• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Valve Adjust Preperation

Skeeter51

Training Wheels
Just a quick post as I know there are a lot already on this topic.
What parts/gaskets should I have on hand prior to tearing the bike down to check the valves?
Also is the Molybdenum Disulfide oil mentioned in the manual made up using the paste and oil or is it a purchased item?
One last question - what can be used as the liquid gasket?

Thanks
Skeeter.
 
Here's my list.

Right side subframe and motor mount replace bolts

Valve cover gasket

6 shims

Copper colored hi-temp rtv

Lucas cam break -in oil with moly ( just a few drops)

Regular10/40 motor oil ( to soak cams)

Blue locktite

Denatured alcohol

Blue paper towles

Flashlight batteries

Droplight bulb

Bel-ray waterproof grease

I think thats it


 
Ripper

Thanks for the info.
Curious - how do you know which shims you will need ahead of time ?

Skeeter
 
Skeeter said:
Ripper

Thanks for the info.
Curious - how do you know which shims you will need ahead of time ?

Skeeter

You don't.  You are better off going to a local dealer and buying the shims you need after you get your measurements.
 
I just did mine for the second time, I reused the gaskets. I just checked them before I reinstalled everything. The first time I did the valve adjustment I purchased all new gaskets and it was a waste of money.

The first time I checked I had one valve out but it was marginal. I changed it brought it into spec and the second time I adjusted the valves none were out. The first time I did it at 15,000 and I just checked at 40,000. No Issues.

I also just changed the plugs for the first time I purchased them when I did the first valve adjustment and when I removed them they were like new so I left them in. At 40,000 miles they still look like new but I'm not planning on checking the valves for another 40,000 miles so I figured I'd change them.



 
No problem skeeter. I also did not change plugs. But
I bought them. I only replaced the valve cover gasket
because there was some oil on the head from the
gasket so I chunked it for a new one.

Chuck
 
ripper said:
Here's my list.

Right side subframe and motor mount replace bolts

Valve cover gasket

6 shims

Copper colored hi-temp rtv

Lucas cam break -in oil with moly ( just a few drops)

Regular10/40 motor oil ( to soak cams)

Blue locktite

Denatured alcohol

Blue paper towles

Flashlight batteries

Droplight bulb

Bel-ray waterproof grease

I think thats it
Why do you need the Right side subframe and motor mount replace bolts ?can't use the old ones again ?
you know the #'s to order ?
Thanks
 
I really only have 11,000 miles on the bike and everything seems fine however I plan to put about 15,000 on it this coming season.
I am doing this for my own piece of mind so I know where I start at. Plus it is flipping cold out so I would rather spend the time
doing this when I will not be riding.

Thanks all for the replies.

Skeeter
 
Raananshenhav

I don't think I'll buy more of the bolts. But I read that
The old red/Orange stuff on the threads needs to be
cleaned before using blue locktite. I must mention
that I don't know if  Cap'n Bob was talking about
these bolts. But unless someone stops me i'm going
To reuse. I usually keep and write down part #'s .
I'll see if I can find um.

Chuck
 
I have the part #'s for the parts I used.

1 gasket , head cover          p/n 11061-0263

Bolt, flanged, 8x25 subframe
                                                  P/n 92153-1768

Bolt, socket, 10x45.              P/n 92153-1769
Front engine mounting

Chuck
 
Top