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Urgent need of bearing race removal tool #57001-1107 for 2005 C-10

V

v65bill

Member
Member
Tried everything but nothing worked getting the upper race out of the head. The problem is there is not enough of the race exposed to actually drive it out using a long punch like works with every other bike in the world! Bob Rainey is doing the job on his 2005 and he's hoping one of you guys have had to buy one as they aren't available anywhere. He'll be happy to pay for shipping to and from and even buy it if you don't want to do the lending thing. The bike is on a sky hook with the front end off and riding season is here, right now!
Give him a call at 360-468-3123 if you have the piece he needs, or know of a magic trick that will work!
 
v65bill said:
Tried everything but nothing worked getting the upper race out of the head. The problem is there is not enough of the race exposed to actually drive it out using a long punch like works with every other bike in the world! Bob Rainey is doing the job on his 2005 and he's hoping one of you guys have had to buy one as they aren't available anywhere. He'll be happy to pay for shipping to and from and even buy it if you don't want to do the lending thing. The bike is on a sky hook with the front end off and riding season is here, right now!
Give him a call at 360-468-3123 if you have the piece he needs, or know of a magic trick that will work!
Click to expand...
You can weld a bead on the race and when it cools, it should come out easily. Other option is to make a cut across the race with a Dremel. I suppose you could gently heat the steering head as well. There may be other methods. You might see if a local shop would lend one. I have done that before. HTH
 
I have used the weld bead method with good success. Just be careful not to weld too much at a time or you will burn the paint off the frame outside the race at the weld bead locations.

The cooling weld helps shrink the race, but the main purpose is to give enough of a bump for a punch or drift to grab.

This photo is from doing my ZX600-C a few months ago, but it's the exact same headset as the C10
1000004394.jpg
 
Been there done that. Years ago found this tool at JB Tools. Works great and wasn't that expensive. Notice I said years ago so not sure if still available. If you strike out I would certainly loan it with a return please!!
 

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bowtie39 said:
Been there done that. Years ago found this tool at JB Tools. Works great and wasn't that expensive. Notice I said years ago so not sure if still available. If you strike out I would certainly loan it with a return please!!
Click to expand...
I saw some versions of that tool in the $50ish range on amazon and ebay. Some of them are marketed as intended for Harleys, but they look exactly like your photo, and that's the same as the illustration in the Kawasaki shop manuals.

When I did my last set, the amount of race projecting beyond the head tube was so very tiny, I wasn't sure how well a tool would grip, so that's partly why I just used the weld method. I already have a welder, so that was free too.
 
SethInIllinois said:
I saw some versions of that tool in the $50ish range on amazon and ebay. Some of them are marketed as intended for Harleys, but they look exactly like your photo, and that's the same as the illustration in the Kawasaki shop manuals.

When I did my last set, the amount of race projecting beyond the head tube was so very tiny, I wasn't sure how well a tool would grip, so that's partly why I just used the weld method. I already have a welder, so that was free too.
Click to expand...
I think the use on Harley's is what sold me:D When one wedges the right size chisel or even two in the gap it will not let is slip and is easily driven out. Seems back in the day they were less than 30.00
 
Thanks so much for your suggestion. Went on Amazon and ordered the OCT tool, it's still available! Bob is very HAPPY! Me too!
 
bowtie39 said:
I think the use on Harley's is what sold me:D When one wedges the right size chisel or even two in the gap it will not let is slip and is easily driven out. Seems back in the day they were less than 30.00
Click to expand...
The chisel to wedge between the two halves is a really clever idea! It should reduce chance of slipping quite a bit.
 
Pretty sure I used 2. A long one to drive and a shorter one to make it really snug.

Maybe 20 years ago COG had that tool plus a race driver that was a traveling set. Seems RevRyder kept it and would send it out to whoever needed it. Not sure whatever happened to the deal. After that first race fiasco I borrowed the tool and it worked like a charm. So I searched for something I could own and found the above. Also made a simple race driver from washers and all thread.
 
I did buy a race/seal driver kit recently, which I used for installing these races and some other things. Not the greatest quality, but sure is better than using random sockets and washers like I've always done before.

It was about $45 when I got it a few months ago. Looks currently unavailable, but there are lots of these on amazon/ebay/etc that are pretty much the same sold under different names.

 
Here's the magic trick that worked for me to get that upper steering head bearing outer race removed:

A 1 1/8" socket inverted on a 10" extension along with every mechanics favorite tool - a heavy 'removal encourager' (hammer).

The 'tool' fit up through the lower outer race which hadn't been removed yet (which is another area requiring its own special 'tool').

The socket engaged the entire upper outer race edge perfectly.

Other 1 1/8 inch socket OD's could vary in size, but mine worked slicker than snot on a doorknob.

1712661806780.png
 
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