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12-21 KAWASAKI NINJA ZX14R REAR SHOCK ON A C10?
- Thread starter Mercer
- Start date
I think a C-10 shock is 13 1/4" (??)
The biggest concern would be, the oil reservoir.
NOTE: The Rocker and shock is pointing backwards in the images that I looked at.
The oil reservoir mounts forwards on a ZX-14.
My OOps. The oil reservoir mounts Rearwards on a ZX-14.
Ride safe, Ted
The biggest concern would be, the oil reservoir.
NOTE: The Rocker and shock is pointing backwards in the images that I looked at.
My OOps. The oil reservoir mounts Rearwards on a ZX-14.
Ride safe, Ted
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Am thinking the .25 inch would be negligible perhaps. The spring spec and yes the reservoir position the issue.
Just could not envision the space it would occupy on a C10. So thought I would ask here.
In search box did not come up with anyone discussing this shock. Guessing your answer the reasoning. Thx Ted.
Bye de bye: Like my C14 shock conversion save for one issue. There is a hard hit on some types of bumps no matter my settings. Seems that it can be mitigated somewhat but not corrected by settings.
Here in Louisiana I ride some pretty sub standard roads. Might be expecting to much of the C14 shock conversion.
I suspect that others have seen the oil reservoir and were unwilling to invest the $$ for a shock that they assumed would not fit.
ie; There is a chance it might, but no one has tried.
At the recent National, my C-14 would occasionally hit me pretty hard.
I was thinking I needed to decrease pre-load, or damping. He felt that I had too little damping.
He was correct. (What I was feeling was the bike springing up, after I hit a certain type bump)
So, have you tried increasing the damping?
PS: In my earlier note I sed that the oil reservoir points forwards. I was incorrect. It faces rearwards.
Ride safe, Ted
ie; There is a chance it might, but no one has tried.
At the recent National, my C-14 would occasionally hit me pretty hard.
I was thinking I needed to decrease pre-load, or damping. He felt that I had too little damping.
He was correct. (What I was feeling was the bike springing up, after I hit a certain type bump)
So, have you tried increasing the damping?
PS: In my earlier note I sed that the oil reservoir points forwards. I was incorrect. It faces rearwards.
12-23 KAWASAKI NINJA ZX14 ZX14R Rear Swingarm AXLE SHOCK Swing Arm Suspension | eBay
12-23 KAWASAKI NINJA ZX14 ZX14R Rear Swingarm AXLE SHOCK Swing Arm Suspension.
www.ebay.com
Ride safe, Ted
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I ride a lot of substandard roads so I may be expecting too much from my C10 with a C14 shock.
Initially rode with clicker 3-4 turns from full soft and lower adjuster turned 1 .5 from soft. The what I would call high velocity
speed bump like defects in road surface would be excruciating to my spine with those settings. I would hit these as they would
be hidden in the shadows of the sun filtering through the tree canopy.
I for a long time was thinking it was a front fork stiction or some oil related issue. Finally ruled all that out totally.
Now when I am riding on good roads 22 turns in on clicker and 1 turn from all in on lower adjuster. On substandard roads go
to 20 turns or if real rough 18. This leaving lower adjuster at 1 from all in. This softens these high velocity impacts the most and best.
But they are still there though softened greatly.
These settings offer the best of performance and least severity of the spine jarring hits. You will note from prior discussions
between you and I the bike is undersprung with me at 300lbs.
For what it is worth my gut tells me with the firmmer clicker settings at 22 the front fork angle and rear shock linkage angle are
better in some fashion and this more than anything is what softens hard hit some what. You might also remember I have longer swing arm/shock arm connector to keep original ride height with C14 shock.
So to repeat for clarity: firmer settings the less hard the what I am calling the "high velocity harshness".
Will probably respring my current C14 shock this winter.
The reason was asking about the ZX shock is it is more modern tech and as well is all the more adjustable.
A ZX14 shock would actually be more frugal then the respring mention above. That if it's spring and more adjustability would suffice . That if could be fitted in space.
On looking would have to at very least move battery perhaps down and back.
PS: Quick question: What internally stops the upper and lower shock from being rotated independently of each other?
Spring pressure alone when out of mounting brackets or something else??? Curious for obvious reasons.
Thanks as always Ted!
