold on the spoofak and the C14, but can't recall the numbers. Probably outta change em all in that case, eh?

 

[Strawboss]

Thanks for all the info guys, good stuff. I have some research to do.

 

[Konehead34]

I bought a special K&N oil filter that is longer than the std filters for our bikes.
I did this bekuz it holds more oil, and costs less than the K&N 303.

More oil "ist gut"..
Less $$ "ist" bettah!!

Haven't looked at the number recently;
It could be a KN-198. {13mm longer and 1mm narrower}
But it's probably a KN-196 {14mm longer and 2mm wider}

As I sed, Surprisingly both the 196 and the 198 cost less than the 303.
My guess is the 303 is considered a motorcycle filter (so it costs more), and the 196 or 198 are considered an automotive filter (so they cost less). .

fyi;
The hex nut on the bottom of the filters has another useful function that folks may not be aware of..
ie; You can put a washer style magnet over it, and the hex helps keep the magnet in place.
If you do this, the ID of the magnet needs to be about 3/4" to 1".
(The magnet attracts metal particles as the oil passes thru the filter and helps keep them "IN"side the filter)

Looks like this;
View attachment 37340

​

Ted, does murphs oil filter protector work on tje non 303 filter? How much narrower are the non 303 filters. I.can go.measure a 303 if need be, as I was gonna change my oil this weekend..

 

[cuda]

See back in 1978 we had no internet. so I didn't know Frams were junk, so I put 360,000 miles on that 300 straight six in a new E150 ,

The body rotted away , but I pulled that motor out and sold it, the buyer said he wanted topull the head. He figured it should be freshened up ,

When the head came off everyone could not believe how little wear, and no lip at the top of ring travel, I always used Mobil 1

The work was done at my friend's HD bike shop. This was the mid 80's and many mechanics didn't believe in Synthetics.

92% of Germany's aviation gas and half it's total petroleum during WW2, they had 25 Synfuel plantsproducing more than 124,000 barrels per day/

Never had a problem with Fram, just use good oil

 

[connie_rider]

Ted, does murphs oil filter protector work on tje non 303 filter? How much narrower are the non 303 filters. I.can go.measure a 303 if need be, as I was gonna change my oil this weekend..

Yes. Works fine.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[Strawboss]

So, without starting a new thread and on a similar topic.

Can anyone just give me a quick rundown on the internal differences of various filters, meaning, aside from outside dimensions of length and size, I imagine makers want a particular element for filtration and probably some sort of pressure relief valve for full acceleration . I guess what I'm saying is, you probably can't just find a filter that's the same size as factory and slap it on as there are considerations. A filter for a Briggs and Stratton tractor motor, even though it may be the same external size, shape and length, is most likely NOT a filter for a Hayabusa. Is this true?

Please, don't not simply post a link or some sort of web site, I won't open it or read it, just a quick couple of sentences will do.

 

[bergmen]

-OK, bear with me here. For those who do not use or like FRAM filters, exit now.
-I have the old SPOOFAK from Bergmen on my C-10. I use the FRAM 7317 filter.
-FRAM 6017A is the equivalent of the Kawasaki filter for the C-14
-I could not find any reference for using the 7317 on the C-14 in all books I found.-
-Most companies that make filters use a proprietary prefix and the FRAM filter number.
-Only one cross reference was found, Wal-Mart, ok for lawn mowers and your '75 Volare with a slant-6 but not my C-14. Not sure who makes them for Wal-Mart but my luck, it would be FRAM!
-The other day while perusing a FRAM cross reference book, I looked up WIX filter equivalents to FRAM filters.
-The WIX filter number for FRAM 6017 and 7317 are the same.
-Therefore, I'm thinking the 6017A and the 7317 have the same internals., externally the 7317 is a bit longer.
-So, 7317 or a WIX.


Now, if someone can make a SPOOFAK for old KZ motors, wait, my '82 KZ550A had the same cartridge filter and housing as the C-10, think the SPOOFAK for the C-10 would bolt up to the KZ? That would be bodacious.

Here is the list of the Kawasaki motorcycles qualified to use the SPOOFAK. There are technical reasons that other Kawasaki models should not use this kit even though the stock oil filter components are mostly the same. I can elaborate if necessary.

