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swingarm maintenance help
- Thread starter Tom NWGA
- Start date
Tom, it's really not bad. The worst part I thought was getting the front spline joint back together. That and getting the blasted boot back on! Be sure and keep the lock pin for the front joint under control when removing it. It will fly, fly away! Once I get the wheel off, I usually finish the swingarm maintenance in about two hours if all goes well. Do yourself a favor and get some Moly 60 paste from Honda for the splines. It's kind of pricey but the tube will last a good long while. Good luck.
Eddie
Eddie
Am taking my very sweet time going through the process. Have pulled everything save the swingarm itself off the rear end. My thoughts thus far:
1. There's a LOT of bolts in my storage bin which I use to help me keep track and make sure everything goes back where it came from.
2. I am more than a little nervous about re-mounting the shock and swingarm - those items are HEAVY
3. Before doing this again I'm gonna own a lift!! And I better begin now with getting the SO on board, if my recent episode with the purchase of heated gear is any indication. Yeah, that one left a mark...
1. There's a LOT of bolts in my storage bin which I use to help me keep track and make sure everything goes back where it came from.
2. I am more than a little nervous about re-mounting the shock and swingarm - those items are HEAVY
3. Before doing this again I'm gonna own a lift!! And I better begin now with getting the SO on board, if my recent episode with the purchase of heated gear is any indication. Yeah, that one left a mark...
Moving right along...
Swingarm came off, got lubed, and reinstalled without nary a hitch. Piece of cake (having a floor jack handy sure helped!). Will need to purchase a 6 mm hex socket, however, to get the torque right. Shock went back on, air filter is renewed, rocker arm is installed and its needle bearings are lubed, air pressures have been readjusted.
Yet to be done are: installation of rear tire, attachment of rear brake, installation of gearcase, installation of mufflers, syncing of carbs, checking and tightening of bolts, install of gas tank and side panels.
Found what seemed to me to be lots of crud in old fuel filter which is being replaced. Do I need to attempt (again) to rustproof and seal the tank? Or is this normal?
Swingarm came off, got lubed, and reinstalled without nary a hitch. Piece of cake (having a floor jack handy sure helped!). Will need to purchase a 6 mm hex socket, however, to get the torque right. Shock went back on, air filter is renewed, rocker arm is installed and its needle bearings are lubed, air pressures have been readjusted.
Yet to be done are: installation of rear tire, attachment of rear brake, installation of gearcase, installation of mufflers, syncing of carbs, checking and tightening of bolts, install of gas tank and side panels.
Found what seemed to me to be lots of crud in old fuel filter which is being replaced. Do I need to attempt (again) to rustproof and seal the tank? Or is this normal?
willyp
Iron Butt
Well, that is what the fuel filter is for, to catch the crud. The question is whether the crud is from the tank lining failing or from the fuel being put in the tank. Quite a bit of crud can come from the pump, but if your tank rustproofing is failing, you'll want to jump on that right away. A visual inspection of the tank is the only way to know for sure.
Folks, it is done. My first 6K full-on maintenance. Took LOTS of time, in hopes of getting it right and being able to remember most of it next time. Two indicators of success: 1) No left over parts, and 2) It RUNS. Am full on amazed that I was able to do this. When last completed by the local dealer just after I bought it, I paid $150 in labor plus $52 in parts. This time, it was $59 in parts plus one or two tools from Sears for around $50 (darn it - more tools 
). The sense of accomplishment is priceless.
Thank you to all those that provided help along the way, in this and other threads.
Quote from: WillyP on Yesterday at 08:50:04 AM
Well, that is what the fuel filter is for, to catch the crud. The question is whether the crud is from the tank lining failing or from the fuel being put in the tank. Quite a bit of crud can come from the pump, but if your tank rustproofing is failing, you'll want to jump on that right away. A visual inspection of the tank is the only way to know for sure.
Filter was full of floating crud. When it dried, it looked like flakes of coppery-colored and shiny varnish. Not what I think rust looks like. Will check tank in near future, though (after I run the current tank dry ).
It's a 1999 Connie with 34K. Last full service was 21K, just after I bought it in October 2009. Lube was still present, though a bit diluted, probably because I liberally applied WD-40 to clean everything as I was preparing to take parts apart. The irony of it is that the bike is now much cleaner than my hands...
). The sense of accomplishment is priceless. Thank you to all those that provided help along the way, in this and other threads.
Quote from: WillyP on Yesterday at 08:50:04 AM
Well, that is what the fuel filter is for, to catch the crud. The question is whether the crud is from the tank lining failing or from the fuel being put in the tank. Quite a bit of crud can come from the pump, but if your tank rustproofing is failing, you'll want to jump on that right away. A visual inspection of the tank is the only way to know for sure.
Filter was full of floating crud. When it dried, it looked like flakes of coppery-colored and shiny varnish. Not what I think rust looks like. Will check tank in near future, though (after I run the current tank dry ).
conando said:
It's a 1999 Connie with 34K. Last full service was 21K, just after I bought it in October 2009. Lube was still present, though a bit diluted, probably because I liberally applied WD-40 to clean everything as I was preparing to take parts apart. The irony of it is that the bike is now much cleaner than my hands...