• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Valve adjustment - lunchbag letdown!

C

CC Rider

CC Rider
Member
Well, I carefully studied Fred Harman's videos, and the Motoresto, BikeFixer and other youtube videos as well. Bought a bunch of tools and a set of HotCams shims. Braced myself for the worst. Even researched helicoils. Then got to work. Five afternoons of effort later....all valves are still in spec! No adjustment or vacuum balance needed!

I did notice that #2 throttle body fitting, which is not easy to get to, can easily be accessed immediately after reinstalling the cam cover. At that point, you will know if vacuum balance work is needed and can easily run a hose out.

My 2019 has 22,500 miles on it. Most of the valve movement should be done by now. It will take a great deal of self-discipline to do this again at 65,000 miles.

Now I just have to figure out how all those bits go back together.
 
The great thing about going through the exercise is how much more you know about the heart of your bike. Now, you have great piece of mind that she is mechanically perfect in the upper end and will provide many more trouble free miles.šŸ˜€

I took advantage of having mine apart for the check and installed new header pipes, a radiator guard, and all new coolant lines. Mine is 10 years older than your bike so the rubber replacement was much more important.

I sure do love how she runs!!!!

Rob
 
Yea, I did mine around 25K or so. They were in spec but I adjusted them to the upper limit. I'm with you on doing it again. I've yet to read about a failure due to out of spec valves. Take your time putting it back together.
 
Define "in spec".

I have done probably close to 100 valve adjustments on C14's and I've never found one yet that didn't need multiple valve adjustments. If you've gone to all the trouble to get the valve cover off, you really should center spec them all while you have it apart.
 
I did mine on my 2009 with 15k last year. Thirteen of 16 needed shim adjustments for being tight. Seemed to run more smoothly with more power when doneā€¦ but that could have been my satisfaction bias. šŸ˜€
 
CC Rider said:
Well, I carefully studied Fred Harman's videos, and the Motoresto, BikeFixer and other youtube videos as well. Bought a bunch of tools and a set of HotCams shims. Braced myself for the worst. Even researched helicoils. Then got to work. Five afternoons of effort later....all valves are still in spec! No adjustment or vacuum balance needed!

I did notice that #2 throttle body fitting, which is not easy to get to, can easily be accessed immediately after reinstalling the cam cover. At that point, you will know if vacuum balance work is needed and can easily run a hose out.

My 2019 has 22,500 miles on it. Most of the valve movement should be done by now. It will take a great deal of self-discipline to do this again at 65,000 miles.

Now I just have to figure out how all those bits go back together.
Click to expand...
I wouldnt bank on 'most of the valve movement should be done by now' ...most of us have had the done at 30k and 60k. Most of my movement was b4 60k...I think cliff wasn't seeing any adjustments after 100k...
 
Fred H. said:
Define "in spec".

I have done probably close to 100 valve adjustments on C14's and I've never found one yet that didn't need multiple valve adjustments. If you've gone to all the trouble to get the valve cover off, you really should center spec them all while you have it apart.
Click to expand...
Define "in spec". Thank you, Fred, that's a good question.

All the intakes were minimum 0.127mm, all the exhausts were greater than 0.187mm, the feeler gauge was loose on exhausts so well above 0.187. With all valves above minimum, it was a relief avoid pulling the cams and messing with the shims (not that I'd EVER drop a shim into the wrong place), then tackling vacuum sync. Yes, I admit it, I took the lazy way out. If one valve had been tight I would have done them all. The bike is running perfectly so presumably it is OK for a few more miles.

Given your comments and Cliffs as well, an inspection at 50 - 65k seems reasonable. Along with fresh coolant, plugs and general service.
 
Your description of the measurements tells me that your valves are right on the edge of the lower limit. In a few more thousand miles, several of them will probably be "out of spec" and beyond the lower limit.

The exhaust valves tend to be the ones that get tight first. I've also found that bikes that are run into the higher RPM ranges often will tend to have more valve clearance movement than ones that are kept in the lower RPM ranges.
 
Last edited:
Fred H. said:
Define "in spec".

I have done probably close to 100 valve adjustments on C14's and I've never found one yet that didn't need multiple valve adjustments. If you've gone to all the trouble to get the valve cover off, you really should center spec them all while you have it apart.
Click to expand...
Why ā€œcenter specā€? The outside spec value is still in spec, and will allow more valve tightening while still maintaining the engineered values.
 
Fred H. said:
Your description of the measurements tells me that your valves are right on the edge of the lower limit. In a few more thousand miles, several of them will probably be "out of spec" and beyond the lower limit.

The exhaust valves tend to be the ones that get tight first. I've also found that bikes that are run into the higher RPM ranges often will tend to have more valve clearance movement than ones that are kept in the lower RPM ranges.
Click to expand...
Point taken. Your response makes complete sense.

Courtesy of Steve's excellent Mountain Runner Premium adjustment, I'm having difficulty accessing higher rpms (because I tend to run out of road). But I'll move up the next valve inspection/adjustment.

Bike is almost completely back together. Fred thank you for commenting.
 
Particularly with the exhaust valves, the longer they are in contact with the seat the greater they will dissipate heat. Cooler valves maintain their clearances longer, which is the reason the intakes stay in spec longer than the exhausts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top