Kawasaki Motorcycle Model Qualification List

Bergmen Engineering, Inc. Model 410-010 Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Kit

Dan Bergmen, February 1, 2010​

This Kit was originally designed for use on the ZG1000 Concours but can be used without modification on several Kawasaki motorcycle models. The use of this kit on models other than the ZG1000 Concours is subject to official qualification by Bergmen Engineering, Inc.

Neither Bergmen Engineering, Inc. nor Murphskits LLC can be held responsible for any technical issues that arise from the mounting of this kit on any motorcycle model that is not listed as officially qualified.

Kawasaki Motorcycle Models Officially Qualified to use the Model 410-010 Spin-on Oil Filter Adaptor Kit:

Model Number	Name​	Series​	Years​
EX250	Ninja	E1, E2; F2-F19; F6F-​	1986-Present​
EL250	Eliminator 250	B2​	1988​
ZX900	Ninja	A1-A3​	1984-1986​
ZL900	Eliminator	A1-A2​	1985-1986​
ZG1000 Concours	Concours	A1 to A21​	1986-2006​
ZL1000	Eliminator	A1​	1987​
ZX1000	Ninja 1000R	A1-A2​	1986-1987​
ZX1000	Ninja ZX10	B1-B3​	1988-1990​
ZX1100 (ZX11)	Ninja	C1 to C4​	1990-1993​
ZX1100 (ZX11)	Ninja	D1 to D9​	1993-2001​
ZX1100	GPZ1100	E1 to E3​	1995-1997​
ZX1100	GPZ1100 ABS	F1​	1996​
ZR1100	ZR1100	A1 to A4​	1992-1995​
ZR1100	ZRX1100	C3 to C4​	1999-2000​
ZR1200	ZRX1200R	A1 to A5​	2001-2005​
ZX1200	ZZR1200	C1 to C4​	2002-2005​
ZG1200	Voyager-XII	A1​	1986​
ZG1200	Voyager-XII	B1 to B17​	1987-2003​

 

[bergmen]

So, without starting a new thread and on a similar topic.

Can anyone just give me a quick rundown on the internal differences of various filters, meaning, aside from outside dimensions of length and size, I imagine makers want a particular element for filtration and probably some sort of pressure relief valve for full acceleration . I guess what I'm saying is, you probably can't just find a filter that's the same size as factory and slap it on as there are considerations. A filter for a Briggs and Stratton tractor motor, even though it may be the same external size, shape and length, is most likely NOT a filter for a Hayabusa. Is this true?

Please, don't not simply post a link or some sort of web site, I won't open it or read it, just a quick couple of sentences will do.

I did a tremendous amount of spin-on oil filter research when doing the engineering on the SPOOFAK for the ZG1000 Concours. I was able to connect with a design engineer at Purolator (who was a motorcyclist and owned a Kawasaki that could use the kit eventually).

He was the only person that was willing to open up a bit on filter design and functions. No other filter company was willing to share anything other than published specifications. I did find that there was a short list of actual manufacturers that marketed their filters under a variety of retailers. Mobil One, Napa, Walmart Super-Tech, etc., etc. basically buy stock filters and put their colors and labels on them.

The Purolator engineer recommended not using their "Pure One" filter on motorcycles since they were more restrictive than the common filters available (going from memory here). This was because they advertised the "Pure One" as being able to filter out extremely small particles.

I found that the built-in bypass valve specs were very similar across the brands and models. This concerned me at first since the oil pressure necessary to activate it might result in a pressure drop to the engine. This turned out to be unfounded based on my conversations with the engineer and my exhaustive oil pressure tests.

This probably doesn't answer your questions but I have a VERY comprehensive Spin-On Oil Filter Reference list that goes into pretty good detail on the landscape of spin-on filters at the time I wrote it back in 2006. It is a Word file so I cannot attach it here but would be glad to send it to you.

Dan

 

[Bud]

I did a tremendous amount of spin-on oil filter research when doing the engineering on the SPOOFAK for the ZG1000 Concours. I was able to connect with a design engineer at Purolator (who was a motorcyclist and owned a Kawasaki that could use the kit eventually).

He was the only person that was willing to open up a bit on filter design and functions. No other filter company was willing to share anything other than published specifications. I did find that there was a short list of actual manufacturers that marketed their filters under a variety of retailers. Mobil One, Napa, Walmart Super-Tech, etc., etc. basically buy stock filters and put their colors and labels on them.

