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Yet another suspension rebuild

batboy

batboy

Guest
Guest
In the 3 weeks since I bought my 1988 Concours, I've done the Mean Streak 17" wheel/brake conversion and several other little things. Once I got the bike back on road, I decided to let Connie tell me what she needed next. The bike's suspension is mush and bumps are jarring. The nose dives excessively during braking. In another year or two, I will probably swap in a ZRX front end. So, I don't want to spend a lot of dough right now on the forks. But, I figure it needs more than just changing the fork oil. I have a new Race Tech 1.0 springs and 15w fork oil on order. I also picked up what I need to do an oil refill for the rear shock.


While waiting for parts, I was messing around and decided to check the air pressure. Front and back tires are at 42 psi (that seems a bit high?). Air pressure in the forks and in the rear shock was basically nothing (maybe 1 or 2 psi at best). I don't care about the front forks, I'm putting new springs and fork oil in and eliminating the air valve. I ordered manual preload adjuster fork caps from the later ZG1000 and hope they fit the early models. I know people will tell me I should get the emulator valves too, but that raises the ante a bit more than I like (I might swap in different forks, remember).

I'm very concerned about the rear shock. If the air pressure leaked out years ago, I figure the shock is toast. But, since I'm waiting on parts, I plan to put 25 psi into the rear and check it daily to see if it leaks immediately. If so, I'll replace the shock. if no significant leak, I'll try refilling it with fresh shock fluid (actually I will be using 10w hydraulic jack oil in the shock).

I plan to change the fork springs with the forks left on the bike (the early ZG1000 has drain holes). But, I did want to lower the front a little (maybe 1/2 inch) since I have a low profile rear 17" tire. I know that I need to slide the tube up to do this task. Do you have to loosen the pinch bolts on both upper and lower triple tree clamps? Is there a step by step guide? I looked in the tech pages, but didn't see one for lowering the front.
 
And while you’re in there, check your steering head bearings.
Clean, lube and properly set preload.  :great:
 
Okay, I've loosened the 4 lower triple tree pinch bolts and the 4 upper triple tree pinch bolts, but the forks would not slide up. Before long I have pipe wrenches, big hammer and chisel, and cutting torch out and soon everything is mangled, melted pile of junk. I see there is a pinch bolt on each of the two handlebar risers, which nobody told me about, so presumably that needs to be loosened too.

The middle sentence was a joke.
 
I removed the handlebars and using little bungee cords, I carefully hung them out of the way with the brake and clutch reservoirs as level as possible. Now that gives my lots of room to work on the forks. I have the bike jacked up and front tire barely suspended. Think I'll first adjust the forks up (lower the front end) and once that's done, I'll replace the springs and refill the fork oil.

Has anyone changed the early air pressure to the later style manual preload adjuster with a bolt? Hope it can be done and if so, a few hints on how you did it would be great.
 
The gold emulators are really a must but if $$$ is an issue then there are  cheapo knock off emulators which should work just fine. I run 1.2 Sonics with emulators and 50w shock oil. the front is just about perfect as it can be  with emulsion tubes.  I think you would be happy with the Sonic and emulators that you  see no need to go to the ZRX front. To be honest I prefer the 18" wheel on the C10. I think it handles better than the 17 inch.
The stock  rear shock is really not worth the  will be time of day. It is just no good no matter what you do to it..
I know you dont want to hear this but the Progressive 465 is a really good option for that bike. This is a valved shock. ( the stock rear is not)
The other option is a c14 shock. The spring is soft with that  c14 shock  on our c10's but  you are  already running soft front springs so it should be a good match.
 
Does the 86 bike you have, have spacers in the forks?
Do you know if the new springs will be used with spacers?

All of this will be very important if you use the adjustable fork caps.
Reason is; The adjustable caps may be longer than the original so they will add preload.
If they are; You'll need to shorten your spacer to adjust for that extra length.

Why are you wanting to lower the front of your bike?
The change to a 17" rim already lowered the front of the bike..

