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Removing Smog Plates

S

slybonesjesse

Sport Tourer
What do you block the hole in the airbox with, when removing the smog stuff and replacing with the covers. I got the vacuum line for the carbs. What about the hole in the airbox. That needs plugged. 2003 Concours, 61K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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This is relevant to my interests. I saw some mention of this in the threads about stick coils, and I'm curious what the benefits are (and also what needs to be done) As far as the hole in the airbox goes, if I was to try it I'd probably pick up a rubber stopper to plug it with, maybe coat it with RTV for a complete seal... but I'm sure someone who's actually done this mod has a better idea :8|:
 
Well I went out to the garage this evening to perform this task and now its all #$%^ed up. 1. The plates I order from ebay are not worth a crap. Poorly made. I got them from the same place as mention on a thread in concours.org where purchaser seemed to be pleased with them. 2. Next I notice the reed valve block that sits down in the valve cover actually sticks up a bit. When the plates are installed and screwed down, they sit against the assy and not flush against the valve cover. Looks like the caps for the smog assy fit nicely over that. 3. Looking at the fiche on Ron Ayers site it does not show any kind of gasket underneath the reed valve assy. Maybe its part of the assy but there is a thick cork gasket under there that tore all to sh*t when I tried to remove on the the reed valve assys. So now what. A. Who makes some good plates that actually friggin right? B. If I remove all that gasket crap and clean it all up, can I put the reed valve assy back in there with no gasket under there. This would probably lower it in the valve cover and make the plates fit flush against the valve cover. C. Other ideas and inputs. 2003 Concours, 61K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Do you need some reliefs cut into the covers to clear the reed valve junk? I know a guy who is a machinist.......
 
just leave the original plates on, and block the nipples with some 5/8" heater core block off caps, available at any good auto store. I stick one into the airbox also, problems all solved. Steve
 
Find snarf over on the other forum. He's machining them out of what looks to be .120 aluminum. I just powdercoated more than a dozen sets for him, so I know he's got them available. As for the holes, pull out the reed valves (hey, that's what they look like) and drill/tap for 3/8" or the metric equivalent. Screw in a few bolts or set screws covered in high temp rtv, tighten them up and put snarf's caps on. That and the stick coils, I can stick my hand the entire way across the valve cover and scratch my other leg ;) http://www.millerized.com I'll be in the garage
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COG 6425, CDA 111 a through g
 
Steve I guess that would work. One of my goals was the clean look and room for the stick coils to face towards the rear. 2003 Concours, 61K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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So one question since I didn't see these on the fiche on Ron Ayers was did everyone else have some kind of thick cork gasket under the reed valves? I am thinking I just might have to do the drill/tap idea now. Or Steve's idea. And have the stick coils facing forward. But still wondering if I was to just cleanup the old gasket crap from under there and reinstall the reed valve assy with no cork under there. Maybe high temp RTV these in there. Its gonna get blocked off anyways. 2003 Concours, 61K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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I pulled my reed valves off earlier out of curiosity, they had the same cork gaskets underneath (though they got pretty torn up in the process) Since I'm not going to mess with the smog stuff until I've got everything else up and running, I'll just get a cork gasket sheet from the hardware store and cut new ones from it. I'd be surprised if RTV couldn't make a good substitute, though, at least if you're just blocking the reed valves anyway.
 
Well its good to know they are all this way. The one I remove got torn up a bit too. I think to get back running again and not have to wait I will try Steve's idea with the 5/8" heater core block off caps. This means tomorrow I can get the valves done, and get everything reinstalled. I will do the stick coils facing forward if needed. This gets me back on the road right away. I can purchase some plates from snarf and drill/tap on the next valve adjust. Does seem interesting that I have not read about others observing the height of the reed valve assy being tall enough to prevent the block off plates from sealing against the valve cover. I guess as long as the cork gasket seals the reed valve assy down below, and the plates seal across the top it might be ok. I was just thinking that they would not be that tall and the plates would fit down flush. 2003 Concours, 61K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Nice weather today. Too bad work has to get in the way. 1. Got some good block off plates coming from snarf. 2. Got the valves checked. 5K since I did them. I couldn't wait 1K more to tear into the projects. Besides I have been doing 12K intervals anyways. Why you ask. Many find that after the first 4-5 adjustments they dont change much any more. I started 5K ago with what I believe was .006in and .008ex on all cylinders. This morning .005, .006, .005, .006 and .007, .008, .008, .007. I did not bother. I will run them 7K more and do another check the normal 12K interval. 3. Got the intake cam sprocket rotated back to the round counter sink hole. This is from the square counter sink hole. This was a mod that many tried back a while ago. But in end now-a-days Steve does not recommend this anymore. It just takes away from the bottom end we are all trying to improve. So that is back to stock. Note here is that I have the exhaust sprocket and if you want to go more, order his new cams. Not sure if those are out yet. But I have heard about them. 4. Got the reed valves removed and cleaned up all the torn up gasket. 5. Drill and Tap for 3/8 as mentioned by millerized. I figured I might as well while its apart. I can assemble with the FU'd caps I ordered from ebay for the moment and switch to snarfs when they get here. And I probably wont have to do much more than remove the tank. 3/8" is a friggin big screw. Dang. Still fits under the cover though. Just barely but it fits and clears so the caps sit flush against the valve cover. Well thats it for today. Tomorrow is Compression Check and assemble with the stick coils. Test Ride. 2003 Concours, 61K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Drilling and tapping those hole seemed like a lot of work to me. Very sorry about the late post.  Here is what i did.  I removed my reed valve assembly. Once in hand flip it over and you will see two (2) 'J' plates that are attached by four (4) phillips head screws. (two screws each plate)  Remove the J plates and flip them over (so that the J faces up)  you will also need to swap them from left to right. Re-attach them to the plate an install. Done..ezpz  Side note...I also removed the gasket material and used a very small bead of high temp RTV.  The phillips screws do protrude from the plates slightly; hit them with a file and every thing will sit flush and pretty.  I apologize for not having any picture.  Once you have the reed valves in your hand you will understand exactly what i am describing. I have more block-off plates if anyone is interestedforum.concours.org/index.php?topic=72511.0    I have black and plain available.  I also have some very nice limited edition plates that Jim Miller powder coated for me.  They will be available at the rally    Contact me lilliefabrication at gmail dot com
 
