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Shifter Foot Clearance at Fairing

SethInIllinois

SethInIllinois

Member
Member
Does anyone else have issues catching their foot on the fairing for downshifts? I'm still getting used to this bike and learning the muscle memory, but I often have clumsy downshifts because my toes are getting caught on the front fairing.

I have size 11/12 feet, and generally wear streamlined motorcycle boots (currently have a set of Sidi Mag-1 boots, which have a pretty sleek toebox). The bike has Murph's kneesavers on it, which feel really natural, and the position of the shift lever is comfortable for upshift and downshifts. The shift lever itself is also an adjustment from my other bike, because the Connie lever pivots up in front, where my other bike has a lever that pivots right in front/below the peg, so the arc of the shifter follows your foot, instead of opposite. Not a big issue, but just one of those things that feels different.

Anyway, just thought I'd see if anyone else had similar feelings/issues. It just feels like the fairing is about 1-2" too close to the shifter.
 
I've heard of some who trimmed the fairing back but they had much larger feet , like 13+ feet . Do your boots have a defined heel ? I had a pair where the heel edge was back too much causing my toe to be too close .
 
Size 12 here, boots have mattered over the years for me, upshifting was my problem. I have Murphs original peg lowers, I moved the shift lever down..
 
Size13’s here. Yes. I got used to it but I had to touch up the fairing trim piece with black gasket maker occasionally or the metal showed.
 
Sounds like I'll probably get used to it. I did notice that the rubber is wearing off the edge trim down there, so the gasket maker is a good idea.

I am still adjusting to the very different ergos from my 600. After riding the Connie the other day, I took my 600 out and it felt so strange! Felt like my knees were up against my chest, haha. And it's even a pretty tame and relaxed position for a 600 sportbike compared to the aggressive race-replica direction they went in the 90s. It's all stock pegs and bars, and except for my knees getting a bit stiff and butt getting sore on long trips, it's pretty comfortable. The Connie is a whole nother level of comfort, though, especially with the Murph's pegs and big seat with space to move around. I have a set of Murph's bar risers, but I doubt I'll bother installing them, as it's already pretty darn comfortable for my frame (5'-9" tall and 32" inseam).

I do miss the light weight of the 600, though. I never worried about tipping over on a slippery spot at a stop, because I can catch that bike if it's already halfway over. Not so on the Connie! I had a moment of panic the other day in the rain when my foot slipped on slick spot at a stop sign and I felt it going over and quickly realized the margin for catching it was very tight. I need to make my tip-over bars and get them on (I have the hardware kit from Murph, but have to make the hoops, since he can't get them anymore).
 
A near tipover with a C-10 quickly degenerates into a test of willpower and stubbornness. I’m about 3 out of 4 with gravity winning 1.
 
Sz 15s here,I put on Murphs lowering kit and also changed the angle of the shifter but my shoe occassionally rubs the rubber fairing trim. I get the tipover premise but if I was 20 years younger I wouldnt have joined Connie Droppers.
 
Yeah, I like the look of the bike without bars, but it's never been over, and I'd like to reduce the risk of busting it up too bad if I do have an oopsie.

I need to find some time for the fab, though. I need to make new brackets for the Dale Walker slip-ons, because they don't fit with the rear tip-over bars.

On the front bars, I'm planning to make the hoops per the Murphs/Rivco dimensions, but add a tube that extends back to tie into the rear upper motor mount bolt on each side to provide some strength against the bars folding back. I'm also considering making my own lower bracket with an extra boss to use my KB folding highway pegs. I really like them, and if I can get them to fit and be positioned comfortably just below the bar hoops, I think that will look less cluttered than the standard clamp-on highway pegs on the tip-over bars.
 
After I've been riding this a bit more, I figured I'd write an update. I adjusted the shifter up about 1cm last night, and in combination with developing some muscle memory for where it's at relative to the pegs, the shifting has gotten a lot more natural. I still catch my toe on the fairing occasionally, but otherwise, it's a lot better now that it's higher.
 
It's funny when I think WAY back to when I got my c10, I also would catch my size 12 boot on the fairing. I came from a Honda vf700f interceptor and had to develop a.new routine for moving my feet around the pegs. Glad to see you grown into the bike....

Join for the bike,.stay for the people!!
 
Konehead34 said:
It's funny when I think WAY back to when I got my c10, I also would catch my size 12 boot on the fairing. I came from a Honda vf700f interceptor and had to develop a.new routine for moving my feet around the pegs. Glad to see you grown into the bike....

Join for the bike,.stay for the people!!
Click to expand...
Yup, I'm enjoying the community here! Hopefully can see some of you folks in person someday.

Yeah, hopping back and forth from my C10 and 600 is quite the change. The 600 has a pretty upright seating position (it predates the aggressive race-rep style that followed in the 90s) but wow do the pegs feel high!
 
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