Ride safe, Ted
 
The bike is a 1988 model year. The springs I took out were 20.25" long and did have a 2" long steel spacer. The new springs came with a piece of PCV to use as a 6" spacer in each fork. The new spring is 14" plus 6" spacer for 20" length almost the same as the stock spring. I assumed I was supposed to use the 2" steel spacer too.

The manual fork adjustor cap from the later C-10s will not work. They do not fit into the tube. I think the early C-10 inside fork tubes cap threads are down lower on the inside of the tube. Anyone with a later C-10 need a fork pre-loader cap? I now have a couple extras now.

I'm having trouble compressing the fork springs enough to put the old caps back on.
 
STOP!!
You can not lower the front of an 88 as it has a crossover tube between the forks.
The ends of it set over holes in the tubes that allows oil/pressure to pass between the tubes.

The rear shock is probably ok.
Someone may not have serviced it.
Low or no pressure would also help explain the rough ride.

NOTE: Be careful when you try to put air in the rear.
          If you use a std air compressor that is set to high pressure, It is very EZ to overpressure.
              {as there is little volume in the shock}
          Max pressure is 50 psi.
          Use a regulator to reduce available pressure prior to putting air in the shock.

NOTE II: Because of the low volume, checking the air with a gauge will probably loose 5- 10 psi every time you do it.
                  Makes checking for leaks difficult...

Use a speed handle to install the fork caps.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Yes, my bike has the crossover tube between the forks. Yes, it can be lowered, I've already done it. I raised both forks together, not a problem.

I haven't done anything to the rear shock yet other than add air with a wimpy wore out 12v compressor you plug into a cigarette lighter. No worries on over-pressurizing, this old pump gives up at about 30 psi. I'm a little confused about what kind of air gauge to use. The manual says don't use a tire gauge, but then doesn't say what kind to use. Thought I'd do the front forks first before messing with the rear shock. Just taking one step at a time.

As for starting the fork caps, I don't have one of those speed handles. Trying to use a deep socket and ratchet, but I  can't seem to press it down far enough to get it started. These new springs are much stiffer than the old ones. I'll give my cordless impact a try tomorrow and hope I don't get it cross threaded.

I only have one tube refilled. I accidentally spilled my expensive fork oil. Hope I have enough for the other fork now.
 
You need a no leak tire/air suspension hand pump/pressure gage, Harley sells one. Part Number 54630-03A
You may find a cheaper gage or gage pump look for one no air loss connection. I had a 12v air compressor with gage and I would pump up to 40psi and quickly disconnected.

Don't use impact wrench, take spring out and start cap with no pressure and mark cap and tube when threads disengage. Now replace spring and start cap where both marks align on the cap and on the tube. Maybe use your impact wrench with no power to add some weight behind your push and twist to start the threads. You don't want to cross thread. Impact wrench has many good uses but starting a fine threaded cap is not one of them.
 
Daytona Mike, The progressive 465 series shock is what Murph's sell, right? If this OEM shock won't hold air pressure, I'm definitely getting the 465 shock. Does the replacement 465 shock use air pressure too? The C-14 shock is not an option for me, because I have Soupy's lowering links that will interfere with the spring on the C-14 shock.

Bob, thanks for the air pump info. I hear you loud and clear about not wanting to strip out the fine threads. That's what kept me from using the impact up to this point. I ate a bowl of Wheaties this morning, so I'll try using the manual method one more time before my flabby arm muscles get too tired. By golly, 20 years ago when I was younger and stronger, I could have done this one handed... mumble mumble.


EDIT: Okay, I got the first fork cap back on. I think the Wheaties helped. Now to drain the oil from the other fork and see if I can make an even bigger mess than the first fork. Maybe I'll try the Homer Simpson breakfast to give me strength on the next fork cap (i.e. donuts).
 
My concern is; I think the crossover is positioned over the holes, by resting against the lower triple tree.
I don't recall a clamp?
The way you have it now, it's above the triple tree. Could possibly move?