Initially rode with clicker 3-4 turns from full soft and lower adjuster turned 1 .5 from soft. The what I would call high velocity
speed bump like defects in road surface would be excruciating to my spine with those settings. I would hit these as they would
be hidden in the shadows of the sun filtering through the tree canopy.
I for a long time was thinking it was a front fork stiction or some oil related issue. Finally ruled all that out totally.
Now when I am riding on good roads 22 turns in on clicker and 1 turn from all in on lower adjuster. On substandard roads go
to 20 turns or if real rough 18. This leaving lower adjuster at 1 from all in. This softens these high velocity impacts the most and best.
But they are still there though softened greatly.
These settings offer the best of performance and least severity of the spine jarring hits. You will note from prior discussions
between you and I the bike is undersprung with me at 300lbs.
For what it is worth my gut tells me with the firmmer clicker settings at 22 the front fork angle and rear shock linkage angle are
better in some fashion and this more than anything is what softens hard hit some what. You might also remember I have longer swing arm/shock arm connector to keep original ride height with C14 shock.
So to repeat for clarity: firmer settings the less hard the what I am calling the "high velocity harshness".
Will probably respring my current C14 shock this winter.
The reason was asking about the ZX shock is it is more modern tech and as well is all the more adjustable.
A ZX14 shock would actually be more frugal then the respring mention above. That if it's spring and more adjustability would suffice . That if could be fitted in space.
On looking would have to at very least move battery perhaps down and back.
PS: Quick question: What internally stops the upper and lower shock from being rotated independently of each other?
Spring pressure alone when out of mounting brackets or something else??? Curious for obvious reasons.
Thanks as always Ted!
I've never been inside a shock to know what prevents internal rotation.
May just be the preload of the spring that prevents rotation.
NOTE: I like the idea of the adjustability of a ZX shock. (as it also has compression damping)
But, a ZX-14 shock may be weaker springed than a Connie shock, as a ZX weighs less and doesn't have bags.
Ride safe, Ted
May just be the preload of the spring that prevents rotation.
NOTE: I like the idea of the adjustability of a ZX shock. (as it also has compression damping)
But, a ZX-14 shock may be weaker springed than a Connie shock, as a ZX weighs less and doesn't have bags.
Ride safe, Ted
Yep my thoughts too. Need some research. Might buy one for Christmas and see what might be done.
I like the length also to get linkage ratios back in line with C10 original design.
Kinda surprises me that more COGgers haven't got into the discussion. (??)
Guess folks don't like to tinker anymore.
Ride safe, Ted
Guess folks don't like to tinker anymore.
Ride safe, Ted
Just you and me aye? Naw it is just too hot and everyone is in siesta mode!
I have a small (very old / 1940) lathe, and access to a larger one.
But, I'm only a hobby machinist, so I have only limited capabilities.
What's on your mind?
Ride safe, Ted
But, I'm only a hobby machinist, so I have only limited capabilities.
What's on your mind?
Ride safe, Ted
Guessing 1940 is newer than my tech!
When I made my lower bushing for my C14 shock on a C10 did so with drill press, chop saw and file.
I used the stock C10 lower shock bolt as raw material. I had some drift with press or grease hole was not centered. and bolt hole is not centered to my liking.
Was thinking a lath would do better. Have some extra lower shock bolts. Do you have the capability to center drill them accurately?
In retrospect might would drill from opposite side of grease fitting hole perhaps.
When I made my lower bushing for my C14 shock on a C10 did so with drill press, chop saw and file.
I used the stock C10 lower shock bolt as raw material. I had some drift with press or grease hole was not centered. and bolt hole is not centered to my liking.
Was thinking a lath would do better. Have some extra lower shock bolts. Do you have the capability to center drill them accurately?
In retrospect might would drill from opposite side of grease fitting hole perhaps.
Saw online where someone reversed the orientation of top and bottom of shock by removing all spring tension or preload. There by being able to spin ends 180 degrees.
NEAT!
I’ve got a c14 rear shock. I lpaid $50 for it. I just want my money back you pay shipping. I ended up getting a progressive.
Justin u'd probably have more luck selling it by putting it in the c14 classified area.
Honestly done even care. I’ve got a crazy stash of c10 parts even a parts bike. Maybe I’ll try it out one day. Thought I would try to help if someone needed one though.
My point being someone who might need it will look for it in the classified section, as opposed to a thread about swapping rear shocks from a c14 to a c10....
Gotcha