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Petcock "Prime" position question.

dhomas19909939

Guest
Guest
I have a general idea of what the "prime" position does on my petcock. Question is should I use it when I start my bike every morning? I run her almost every day (she's my Commuter). On average takes full choke and maybe 10sec of the starter getting it's morning workout then she fires. Mind you its winter so its in the 30s just about every morning. Question 2 if so what's the correct way to utilize said "prime "position. Start in prime then crank and once started switch back to "on"?
 
Have you done the ground mod with the blk & yellow wire under your seat from the rectifier. It amazed me how easier my bike started after that mod. Of course it has not got below 30 degrees and stays about 65 normally lately in Alabama.
I have never used my prime setting unless I let it sit for more than a week. It starts rt up And idles perfect always.
If I do use the prime setting because it has sat for a while. I will put it on prime and count to 20 normally then turn it back to the on position and it cranks fine. This has always worked for me. Fills the carbs by doing that and cranks rt up. I personally would not leave it on prime any longer than that.
But hopefully someone will chime in and give us their opinion.

Dean
 
Yes actually the ground mod has already been done by a previous owner. Maybe I'll experiment tomorrow morning and give it 10 seconds of prime before switching to On and starting. Maybe that will get her to start up quicker.
 
I've never used the prime position. If it's been sitting for a few weeks I just spin it for about 2 seconds to get vacuum to the petcock and get gas flowing. Then I wait for about 5 seconds then start. After a 10-20 seconds I have to back off the enrichener as it's already too rich - even in the 20s. If it's only been sitting a day, it will fire almost at the touch of the starter.

Sounds like yours is running lean for some reason if it's that hard to get going. Other things that have the same effect is tight valves and out of balance carbs.
 
Thanks for the info yep Ive been putting off checking the valves. maybe I'll check those soon. Also I've always just assumed I needed full choke maybe like half choke is the trick.
 
When I crank mine I use the full choke. But pull it back quickly to slow the rpm's down.
One thing I have learned about the Concours. Not all of them crank the same. You half to figure out what works best for you. I can tell you this for sure. I was grinding on the starter until I did SISF ground mod. It made all the difference in the world on my bike. It starts perfect every time after that mod was done.

Dean
 
Even after setting a couple of months, I don't use prime. Crack for 10 sec turn off key for 20 sec (turns off the headlight). Repeat until she starts. It might take 3 or 4 tries after sitting for the winter. If the battery can't take it, might be time for a new battery.

First start of the day with enrichment on after that it's not needed. Reduce as the rpm climb. I try to keep it near 2000 rpm until warmed up.

I don't like prime as it takes fuel from the very bottom of the tank. That is where any water or debris will settle to. I hope that the vibration from running will mix any water into the whole tank and not go to the carbs all at once.
 
I use prime for a few seconds just to get the bowls filled then back to on , pull the enrichener lever and she fires right up . Unless its really cold I normally flip the enrichener off slowly shortly after . It will start fine without using prime but takes a little more starter .
 
pour évacuer l'eau du réservoir il faut verser un peu d'alcool isopropylique, 0,5 litre pour 20 litres, l'alcool permet à l'eau de se mélanger à l'essence ;)
 
Shouldn't need prime every day. 10 seconds of cranking is a long time.

A Connie in good tick should start instantly.
The 10 sec of cranking is only after it has set for the winter. The carb bowl will be empty and I don't use prime before I try to start. The longer cranking time has the extra benefit of getting oil pressure up to where the oil light goes out before it ever fires. No running without oil pressure.

She will start almost instantly after the first run of the season.
 
The 10 sec of cranking is only after it has set for the winter. The carb bowl will be empty and I don't use prime before I try to start. The longer cranking time has the extra benefit of getting oil pressure up to where the oil light goes out before it ever fires. No running without oil pressure.

She will start almost instantly after the first run of the season.
That sounds about right after storing / layup.

I was referring to the original poster who said 10 seconds of cranking every morning was needed.
 
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