I was pointing out that if your checking for a leak, the pressure will drop from checking.
ie; Realize it will drop pressure every time you do it.
        Not an ideal way to determine if/how much the shock is leaking air.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Ted, the crossover consists of two band clamps that fasten to the forks and a tube that goes between them. Stock position is right above the lower triple tree. Now the crossover is higher by a half inch (I can see a space between the triple tree and the crossover). You can't go down (raise the front) more than stock, but you can lower the front (raise the forks). Don't try to move the fork tubes independently or you'll mangle or break the tube. I moved the forks together and carefully measured how much stuck above the top triple tree to make sure both forks were exactly the same.

EDIT: Ted, I looked it over again and checked the manual. I thought the clamps were part of the crossover, but I guess you're right. The clamps are separate parts and are mounted above the crossover to prevent it from moving up. When the crossover is in the stock position, the triple tree prevent it from moving down. Looks like I need to get a couple clamps to attach onto the fork tubes below the crossover now. I don't see why I can't use worm-gear style hose clamps for this situation. Thanks for pointing that out.
 
Ted, look at my last post, I added a bit to it. You're right about the crossover. In theory the way I have it now, the crossover could technically be able to move down up to a 1/2 inch. Unlikely because it's a tight fit, but possible. Add a couple clamps to the bottom of the crossover and it should be good to go.
 
Well, I'm no longer a forks virgin. The new Race Tech 1.0 springs are in and the forks are refilled with 15w fork oil. I got lucky and had barely enough fork oil (after knocking the open bottle over yesterday). I just have to put the handlebars/riser back on. Oh, and round up a couple clamps. Thanks to all those people that helped, including past posts that I read during my research on how to do this. Apparently not many folks are doing much suspension work on the early C-10s anymore.
 
I took a test ride and grinned like an idiot the whole time. The new springs and fork oil refill was much needed. The bike rides much more smoothly. Diving when hitting the brakes hard is vastly improved. I hear people say lowering the front makes the steering quicker. Honestly, I don't know exactly what that means, but the bike seems to be more willing to sweep into the curves just a bit faster. New springs and fork oil only cost $110.

Rear  suspension: I don't know how fast the rear shock loses air psi, but the pressure drops off significantly after a couple days. I don't want to mess with a 30 year old shock that leaks.. Since I stayed under budget on the front suspension, I'm going to bite the bullet and get a new 465 rear shock from Murph's. Hopefully after the shock, that will be about all I need to do for now.

I ran it up to 100 mph to "blow the cobwebs out" as my Dad used to say. Funny thing is before I did that, it idled low and sounded like it was about to die sometimes. Now, after that brief blast to triple digits, it's idling too fast, and seems to be more zippy. I wonder if there was gunk in the carbs that got flushed out when I twisted the throttle?
 
When you took it for a nice run you burned off the carbon on the valve seats and now you have more compression.
Run the crap out of that engine and keep the revs over 4k.. do not short shift it.. That engine loves to rev and will love you back as long as  long as you dont lug the engine.
Oh your going to love the 465 (no it does not use any air)
 
I placed an order for a rear shock. Murph's informed me they've been backordered for 3 months. They will contact their supplier and see what's going on and get back to me.

Well, that don't sound good. Not many options since I have Soupy's lowering links. Guess I'll wait it out and see if they can get restocked.
 
Well, considering this is the first time I've worked on a motorcycle rear shock, I must honestly say I personally don't know. But, I stayed up late for a couple of evenings searching through forum discussions. People say the 465 will fit. Others say the C-14 shock and ZZR shock will not. I think there was a mention that Soucy's links works with the C-14 shock, but Soupy's don't. Those names being so similar and both made lowering links, that can't be a coincidence. So, I'm trusting COG members when they said the 465 plays nice with my lowering links. Of course, I can't find that particular post right now. However, I think most of you are very trustworthy from what I've seen, Salute!
 
batboy said:
Well, considering this is the first time I've worked on a motorcycle rear shock, I must honestly say I personally don't know. But, I stayed up late for a couple of evenings searching through forum discussions. People say the 465 will fit. Others say the C-14 shock and ZZR shock will not. I think there was a mention that Soucy's links works with the C-14 shock, but Soupy's don't. Those names being so similar and both made lowering links, that can't be a coincidence. So, I'm trusting COG members when they said the 465 plays nice with my lowering links. Of course, I can't find that particular post right now. However, I think most of you are very trustworthy from what I've seen, Salute!
Click to expand...

name's don't mean a thing...
both products are completely different..
Norm's lowering is not "links", it's the actual rocker the shock and standard links attach to....

http://forum.cog-online.org/c-10-emporium/fs-norm-soucy-link-and-c14-shock/msg650965/#msg650965

Soupy's are the adjustable "dog bones", which by them selves, when using the standard rocker, may not fit correctly with the shock from Murph...

two different methods.
 