The Purolator engineer recommended not using their "Pure One" filter on motorcycles since they were more restrictive than the common filters available (going from memory here). This was because they advertised the "Pure One" as being able to filter out extremely small particles.

I found that the built-in bypass valve specs were very similar across the brands and models. This concerned me at first since the oil pressure necessary to activate it might result in a pressure drop to the engine. This turned out to be unfounded based on my conversations with the engineer and my exhaustive oil pressure tests.

This probably doesn't answer your questions but I have a VERY comprehensive Spin-On Oil Filter Reference list that goes into pretty good detail on the landscape of spin-on filters at the time I wrote it back in 2006. It is a Word file so I cannot attach it here but would be glad to send it to you.

Dan

Couldn't you open the word file and then copy the text and paste it over here?

 

[bergmen]

Couldn't you open the word file and then copy the text and paste it over here?

Sure, I can do that, it is a bit lengthy but here goes:

Spin-On Oil Filter Reference List

For the Bergmen Engineering, Inc. Model 410-010

Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Kit

-Dan Bergmen, April 8, 2006​

There is literally a huge number of choices of filters that are compatible with The Bergmen Engineering, Inc. Model 410-010 Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Kit (more than 68 different filter part numbers made or marketed by at least 22 companies at last count).

Since the Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Kit was originally designed to replace an internal paper cartridge oil filter, there are obviously no spin-on oil filters that exist that are officially recommended, or approved, by any manufacturer or retailer for use with the Adaptor Kit. As a result of this situation, it is not possible for Bergmen Engineering, Inc. or Murphskits, LLC to recommend, specify or approve any given oil filter model, manufacturer or type for use in the Bergmen Engineering, Inc. Model 410-010 Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Kit.

There are, however, several motorcycles including 39 Honda models, 25 Kawasaki models, 19 Yamaha models as well as many other various motorcycle models that use the exact same filter type as this Adaptor Kit was designed to use. If the desire is to use only those filters that are designed for motorcycle use, there are several excellent choices in this category from either Honda, Kawasaki or Yamaha although they are rather expensive. There are also excellent motorcycle specific spin-on oil filters available from reputable companies such as K&N, AC Delco, Fram, AMSOIL, Purolator and several other companies. These oil filters are referred to as Motorcycle Specific Oil Filters (MC) in this reference list.

There are also dozens of oil filters in this series that are designed and intended for automotive use, some with engines up to 5.6 liters (2006 Infiniti QX56 5.6L V8 F/I) and some equipped with turbo-superchargers (1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L L4 F/I – Turbo). These oil filters are referred to as Automotive Specific Oil Filters (Auto) in this reference list. All oil filters designed for automotive use are tested to stringent SAE performance tests for oil flow rates, bypass valve function, maximum pressure and burst pressure thresholds as well as many other tests. Filters in this category are the filters used exclusively (and successfully) in all engineering tests performed by Bergmen Engineering, Inc. and the team of field test engineers during field operational trials prior to the production release of this Adaptor Kit. Some of the longer filters in this automotive category offer modern and advanced filter media and larger filter areas that are unavailable in motorcycle specific oil filters.

Note: The lists shown in (Table 1) and (Table 2) on the following pages are not recommendations as to which filter to use, they are intended only to provide information helpful in making confident choices. (Table 3) lists filters that are specifically not recommended for the reasons stated.

The following is a preliminary list of filters (Table 1) that have been purchased, inspected, measured and in some cases used by Bergmen Engineering, Inc.. These filters are functionally compatible with the Model 410-010 A or B Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor Kit.

Those filters with Overall Lengths in Bold are short enough to fit without modifying the belly pan of the Concours although some light contact may occur. The Longer filters will require modification of the belly pan. See Modification Drawing-Concours Belly Pan (PDF Document) on the Bergmen Engineering Web Page.

