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Slide needles

M

Motorcyclerider

Member
Member
Has anyone tried different slide needles? I’ve got Factory pro Needles I was going to try. I’ve also got a 94 cbr 1000f I could try to use. I heard that people have used cb900 needles with good results.
 
I've tried different needles and they did help.
The issue is the stock C-10 needle is built much like a nail. (very little taper)
So, adding a needle with a long taper will richen everything because {on many needles with a long taper} the tapered section diameter is small.
ie; if you go to a longer taper you will get smoother transition, but you will probably need to lower the needle to prevent over richening.
 
Last edited:
connie_rider said:
I've tried different needles and they did help.
The issue is the stock C-10 needle is built much like a nail. (very little taper)
So, adding a needle with a long taper will richen everything because {on many needles with a long taper} the tapered section diameter is small.
ie; if you go to a longer taper you will get smoother transition, but you will probably need to lower the needle to prevent over richening.
Click to expand...
The needles that were in mine came to a sharp taper fast and got very thin at the bottom. Factory pro sent me ones that were much straighter. Like you describe. Very similar to the gpz1100 needles. I like the factory pro better. I found out why I was looking for more power though. I bought an adjustable cam gear set and a degree wheel to advance the exhaust 7 degrees. When I got in there someone had messed with it and the timing wasn’t right. It threw me for a loop to because when you have all the timing marks set in place you can adjust the valve clearance on cylinder 1. Only on cylinder 4. I kept thinking the cams were out of place with the marks set. Then I realized that’s not the position to adjust the valves just to set the timing. I got it set right. Reinstalled the top guide and tensioner then took the bolts out for the exhaust cam locked the cam in place. I put the degree wheel on the Allen bolted into the crank(fit perfectly) and made a little mark on the engine and set it to zero I rotated the crank clockwise 14 degrees I then took back out the top guide and tensioner and installed the adjustable cam gear. It was cool because it was sort of a press fit so no need to worry about it slipping. Applied red lock tite where needed and put it all together. What a huge difference. Bike runs better, cooler, sounds better, better mileage, needs less choke and pulls like a freight train. I’m still going to try the gpz 36mm carbs and put the zx intake cam but leave the stock exhaust cam set how it is. Idk why I get so much out of tuning and riding this thing. Been going back and forth to work here 40 minutes each way in New York for the past few weeks in 30 degree weather😂892E2F31-E3F4-418B-816C-099A9FF6D26C.jpeg
 
I put the degree wheel on the Allen bolted into the crank(fit perfectly) and made a little mark on the engine and set it to zero I rotated the crank clockwise 14 degrees I then took back out the top guide and tensioner and installed the adjustable cam gear
I'm not familiar with doing something like this. So excuse my ignorance.
It seems to me that if you advance the crank 14* and then install the ex cam (at it's zero) , the Ex Cam would be "retarded" 7* (??).

ie; If you set the crank at 14* before TDC and install the Ex-cam (at it's zero). The Ex cam would be "advanced" 7*.
 
connie_rider said:
I put the degree wheel on the Allen bolted into the crank(fit perfectly) and made a little mark on the engine and set it to zero I rotated the crank clockwise 14 degrees I then took back out the top guide and tensioner and installed the adjustable cam gear
I'm not familiar with doing something like this. So excuse my ignorance.
It seems to me that if you advance the crank 14* and then install the ex cam (at it's zero) , the Ex Cam would be "retarded" 7* (??).

ie; If you set the crank at 14* before TDC and install the Ex-cam (at it's zero). The Ex cam would be "advanced" 7*.
Click to expand...
So I set it to its proper timing marks. Locked the cam in place. Removed the bolts Rotated the engine 14 degrees clockwise. Had I spun it counter clockwise in the direction the engine spins I would have retarded it. So exhaust cam stayed stationary. Left it at 14 degree. Removed the exhaust cam gear and installed the adjustable on. It has the elongated holes so as long as the teeth lined up into the chain and I had room for bolts I could reinstall it and tighten it down. Reinstalled the tensioner and guide. Then I rotated it around twice back to the timing marks on the plate and intake cam which lined up again. Make sense? Idk it runs way better. The exhaust cam is spun 7 degrees counter clockwise which would be advanced. I think I did it right. Runs a heck of a lot better🤷‍♂️
 
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