Murph's sent me a short and to the point message. There are no shocks in stock and the distributor does not know when they'll be available again.

I guess just to get me through fall, I'll refill the shock, and ride it that way until Thanksgiving, and then find a permanent solution over the winter.
 
batboy said:
Murph's sent me a short and to the point message. There are no shocks in stock and the distributor does not know when they'll be available again.

I guess just to get me through fall, I'll refill the shock, and ride it that way until Thanksgiving, and then find a permanent solution over the winter.
Click to expand...

you really don't read the stuff people hand you like I did in my last post, do you...?

you had a $250 shock and rocker assembly, I linked there...

meh... whatever... :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
 
MOB, I saw the link, thanks for posting it. I went to the link earlier and checked it out. The C-14 shock raises the bike considerably, so even with the Soucy part it will be higher than what the bike is right now. I seriously considered it, but I decided it's not the right path for me at this time.
 
batboy said:
MOB, I saw the link, thanks for posting it. I went to the link earlier and checked it out. The C-14 shock raises the bike considerably, so even with the Soucy part it will be higher than what the bike is right now. I seriously considered it, but I decided it's not the right path for me at this time.
Click to expand...
  The lowering link with the C14 shock gives you stock ride height.
 
Norm offers the rockers in various drop's.
I think the cost is $200 {includes new bearings}.

If you use a C-14 shock, his 1 1/2" rocker would make the bike approx. stock height.
I have a C-14 shock and a 1 1/2" rocker on my C-10.

His 2" rocker should lower the bike approx. 1/2".
Not sure what drop's he offers.
Only he can confirm what steps he offers...
If this is of interest to anyone , contact him.
Here is his up to date info:  sanleonster@gmail.com
                                          phone# (281) 339-1156

Ride safe, Ted
 
batboy said:
Well, considering this is the first time I've worked on a motorcycle rear shock, I must honestly say I personally don't know. But, I stayed up late for a couple of evenings searching through forum discussions. People say the 465 will fit. Others say the C-14 shock and ZZR shock will not. I think there was a mention that Soucy's links works with the C-14 shock, but Soupy's don't. Those names being so similar and both made lowering links, that can't be a coincidence. So, I'm trusting COG members when they said the 465 plays nice with my lowering links. Of course, I can't find that particular post right now. However, I think most of you are very trustworthy from what I've seen, Salute!
Click to expand...

I'll give you the straight scoop as I have had everyone of the shocks you mentioned on one of my C-10's.  Out of the box the 465 will fit, no problems.  The ZZR and the C-14 shock will fit with some very minor modifications.  I found with the C-14 shock you will probably want to go with a lowering link, and  the Soucy's link is a straight switch out.  I have not used Soupy's because I already found a Soucy's to install. 

All the above mentioned shocks are far better than stock.  To me the ZZR was too soft, the Progressive was better, but not enough for my 300 pound plus frame, I like the C-14 best out of the three.  That is my opinion, you will find other that will disagree with that.  I currently have a custom Cogent Dynamics Inc rebuilt C-14 shock that I am going to install.  I have yet to put any miles on it so I can not offer a opinion, but I am willing to bet it will be the best yet because it was built for my weight.  https://www.motocd.com/
 
Great info Fred.  I too went through several different  shocks on my C10 and you are correct about the ZZR shock - the spring is too soft even for me (230lbs)  The 465 is about as good as it gets for the money.
Cogent Dynamics (good company)  did my KLR650  suspension  (MOAB shock on  the rear-Sonics and  emulators up front) which transformed the horrible stock suspension (KLR stock suspension  was about the WORST I have ever ridden on any bike) .

