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Optimum RPM

Tom NWGA

Tom NWGA

Member
Member
I got my 1999 Connie after riding a cruiser that hit the rev limiter a little over 5K. As you know, the Connie goes to twice that before redlining. I find myself riding all day at RPM of 4500 or less in all six speeds. Yet the alternator is rated for maximum output at 6000, leading me to believe that I would have considerably less output at my normal running RPM for operating heated clothing, GPS, running lights and so forth. What amperage should I calculate as the running total at 3500-4000 RPM? Or, should I be running the Connie at a higher general RPM, say 5-6000? COG #8892 CDA #0309 So glad this Vol can tour!
 
From my experience with my 2000 Concours equipped with a Charge-a-lert, it produces adequate electrical power to operate my electric vest, electric gloves, GPS, and auxilary lights so long as the RPMs exceed 2500. At idle (1100-1200 rpm in my case) it shows an undercharge. YMMV. I would suggest installation of some kind of voltage monitoring system. They are relatively inexpensive and installation is quite simple.
 
The Conc becomes a hole nuther animal > ~5k rpm. It's addicting - you've been warned! My voltmeter shows low 14s above ~2k like Jim's. 01 Conc, Mijami Floriduh OTP 06: http://tinyurl.com/2vk9o2 route map: http://tinyurl.com/4p7pmd
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On the Ninja 250 Riders Club, they have sent an alternator out for testing. Its a bit smaller than the Connies, yes. The interesting part is that is almost full power by about 2500 rpms. From 2500 to 6000 rpms its only a few more amps. 6A @ 1000 11A @ 1400 13A @ 2500 15A @ 6000 Assuming a similar curve applies to the Connie its no wonder many of us experience lack of charging and low voltage at idle with some extra load. I generally find that by 1500 rpms its doing ok for heated vest and gloves too. And as mentioned by 2500 keeps up with most everyone needs. Manual says 28.6a at 14.0 volts at 6000 rpms. 28.6 * 14.0 = 400.4 for the 400 watts everyone rates the Connie as. Lets assume were getting 25a by 2500 rpms 25 * 14.0 = 350 watts practical limit for most purposes. Many people run aux grips, gloves, vests etc and ride around with no issues. I believe in many cases the voltage at idle at a stop sign with the brakes on, etc will drop such that the alternator is not keeping up and the battery makes up the difference. Then as you ride off it charges back up again. -- IS this bad? Well I guess it depends on the condition of your battery. I rode like this running 110w Hella FF50's on all the time as Daytime Running Lights. I did this for about 1.5 years. Did it ever leave me stranded or unable to start. NO. So yes I can claim no issues. But thats not the whole story. After the first 6mo I found my stock 4 year old maintenance required battery with less than 25% fluid in it. Turns out I was lucky I found it when I did and was probably not too far from being stranded. Then with the Oddessey PC680 battery it a year later and no issue running this way. That battery is still in there now. Short version is as mentioned get a volt meter or monitoring device of some kind. Pay attention at idle to your consumption and voltage level. Otherwise you should be ok, unless your running 110w driving lights, 2 vests, gloves, LED rurnning lights, electronics, grip heaters, the high beam is on, 80/100 watt headlight, etc. 2003 Concours, 57K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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In terms of optimum engine RPM this will vary depending on rider preferenes. I generally downshift at 3000 and not let it fall below that. And upshift by 4000 and 4500. This would be typical daily commute. I can ride all the way to work and back between 3000-4500 rpms and the bike is plenty happy. 2 up add 1000 rpms. 3500-5500 for most duties. Passing and brisk accelation can run to 7500 and more. I rarely redline it. I am not sure when the bike last saw redline. Could be years. But that is my riding style. I am sure there are some where the bike see's redline daily. 2003 Concours, 57K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Not sure how much value I can add to this post, but here goes anyway. I dyno'd my C-10 years ago and learned that there's a bit of a flat spot in the power curve between 5000-6000rpm. Presumably engineered for compliance with 1980s noise regs (drive by at 5k would be quieter?), the ramp up at 6000rpm provides a satisfying kick in the pants that continues to infinity and beyond. Well, between 6k and 9k anyway. The trouble with loads of power at above 6k is that it costs more in fuel consumption, if that's an issue. And in 6th gear 6k is 100mph as near as makes no difference. As for the alternator output, my $0.02 is to keep the revs above about 2500 (per Slybones' post) and not worry about it.
 
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