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Turn Signal flasher

hammerash

Member
Member
So I am installing LED turn signals and need a new electronic flasher. But most are 2 wire and Connie uses 3. I see that 2 wire can work, although won't plug right in. I have connectors and could take pins out of 2 wire connector and put in 3 wire connector. I am guessing, based on wiring diagram, red from flasher goes orange/green wire and black from flasher goes to orange. Black/yellow from bike doesn't connect to anything.

But what if anything will function differently? I have read something about 4 way hazards? Something about " beeping" sound when flashers are on? But just not sure. I did find one 3 wire on amazon, but a review said some issues? Could have been a bad one I guess.
 
If you can't come up with the proper relay load resistors will work.. Available from just about all over the web from various sources. Do a search.
 

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Have you tried the LED bulbs yet? There was a thread a couple years ago about suggested LED headlights, running lights & turn signal bulbs. I put whatever the recommended Amazon LED bulbs are in & didn’t change the flasher on either of my 08 C14s, blinker’s & hazards worked fine.
Seems like the dash indicator glows dimly in between flashes but the exterior signals operated fine.
 
I don't want to put resistors in cause that defeats one of reasons for using LED-less current. I am adding driving lights, heated gear, GPS, LED on topcase and sidecase, phone charger, etc. So want to decrease current draw for all these things and anything that may come later on. Maybe multiple driving lights (forks, under mirror, on canyon cages are all potential locations). Maybe cruise. The big draw is heated gear. a jacket and gloves is around 8.4 amps.

I wrote to superbright LED and asked about using their 2 wire unit. I have found some 3 contact ones that seem to have same schematic as concours flasher and I could make the harness. There is one on amazon that appears correct and one review from concours owner says worked so may try that one.

No I have not tried them yet as the bike is all torn apart to do maintenance and install things. But I am pretty sure the bulbs will require a new flasher. I think I read it somewhere for the bulbs I have. most do, unless they specifically say that they don't. They draw
such low current that the flasher acts as if a bulb is burned out-blinks fast.
 
Well I got reply about flasher from superbright LED. Not really helpful. Says it will prevent hyperflash ( yeah, that's why you go to sleeving flasher!). Didn't respond to difference between 2 wire and 3 wire and if any issues in using a 2 wire in system designed for 3 wire?
 
I need to go back and read the post again, but don't understand the problem?
It's EZ to find whatever you want.
Just go to Ebay and select whatever flasher/relay you want.


I suspect you want a pair of these. (3 pin)

If not here's a 4 pin, 5 pin, 2 pin.



Ride safe, Ted
 
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It's been 8 years (or maybe closer to 7) but there was a thread on the other forum about LEDs: how to install the front ones without taking all the plastic off; and some KIPASS Flash problems after the new flasher install. In certain situations (4 way flashers on when bike stove knob is turned to off position as I recall) the bike will seemingly go loco with flashing lights, buzzing glove box latch, moving gauge needles etc. I put in diode to stop that loco stuff and there is a photo that might help with the 2 wire into 3 connector problem. A lot of photos aren't visible to me because I can't log in over there anymore or because the links are just busted?...but you might want to go through the whole thread and see what you can glean from it. http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.0

Here is my post about the diodes: http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=19650.msg267118#msg267118

Here is the photo of the connector with the diodes installed in the line (note: diodes are wired in parallel, not in series, to increase wattage capacity).

i-bdgfQfm-M.jpg
 
Yes Ted, I saw that one and thought it would work. I found one that seems like it will plug right in and mount and as oem-no need to make harness and mount as one you linked to would require.

MFC PRO 12V 3-Pin Electronic LED Flasher Relay fix for LED Turnlight That Fixes Hyper Flash Problems FLR-MFC2 https://a.co/d/aYnODlh


Screenshot_20240102_143641_Amazon Shopping.jpgScreenshot_20240102_143646_Amazon Shopping.jpg

But I have seen a lot of people using 2 wire. On this forum old thread gave link to superbright LED 2 wire unit. I really wanted to understand the difference? I have seen in various places that maybe it won't make clicking noise? the dash indicators won't work correctly? Hazards wont work? Wanted to see if anyone had knowledge on this.
 
Farty Marty, yes I saw something about lighting up like Christmas tree, or something like that. Lot of good info on that thread. I had done general google search and that didn't come up.