Another option I never tried (a little pricey but you get a high quality fully adjustable shock) is the Wilburs
https://tinyurl.com/yamcyxzs

I bet the Cogent Dynamics rebuilt C14 shock (re-sprung for your weight I assume) will be even better or as good as it gets. What did they charge you to do that shock may I ask?
 
Thanks for all the info Fred and Mike. It's good to hear a comparison from folks that have experience with all the options. The Wilburs shock from Europe looks interesting. Not sure what the exchange rate is from dollars to euros, but they look expensive and you have to deal with shipping and customs from across the pond.

I can't find a Progressive Suspensions 465-series (part # 465-1155B) shock in stock anywhere (this is what Murph's sold). I found several sites that had it listed as being in stock, but after I called or emailed them, I found out they were not available. The manufacturer probably discontinued the model that fits the C-10.

The C-14 shock from the second generation Concours seems like the next best shock for the C-10 when you rummage through the used parts bin. But, the main problem for me is that the shock is too tall for the C-10 and the Soupy lowering links interfere with the external spring. Even when you can find the Soucy link (also discontinued), the bike would still be taller than what I have now (1.5" lower than stock). Ted says the Soucy link puts the C-14 shock right at stock height, that would put me back on my tiptoes.

That leaves the ZZR1200 shock (which is what I decided to get). The ZZR1200 is readily available and cheap. While about a 1/4" taller than stock, but with lowered forks and a low profile 17" rear tire, my bike would still be about 1/2" lower than stock (without Soupy's lowering links). I have looked at as many photos as possible showing the installed ZZR1200 shock on a Concours 1000. It appears to me that my Soupy's lowering links will work with some minor tweaking. If not, once I get a lower seat, I should be back to flat-footing it again.

About the only downside to the ZZR1200 shock I've heard is the spring rate is a little light (but still better than stock). I weigh in at 190 lbs. and plan to get lighter weight mufflers and battery, so perhaps the springs will be tolerable. Again, it's still better than a working stock shock and as a reminder, my current shock leaks, so anything will be better than what I currently have now. I found a low mileage ZZR1200 shock that I ordered for $75.

SHORT VERSION: The Progressive 465-series shock is unavailable and C-14 shock is too tall. So, I bought a ZZR1200 shock instead.
 
ZZR shock is a good option. Dont worry about that extra height..the spring is so soft that it will not raise the bike. As a matter of fact the bike will sag  too much when you get on the bike so you will probably have to add all the preload you can to get the bike back up to where it should be even with your lowering links and lighter bike parts.
Another words.. your golden and you will  really like that shock. Good choice and congrats. Let us know how you like it.
 
Yea, I run the ZZR shock, it believe it added a little height over stock maybe 1/2". It is a little mushy but way better than stock, especially your stock.
 
batboy said:
Daytona Mike, The progressive 465 series shock is what Murph's sell, right? If this OEM shock won't hold air pressure, I'm definitely getting the 465 shock. Does the replacement 465 shock use air pressure too? The C-14 shock is not an option for me, because I have Soupy's lowering links that will interfere with the spring on the C-14 shock.

Bob, thanks for the air pump info. I hear you loud and clear about not wanting to strip out the fine threads. That's what kept me from using the impact up to this point. I ate a bowl of Wheaties this morning, so I'll try using the manual method one more time before my flabby arm muscles get too tired. By golly, 20 years ago when I was younger and stronger, I could have done this one handed... mumble mumble.


EDIT: Okay, I got the first fork cap back on. I think the Wheaties helped. Now to drain the oil from the other fork and see if I can make an even bigger mess than the first fork. Maybe I'll try the Homer Simpson breakfast to give me strength on the next fork cap (i.e. donuts).
Click to expand...
The progressive 465 is the one Murph sells No it doesnt use air Ive had mine on with the soupys lowering links with no issues for about a year
 
Do we all agree the ZZR1200 shock will be better than the stock 30 year old C-10 shock with zero air pressure?

