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Oil leak behind water pump??

D

danhatt

Tricycle
My 98 Concours recently developed an oil leak. Or hemorrhage, after sitting for a week or so. I've finally been able to determine that the leak is coming from behind the water pump. Any idea what it may be? Something that is very easily fixed? (As I get older I've become more and more mechanically declined.) Something for the shop to do? Sell the bike because it will cost more than the bike is worth? BTW, riding the Connie is my only stress reducer recently and likely into the future. Any help is greatly appreciated. DAN
 
Oil leaks not too bad to fix. It's harder to get access and get it all apart then to fix the actual problem. Once you pull the water pump you'll see the o-ring that needs to be replaced. Need to drain the coolant and oil. Roger ('07 Wee Strom) COG 5903 Virginia Beach, VA
 
This is a very easy fix. Here's a link to the parts fiche: http://tinyurl.com/cazxq9 Here's a link to the Tech side of things: http://www.ldrider.ca/techpages/waterpumpseal.htm AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)
 
I found it just a bit of a PITA to get things back together. The FIRST time I reassembled things, I had pinched my new O-ring. Be very careful making sure that it's securely in place and doesn't slip before you tighten the housing.
 
This is one of the common leaky seals. The others being the shifter shaft seal and clutch rod seal. While the culprit may be the simple 92055C o-ring, as pointed out, getting to it is a bit of a PITA. When it was time to replace the o-ring on my 98 I found that the water pump bearings were on the way out. I opted to replace the entire water pump at that time so I would not have to dig into there again in the near future. -- Steve Smith, COG #3184 COG Northeast Area Director (somewhere in south central CT)
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If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
 
Talk about a case of information overload. After reading (and looking at the pictures), I think I have it. I remove the shift pedal, the clutch slave cylinder, then the water pump. The O ring goes on the water pump. Check water pump to make sure it does not need to replaced. Reassemble in reverse order, test. Take wife to expensive dinner. ;)
 
This is getting to be a major stress maker. The large bolt on the gear change mechanism (part #92002-1816) will not budge. I've tried an impact driver, but nothing. Any suggestions? I am afraid of breaking the bolt or ??? Thanks. DAN
 
It can be a bit tight, however its a large thread and head (17mm if I recall correctly) As long as you use an 8 point socket and a long breaker bar it will come undone. I find a 24" to 30" long 1/2" breaker bar is a great tool for such things. Just use with care. Couple that with a good set of impact sockets it will make short work of most bolts and lessons the likelihood of bloody knuckles Colin Prior COG Webmaster Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764 ROK#20000617
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How many miles are on the bike? You didn't mention this in any of your postings. I had to replace mine at 110k miles.
 
Bigger hammer solution worked. Six sided socket and 24 inch breaker bar took care of that. Now the next "issue". The exhaust is a bit to high to let the water pump slide out. Looks likes it will need to be dropped about 1/4". Any suggestions? Thanks. PS It has about 45000 miles on it. Sooooo....
 
I just took mine out, enough fiddling around playing with angles and it comes out. I totally dismantled the water pump, removed the outer bearing and drove the shaft out of the housing, reasembeled, now seems to turn easier. don't know that I avoided a pump replacement for $175, but so far so good. I also replaced the seal for the cltuch rod, very easy, as long as you are in there. Any one have any experiance with the shifter shaft seal and what invovled?
 
Dan; You don't usually need to move the exhaust. As long as you remove BOTH hoses it will slip out with a slight twist and a jiggle. Glad the 6 point and breaker bar worked. Colin Prior COG IT Director Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764 ROK#20000617
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It seems to be more of a weld issue rather than just the exhaust. I did remove both the hoses thinking I would be able to wiggle the water pump out.
 
The water pump is only held in with 2 8mm (Head) bolts that hold the Shift Peddle bracket. Once the bracket is removed it will come out, there is a o-ring on the water-pump that will make it a little stiff but it will come out, with a strong pair of hands. You can probably get a lever behind it, but if you do be VERY careful not to crack the casings. It will twist a little and that may help free it up. Good luck. Colin Prior COG IT Director Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764 ROK#20000617
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Got the water pump out. Everything looks good on the pump. I notice using Loctite Red is recommended. I can not locate any Loctite aound here (a 5 mile radius). So I need the Loctite? Which one? Any subsitutes? Thanks. DAN
 
I used red Loctite, but I guess that gasket RTV would work too. It's just keeping the oil seal seated into the pump housing. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/loc37469.html Auto parts stores pretty much always have red Loctite. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LCT-37421/?image=large
 
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