snarf, to answer your question in the other thead, yes the crapy ones are a different set. Needed to take off for a ride to come and see the new grandson born on the 3rd. Your plates didnt make before I left. Currently running with no plates. Just the screws in the holes after the drill and tap with no cover. -- I am sure your set are sitting at home waiting. Will install and take some pics this weekend. For me the drill and tap was not that much work. Went pretty smooth. Having done it I think 3/8" does not leave that much meat on the ports once your done. I wonder if they are kinda thin now. Cleaning up the gasket material and using high temp RTV with the springs turned over is probably a better approach. All of them are reversable. But that approach leaves the valve cover stock, unmodified. 2003 Concours, 62K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Slybones- What do you mean that leaves the valve covers stock and unmodified? Once you put the reed assembly back in the block-off plates will set perfectly flush on the valve cover.
 
Once you put the reed assembly back in the block-off plates will set perfectly flush on the valve cover.
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Agreed. But how is that "modifying" the valve cover. I guess I don't see where the valve cover gets modified. Now drilling and tapping holes in the ports. That is modifying the valve cover. 2003 Concours, 62K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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Not sure that I am following you? There is no reason to modify the valve cover. By turning the J clips over they hold the reed valves shut. They cant leak when doing it this way. The mod happens with the block-off plate, not the valve cover. We might be saying the same thing; I'm just a little slow sometimes :)
 
Snarf and Sly, If you block off these vents, what happens to the excess oil that I install during an oil change due to a senior moment. In other words, the vent is there to recycle plow-by and carbon emissions from the crank case. Is removing them a good idea? What does it accomplish besides "cleaning up" the valve cover and making it easier to R&R? "If it hasn't killed me yet, it's runnin out of time" COG # 8062 AMA # 1084053 ROMA or Scarlet harlot acording to my wife
 
snarf, there are two approaches dicussed in this thread. One originally mentioned by millerized and the approach I took. The other approach is the one you mentioned. One of these approaches permamently modifies the valve cover by drilling and tapping ports in the valve cover. The other approach does not modify the valve cover, the valve cover is left stock. All I was trying to say was that after having done the drilling and tapping approach, I wonder if the ports that were drilled and tapped are too thin. And that in hind sight I like the other approach because the valve cover is not modified. 2003 Concours, 62K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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In other words, the vent is there to recycle plow-by and carbon emissions from the crank case. Is removing them a good idea?
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I dont believe the system is for recycle blow-by. My understanding from reading other threads is the purpose of the system is to allow fresh air into the exhaust to help burn unburnt hydrocarbons. This happens on decel when the carbs make vacuum. The vacuum created in the carbs opens the vacuum switch allowing fresh air to flow from the intake to the exhaust. The reed valves make sure air flow in one direction.
What does it accomplish besides "cleaning up" the valve cover and making it easier to R&R?
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That is the purpose. And if you install stick coils it allows them to face towards the rear, which makes the install for them look nice and clean too. 2003 Concours, 62K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://home.comcast.net/~slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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  Snarf and Sly, If you block off these vents, what happens to the excess oil that I install during an oil change due to a senior moment. In other words, the vent is there to recycle plow-by and carbon emissions from the crank case.  Is removing them a good idea?  What does it accomplish besides "cleaning up" the valve cover and making it easier to R&R? 
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  Sly is correct; this is not the PCV.  That is above the Transmission. If you pull your airbox you will see it.  The only benefit of this is to clean up the valve cover.  The real bonus come from putting in T-Cro's stick coils. Mr Miller was nice enough to color the PVC Kawa Green so the lucky winner could find it easier.  Very sorry about the size of the picture.  I'm not very familiar with posting pics on this site
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