I need to go back through the topics about the ZZR1200 shock. I know the shock itself is not serviceable, but I thought someone had installed a different spring?

Well, I found a thread by Daytona Mike where he was looking to install a different spring. Does not look like anything was ever done though other than to conclude the ZZR shock cannot be revalved, so thus is not the best shock to use. Oh well, the ZZR shock I ordered is on the way.

I would get a Progressive 465 series shock if there were any available. Looks like they're history. The C-14 shock is either too tall or I'm too short. Maybe a little of both. So it basically boiled down to the frugal ZZR1200 shock.

 

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You will be happy with it. Cruising the shock rides real nice. I don’t have it cranked up all the way and is very compliant in twisters and two up.
 
I just got it yesterday. I thought it included mounting hardware, which I guess it did since the top and bottom bolts and nuts were on the ZZR1200 shock I bought. But, the bushing was not. I have a new Kawasaki shock sleeve bushing on order, but it'll be another week. Right now, I'm attempting to modify the C-10 lower shock bushing to use until the new one arrives.

I took a photo of the stock shock compared to the ZZR1200 shock. They are exactly the same length bolt hole eye to bolt hole eye (I measured twice). Someone posted on the forum several years ago that the stock was 13 inches and the ZZR1200 was 13-1/4 inches. Looks like they're both 13-1/4 inches to me (check out photo).

The ZZR spring seems very stout to me, but I haven't installed it yet. The spring wire is 12mm and the overall installed length is 8 inches and the coil spring diameter is 3 inches. The spring can be removed if you use a strut spring compressors (can be rented for free at Autozone). There's a spacer with a slot on the cleavis end of the shock that pulls out once the spring is compressed. There's a YouTube video that shows how to do it. I don't know the spring rate of the ZZR1200 shock spring, but there are a bunch of springs available if a heavier duty spring is needed. For now, I'm going to use what's on the shock and decide if I'm happy or if I need a better spring.

Oh yeah, I know people said in the past that Soupy's lowering links won't work with the ZZR1200 shock because it'll hit the spring. Looks like I should be able to get it to work, but I need to have the shock mounted on the bike first before I know for sure. The stock shock rubber bellows and the ZZR1200 shock spring are nearly the same diameter. If all else fails, I can shim the top of the lowering link a bit since the heim joint on the upper end of the link will allow a slight angle.
 

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If you plan to try swapping in a ZZR1200 shock, make sure you get the bottom bushing and bolt. I was able to modify the C-10 bushing, but it was a lot of work. I have a new bushing on the way, so I'll swap in the new for the temporary one I made. You will also lose the grease zerk for the bottom shock mount. I put some grease on the bushing when I installed the shock and will just have to manually grease the bushing every so often.

I got the ZZR1200 shock installed, but I'm still working on the lowering links. The Soupy's links do barely hit the shock spring. So, that much is true. But, looks like I can cut down the upper link mounting spacer the thickness of a washer and then add a washer onto the inside of the link's heim joint to shim it out about 1mm.  Not sure that will be enough, but it's best to take little steps when tweaking things.
 
Sounds like your on the right track..
When you do the mods, be sure to check the Center stand to see if it clears the Links when the stand is up and weight is on/off the rear tire.
When I did mine, I thought I was done.
      Got a surprise when I raised the center stand.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Ok, I have the Soupy lowering links installed and there is no interference. I used 5 flat washers (each are 2mm thick) on the top of each link. The spacer is 10mm thick and normally goes to the outside of the upper link. Instead of using the spacer, I put 3 washers on the outer side and 2 on the inner side. Now the top of the link is shimmed out enough to keep the lowering link from touching the shock spring. Looks good, I'll get everything torqued down and fairing back together tomorrow. Can't wait to take a test ride.

Regarding the center stand. It's worthless, I might remove it. By worthless, I mean had a hard time putting the bike on the center stand even before I lowered the bike. But, now that it's lowered, it's impossible to use.
 
I ran into the same problem when I lowered my C-14.
  So I shortened the center stand.
        Problem solved..