#​	Brand​	Part Number​	MC or Auto​	Overall Length​
01	Napa Gold	1356	Auto​	3.440​
02	Napa Gold	1365	Auto​	2.610​
03	Pennzoil	PZ-109	Auto​	3.500​
04	Fram	PH6017A	MC​	2.940​
05	Fram	PH7317	Auto​	3.500​
06	Fram	TG7317	Auto​	3.500​
07	AC Delco	PF1237	Auto​	2.560​
08	AC Delco	PF2057	Auto​	3.410​
09	K&N	HP-1010	Auto​	3.800​
10	Bosch	3300	Auto​	2.550​
11	Bosch	3323	Auto​	3.430​
12	Purolator Pure ONE	PL14610	Auto​	3.562​
13	Purolator	L14610	Auto​	3.562​
14	Purolator	L14612	Auto​	2.975​
15	Honda	15410-MCJ-003	MC​	2.600​
16	Kawasaki	160970002	MC​	2.600​
17	Kawasaki	160971072	MC​	2.600​
18	Champion	PH2867	Auto​	2.575​
19	Champion	PH2876	Auto​	3.410​
20	Mobile 1	M1-108	Auto​	2.575​
21	Mobile 1	M1-110	Auto​	3.410​
22			​	​
23			​	​
24			​	​
25			​	​

Table 1​

The following is a list of filters (Table 2) that I am in the process of purchasing to inspect and measure but by all accounts, are compatible with the Model 410-010 A or B Kit since they are in the same filter category as those filters in (Table 1) above.

Table 2

#​	Brand​	Part Number​	MC or Auto​	Overall Length​
01	K&N	KN-204	MC​	2.953​
02	Car Quest	85358	MC​	Short​
03	Car Quest	85356	Auto​	Long​
04	Car Quest Red	B4620	Auto​	Long​
04	Wix	51358	MC​	Short​
05	Wix	51356	Auto​	Long​
06	Wix	51365	Auto​	Long​
07	Purolator	ML16817	MC​	Short​
08	Purolator Pure ONE	PL14612	Auto​	Short​
09	AMSOIL	SMF 103	MC​	N/A​
10	Wal-Mart SuperTech	ST-6607	Auto​	Short​
11	Wal-Mart SuperTech	ST-7317	Auto​	Long​
12	Deutsch	D-370	Auto​	Long​
13	Motorcraft Long Life	FL-821	Auto​	Long​
14	Baldwin	B1400	Auto​	Short​
15	Baldwin	B1402	Auto​	Long​
16	Firestone	TF2876	Auto​	Short​
17	Hastings	LF113	Auto​	Short​
18	Hastings	LF240	Auto​	Long​
19	STP	S-02876	Auto​	Short​
20	Auto Pro	2356	Auto​	Long​
21	Autopride	CF240AP	Auto​	Long​
22	Casite	CF240	Auto​	Long​
23	Castrol	7317	Auto​	Long​
24	Defense Filters	D17317	Auto​	Long​
25	Federated Filters	LF240F	Auto​	Long​
26	Penske	7317	Auto​	Long​
27	Powerflo	SL14610	Auto​	Long​
28	Powerflo	SL14620	Auto​	Long​
29	Shell	SH48	Auto​	Long​
30	Shell	SH529	Auto​	Long​
31	Valvoline	V050	Auto​	Long​
32	Fram	XG7317	Auto​	Long​
33	Group 7	V4610	Auto​	Long​
34	Group 7	V4620	Auto​	Long​
35	Mighty	M4612	Auto​	Long​
36	Parts Plus	PH2867	Auto​	Long​
37	Pro Gauge	PGO-4620	Auto​	Long​
38	Pro Tec	163	Auto​	Long​
39	Promotive	PH4610	Auto​	Long​
40	Pronto	PO3593A	Auto​	Long​
41	Service Champ	OF-4622	Auto​	Long​
42	Warner	PH2867	Auto​	Long​

Table 2 (continued)​

The following is a list of filters (Table 3) that are specifically not recommended for the reasons stated.

#​	Brand​	Part Number​	MC or Auto​	Notes​
01	STP	SMO-17	MC​	1​
02	Fram	HM7317	Auto​	2​
03	Fram	DG7317	Auto​	2​
04			​	​
05			​	​

Table 3​

Notes:

1) This filter, while motorcycle specific is very unique amongst all of the filters in this category. It is made in South Africa and has no common elements to any of the other filters examined or measured. It is the shortest filter to date and has a bypass valve position that may interfere with the Mount of the Adaptor Kit creating potential oil flow issues.

