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2 inch risres

hikenride

Big Wheel
I was flipping through a magazine or web sight I'm  not sure. I thought I saw somewhere 2 inch risers for a c-10. Anyone know where to get those?
 
I'm also in the market for them. and think this would work. hope this helps!! http://www.1cruiser.com/sa/p/Kawasaki_Concours_[ZG1000_(GTR)]_Handlebar_Risers.htm

Rob.
 
Heres a link to a set of 1 1/2" risers from a great guy who is active in our community

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=40
 
With lines that have to be extended. How big a job is it to install the 2" risers. Other that brake and clutch lines it seems there are 2 other electrical lines as well.
 
Genmar says you have to reroute your throttle cables (they tell you how) and put the included extension on your choke cable.  Then, of course, the new top front brake line (also included).
 
From Genmar


2 inch Risers for Kawasaki Concours
Installation Instructions


Fig1.
K205_i1.jpg


Fig2.
k205_i2.jpg



This installation will require that you change the top portion of your front brake line to accommodate the 2” risers.  The brake line and crush washers are supplied with the GenMar risers.  It is recommended that a licensed mechanic install the brake line to insure correct function of a crucial part of the motorcycle.  Therefore, we will not provide installation instructions for installing the brake line.

Remove the seat and gas tank before installation.

After the seat and gas tank have been removed from the motorcycle, the throttle cable will need to be re-routed.  Remove the throttle cables from the throttle housing on the handlebars (not from the carburetor). Pull the cables back through the frame to the ignition coils.  Run the cables back though the A shaped yolk in the frame on the right side to get the extra slack you need.  Refer to Fig.1 above for a visual of throttle cables routed through the A shaped yolk.  Reattach the cable to the throttle housing at the handlebars.

Next, install the choke cable extender bracket supplied with the riser kit. First, remove the screw that holds the stock choke cable bracket  on top of the carburetors. Remove the choke cable from the carburetors and attach our extension to the end of the stock choke cable.  The plastic two-part screw supplied with the kit will go into the existing choke bracket.  Refer to Fig.2 for a visual of the choke extender bracket installed.  Attach the stock choke cable bracket to the top of the carburetors.  There will be a little extra slack in the choke cable that will need to be adjusted out.  These adjustments can be made at the adjuster on the choke cable.


Remove the bars from top of fork crown, leaving controls in place. Loosen set screws on the side of each riser.  Place risers where the handlebars had been. When the risers are in place, the aluminum tube inside the risers will move upward so the handlebar can set over it as in stock form.


Place handlebar on top of risers and add longer bolts.  Tighten bolts and set screws. The handlebar mounting bolts and pinch bolt should be torqued to 14-16ft-lbs.


Reinstall gas tank and seat.
 
K205_i1.jpg


OH MY GOD....WHAT ARE THOSE HIDEOUS BLACK THINGS (with wires) ATTACHED TO THE FRAME :-\
 
2" risers...interesting.
I"ve got the 1 1/4 risers now and find i still get "tight" thru the back of neck and shoulders on longer rides.  (couple hundred miles)  Part of the issue could be the corbin seat which is putting me back a little further from the bars than the stock seat.  (but i find the corbin seat itself more comfortable)

Has anyone had similar issues and found the 2 " risers did the trick? I'd hate to spend the dough on the 2" risers if it would be better spent on one of the other solutions detailed here on the forums.

thanks
ian.
 
My shoulders and back have the same problem and I have 1.25" risers. Need more height but then I'll need a taller screen and a longer brake hose, and...Mo money mo money!!

Would like something that changes the angle of the grips and moves them back some as well as up more. For my old body, it's the angle of the hands, not the vibrations through the bars that makes my hands numb.
 
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