Ride safe, Ted
 
The only time (for me) the center stand would be handy is out on the road. Otherwise at home I can lift the bike with a small low-profile floor jack no problem. The front tip over bars are a great place to put jack stands by the way (I duct taped a piece of rubber onto each jack stand to prevent damaging the bars).

After  reading several posts about cutting and rewelding the center stand, I considered doing it, but when you look at the stand it's tough to cut more than 1/2 inch from the legs without messing up the foot lever. If you cut the upper part, then it will interfere with the shock. Ted, how do you cut an inch off and still make the center stand functional? I'm assuming the foot lever will need to be repositioned and rewelded?

I'm looking at ways to lighten the bike and removing the center stand might be a way to lose 3 or 4 pounds. Besides, on a lowered C10, the center stand is often the first thing that scrapes when carving up the curves. I guess on road trips I could carry a small scissor jack in a saddle bag in case I need to replace a rear tire or something like that.
 
I shortened a C-14 center stand, not a C-10 stand, so I can't be sure about a C-10.
  I think you have to remove the material on a C-10 stand below the crossover brace.
  If it is not possible to remove enough material there,  it should be possible to replace the crossover brace with a smaller diameter or different curvature brace.

I know this is a lot of effort, but I would go to whatever effort is required to keep my CS. {as they are very handy to me}..

NOTE: When Jim S installed his header, I think he had a removable CS..
          I went to extremes to build a header that would fit and also keep the use of my CS.
            As you intend to use a ZX-1000 header, your CS will not fit, and/or you might talk with Jim.

PS: Did you try fitting your ZX header while the plastic was off?

Ride safe, Ted
 
I did not do a real trial fitting of the exhaust header, but I did mock it up as much as possible without removing the stock head pipes. I have identified what needs to move and about how much. The lower part of the radiator needs to move towards the front at least an inch, etc. But, that's a different topic and a different thread.

I have the bike back together, but it's drizzling. Will probably have to wait until tomorrow for a test ride. The ZZR1200 shock might be physically the same length as the C-10 shock, but once it's on, it sure makes the bike stand a little taller (1/4"?). Maybe it's the spring which doesn't sag like the stock setup or I have too much pre-load or something. Good thing I got those lowering links to work.

For those that have the ZZR1200 shock, what are you using for pre-load and what setting did you use for rebound? I was going to try "2" on the rebound setting first, but I changed my mind and turned it to "3" instead. Is there a procedure for dialing in pre-load?

EDIT: I checked with the ZZR forum and most solo riders use the 2 setting for rebound.
 
I changed the rebound setting back to "2" and I have the pre-load set to "3" (that's the middle setting and most people on the ZZR forum set pre-load at 3 or 4). I watched that video on how to set sag, but I had no assistant to help me, The sun finally peeked through the clouds, so I took a quick test ride. I was expecting a better ride, but the ZZR1200 shock performed even better than expected. For $75, this ZZR1200 shock is definitely a frugal mod. I'll mess around a bit more on pre-load, but I think the current settings are real close. Between the shock and the new fork springs/oil refill, I'm quite pleased. I went for a second test ride that ended up being 30 miles. I should be done with suspension for now.
 
batboy said:
I changed the rebound setting back to "2" and I have the pre-load set to "3" (that's the middle setting and most people on the ZZR forum set pre-load at 3 or 4). I watched that video on how to set sag, but I had no assistant to help me, The sun finally peeked through the clouds, so I took a quick test ride. I was expecting a better ride, but the ZZR1200 shock performed even better than expected. For $75, this ZZR1200 shock is definitely a frugal mod. I'll mess around a bit more on pre-load, but I think the current settings are real close. Between the shock and the new fork springs/oil refill, I'm quite pleased. I went for a second test ride that ended up being 30 miles. I should be done with suspension for now.
Click to expand...

Those are the same settings that I use on my ZZR shock. Even mid-corner bumps don't disturb the bike at all. I only weigh 130# but ride a little harder than most. I am very pleased with my $50 shock. The only other thing I bought was the bushing because I didn't have my lathe yet but I had the right bolt. ;D I might be able to set sag tomorrow just to see how close I am.
 
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