2) These filters from Fram contain time-released agents that may not be healthy for motorcycle engines, one of them being PTFE (Teflon). I would avoid these filters for the Adaptor Kit.

Dan Bergmen
Bergmen Engineering, Inc.

 

[bergmen]

More data:

The standard SAE test for oil pressure drop across the filter element (clean oil, clean filter) is a maximum of 3 PSI. To my knowledge, this test is also performed on the stock filter element by those companies that make both spin-on filters and paper cartridge elements for the Concours (Napa, Purolator, Fram, etc.).

Filter areas do vary from one spin-on filter manufacturer to another. These are often difficult, if not impossible to obtain from the filter manufacturers. From my filter engineer source at Purolator, here are the filter areas for their products:

ML16812 (stock paper cartridge filter element): 112 sq. in. of media.

PL14612 (short series of spin-on oil filter): 101 sq.in. of media.

PL14610 (long series of spin-on oil filter): 130 sq.in. of media.

The bypass valve threshold is 8-14 PSI in the spin-on filter category the Adaptor kit is designed to use. This threshold would come into play when the filter media begins to clog to the point that flow through the filter is becoming compromised by excessive contamination due to an engine part self-destructing or neglect of regular oil changes resulting in super-contaminated oil. In reality, bypass valve operation rarely occurs in engines in good operational condition or with regular oil changes, it is there just as an emergency back-up system.

According to my engineering source at one of the major spin-on oil filter manufacturers, the filter areas provided in the short series of filters are more than adequate for an engine of the size of the Concours series. The spin-on filter made for the Honda GL-1800 Gold Wing is of the short variety. If you go to my web page and look in the links section, you will find references to the K&N KN-204 filter (short variety) if you look at the application list, you will see a number of vehicles with larger engines than the Kawasaki engines my filter adaptor kit will accommodate. http://www.bergmenengineering.com - www.bergmenengineering.com

I ran a test on the stock bypass valve (built into the filter bolt assembly) pressure threshold and the results were not encouraging. I used an air compressor with a manually adjustable pressure regulator and saw bypass beginning to occur at pressures below 2 PSI. I didn't like what I saw.

Oil temperature is definitely a component of the pressure drop across the filter and the role of the bypass valve during cold oil flow operations. The quote I have from the oil filter engineer I did most of my development consultation with is as follows:

Per SAE HS806 test: "clean filter" pressure drop is less than 3psid at 3 gallons per minute flow rate when using 30 weight oil at 180 degrees F oil temperature.

More on the subject (by Mike Guillory, engineer at Purolator):

The Bypass Valve

First you need to understand why the bypass valve is there. Under *ideal* conditions, the bypass valve will *never* open. Because, when it opens, the oil *by passes* the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in *real* operation, it opens often.

One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting, then the bypass closes. Blipping the throttle while warming up is a good way to get the valve to open and send unfiltered oil to the motor. A steady warm-up rpm is probably a lot better.

These are Mike's views but they coincide with other sources I have read on the same subject so I think they can be trusted.

I have literally dozens of technical documents on the SPOOFAK, many I generated myself and many from authoritative resources.

To prevent one's eyes from glazing over, I can provide these on request, just let me know.

Dan

 

[Bud]

Thanks for the information Dan!

 

[Strawboss]

Thanks Dan, yes it does answer my question. I also still have the printed list of filters you posted here from when I bought my SPOOFAK from you all those years ago, I still have the bike too. Glad to hear from you.

 

[deanbuffington909409]

Lot of great info here. I will make a copy of this and put in in my ZG 1000 file

Thank you so much. Mr. Dan

Dean

 

[cuda]

About 1970, at 17, I started working at a father-and-son gas/service station.

The son graduated from the GM school, and we always filled the filters. before install

 

[Strawboss]

Easy to do do on the C-10, not so easy on the C-14.

 

[horsenuts123]

Easy to do do on the C-10, not so easy on the C-14.

I was just thinking the same thing. Do you fill it and let it sit on the bench overnight, then just accept the mess you're going to make as you hurry up and spin it on?

 

[Strawboss]

You can't really do it on a a C-14 or anything else not vertical.

 

[2andblue]

You can't really do it on a a C-14 or anything else not vertical.

I pre-fill any machine I am working (including C-14).