Thanks to both of you.
 
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Marty, I read where you installed the diodes in that other thread. I was confused why added a second as I think you said 1 worked? Or did I misread that?
 
Marty, I read where you installed the diodes in that other thread. I was confused why added a second as I think you said 1 worked? Or did I misread that?
Yes one worked when tested but I wasn't sure if it was large enough to handle the current long term, so I added a second one along side it to add current capacity. I looked for a larger diode in my collection of components but couldn't find any so I just went with what I had on hand.
 
Thx. None of the examples seem to be like concours, which is 3 wire: 1 to battery (+), 1 to switch/signals/dash indicators, 1 to ground (-). As in picture I posted above.
I'm using a generic automotive electronic 3-wire flasher on my C10. I'm not familiar with C14s, but it sounds like the three-wire setup they use is the same as many Japanese cars and the C10. Superbrightleds sells one, but it might be in the automotive category. They are also all over eBay and Amazon. Hard to tell if there is any difference in quality with them, but they're cheap enough to gamble on. I got a 2-pack from Amazon for about $10 (I used the other one on my 600).

Only weird issue I encountered is that I needed a tiny bit of resistive load in the turn signal circuit to prevent my front LED running/turn bulbs from glowing on elevated brightness for running light mode (turn signals off). Using the stock 158 incandescent instrument panel turn signal indicators made them work perfectly. Don't know if that was a quirk of the flasher or the LED bulbs I'm using.
 
If was running lights, which I assumed you tapped from another circuit, and with signals off, doesn't seem like flasher issue. I would think the running lights should work with flasher removed.
 
If was running lights, which I assumed you tapped from another circuit, and with signals off, doesn't seem like flasher issue. I would think the running lights should work with flasher removed.
No, I'm talking about the running light filament in the 1157 combination turn signal/running light bulb on the C10. I do have added running/turn side markers (set up on a floating ground between the turn and running wires). Those actually work fine with LEDs (provided you get the polarity right).

The LED 1157 bulbs I have use rh same LED chips for both the running (low) and turn (high), but the circuitry just runs them at lower power for a signal from the running input, and full power for the turn input. My best guess is that this circuitry is just REALLY sensitive to a tiny input voltage, and the induced voltage from the running wire wrapped in the same harness as the turn is enough to partially engage the brighter turn setting. The incandescent indicator bulb is enough to shunt this small induced voltage to below the bulb trigger threshold, whereas the LED indicator is not.

I haven't done more testing to confirm this, but it seems like a plausible theory.
 
So C10 came with 1157 running lights/signal lights?

Regardless, I agree your theory seems plausible.
Yup, they use an 1157 bulb.

My 600 has the same setup, but that varied by country. Some countries had an 1157 bulb with running light on the low filament, but others omitted it and used only an 1156 bulb for turn only. I haven't looked through the parts diagrams for foreign models of the C10 to see if they varied too.

I'm setting my 600 up with a Skene photon blaster running/turn setup this winter, which will control both settings on the front, but that's another story. If I like it, I may do that to the Connie next winter. I'm doing it all with some homemade jumper harnesses that plug between the stock connectors, so it will all be easily reversible without any modification of the stock harness.
 
Skene photon blaster seems interesting. They have harness that can flash them by either tapping brakes twice, blowing horn, or putting on high beam. Gonna have to look for videos.
 
Skene photon blaster seems interesting. They have harness that can flash them by either tapping brakes twice, blowing horn, or putting on high beam. Gonna have to look for videos.
Yeah, they have a variety of options. I went with one that just has their conspicuity flicker for running lights at partial brightness (on their provided LED bars, which I'm mounting to the forks, and my running lights in the fairing, which I'll wire in), and then and then blinks them on and off at full brightness for turn signals.

I'm also setting up my taillight to use their P3 rear system, which I'm setting up with their LED bars on either side of my license plate and my stock taillight. I went with the deceleration model, so it will run both the added and my stock taillight at low brightness with flicker, and then bright under either brake application (brake switches) or engine braking (deceleration detection). It has a lot of modes to choose from, but they include flashing brake light options.

I got rear-ended in traffic last fall, and am taking proactive steps to reduce that risk in the future, haha.
 
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