For the horizontal filters (like the C14) you can easily get the filter 90% full without a huge mess or any at all really. Let the oil seep into the filter media while you’re draining and then you just need to be deliberate and prepared when spinning the filter on. (Don’t be so hasty that you cross-thread; a little oil landing on a rag is not a big deal right..)

Wayne, Carol & Blue

 

[horsenuts123]

I guess the C14 mounting is still better than my son's Subaru... He opened the hood and I just wondered what kind of idiot would mount a filter like that!

 

[fartymarty]

I've always wondered how much it would extend engine life of almost any ICE if there was an electric oil pump that came on maybe 10 seconds before the engine start of a cold engine and shut off 10-60 seconds after it started depending on temperature/pressure. Probably a system that is or has been used already somewhere (aircraft ICE?, race cars? submarine diesels?)

 

[ron203]

I've always wondered how much it would extend engine life of almost any ICE if there was an electric oil pump that came on maybe 10 seconds before the engine start of a cold engine and shut off 10-60 seconds after it started depending on temperature/pressure. Probably a system that is or has been used already somewhere (aircraft ICE?, race cars? submarine diesels?)

Wired in with the fuel pump priming with a timer?

 

[cuda]

This is off subject, but if you run a Turbo vehicle hard, don't shut it off immediately.

Just 30 seconds will save you a turbo. $$

My guys just got done chipping a lot of logs, loading the chipper with a loader,

The guy said it was running great, but he noticed the turbo was glowing red when he shut it off, ... toast.

I ran a 35,000 lb dump truck full of rock 45 miles down the interstate, stopped to pee, turbo toasted.

Those bearings get super hot and without oil flow, toasted

 

[cuda]

I run the K & P engineering reusable billet oil filters on all my bikes. It is aircraft certified and flows considerably better than any paper filter. Never an issue with any of them. They are not cheap thou.

That's interesting because Toyota likes cartridges. Less garbage.

 

[connie_rider]

I've always wondered how much it would extend engine life of almost any ICE if there was an electric oil pump that came on maybe 10 seconds before the engine start of a cold engine and shut off 10-60 seconds after it started depending on temperature/pressure. Probably a system that is or has been used already somewhere (aircraft ICE?, race cars? submarine diesels?)

It used to be done. Can't find one right now, but the method was easier than a pause before starting.
(and it was automatic)
The method; An accumulator was tied into the oil system.
** The accumulator stored a bit of oil under pressure (quantity unknown) and released it the next time the engine is started.
ie; While the engine is running, oil is pushed into a chamber in the accumulator.
As it fills the chamber a spring (or air) is compressed.
When the engine is turned off, an electric valve closes and stores the oil in the accumulator "under pressure".
The next time the engine is started, the valve opens, and that bit of oil is pushed thru the system to lubricate the bearing surfaces.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[cuda]

Did You say

Rotella T6

Just use synthetics

Maybe something that sits for an extended period of time, would benefit. Pull the coil wire and crank...

I've been a long-time user of Lucas products. in the old days STP

Does it really help? Ten knows, I don't

some stickie chit

 

[SethInIllinois]

It used to be done. Can't find one right now, but the method was easier than a pause before starting.
(and it was automatic)
The method; An accumulator was tied into the oil system.
** The accumulator stored a bit of oil under pressure (quantity unknown) and released it the next time the engine is started.
ie; While the engine is running, oil is pushed into a chamber in the accumulator.
As it fills the chamber a spring (or air) is compressed.
When the engine is turned off, an electric valve closes and stores the oil in the accumulator "under pressure".
The next time the engine is started, the valve opens, and that bit of oil is pushed thru the system to lubricate the bearing surfaces.

Ride safe, Ted

I remember at least one electric pump version of these on the market 25 or 30 years ago. I believe it was targeted to diesel cars/trucks, but would have worked similarly in many applications.

It's a good idea, but I'm skeptical of the benefit. Sure, you do have the advantage of starting off with oil pressure, but all the other cold-engine issues are still the same (clearances at cold values, rather than warm, no oil splash on the cylinder walls, etc). I feel like if it was a worthwhile benefit, it would be in use in commercial or industrial applications (maybe standby generators, irrigation pumps, logistics yard tractors, that kind of thing).